Bullet

My thoughts exactly...why in the world would you want to do that? That's like buying a mainframe computer to diagnose your commodore 64. It just doesn't make any sense...lol! Yes it can be done but why would you?

When I lived in Houston they would smog the gassers but no emission regs at all for diesels. They would check my blinkers and headlights and sticker me up for $13...while the gassers got the tailpipe treatment to the tune of $55. It was laughably ridiculous. Now that I'm out of the big city no emission regs here at all for any vehicles. Diesel trucks here get deleted soon after warranty or the first time they experience an emission related problem that costs money to fix. I imagine trading in a delete would be a problem here too but the market is so strong here that there's no problem selling for more than what a dealer would give you.

Lol...my definition of smoke is nothing else can be seen in your mirror. The trigger for exhibition of speed here is more associated with tire squealing. Some smoke is not a big deal here... there's alot of deleted and modded 4x4 diesels in TX. If I fogged out an intersection they might have a problem with it but I don't do that so I would never find out.

Oh yeah...96 model. I was thinking since mine has them. And of course it could be argued that I wasn't thinking at all.

Same here, load valve. Only other thing I could think of is corrosion on the rear caliper pins which would not allow the rears to fully disengage. Which would heat them up tremendously and lock fairly quickly when applied.

I started out with just 7x.010's and a Smarty...and with the Smarty on kill the smoke wasn't any kind of a problem for daily driving. Daily drove it like that all the time. Of course when I mashed on it, it would smoke but nothing like what it is capable of now with additional fueling and mods. Maybe our definition of smoke out an intersection is different. Because currently if I put the Smarty and TST Comp on kill or even moderately high settings, still with 7x.010's, I literally can create smoke density like I have never seen before...to the point of blacking out everything in the rear view mirror...up until the turbos spool of course. Of course I don't drive like that but that capability is there whereas it wasn't before with just the 7x.010's and Smarty as the only mods. But just going with 7x.009's as the only mod done to the truck is not a big deal and definitely not a problematic smoker.

Yes there wouldn't be any problem doing that. You will feel a mild bump in power by the seat of your pants-o-meter. There would be a little more smoke on a hard acceleration but not a lot. You won't be fogging out intersections or anything like that. Otherwise it would run clean under normal driving and be a little more peppy. You could even go up as high as 7x.010's or 150hp injectors with a similar effect. Tuners and/or fueling boxes (Quad, Smarty, TST, etc.) exaggerate the fueling and that's when you'll have the capability to roll coal. But more importantly tune it to get the more power with minimal smoke.

I think I would rather spend money on a stocker over s369 compound turbo setup ($2800ish) and 7x.010 injectors ($400-500ish) and headstuds ($435ish) and keep my 3.55's. Truck will spool fast with much more air and be a torque monster with much more power...and more bulletproofed and no more egt issues. Sounds like your transmission is already up to the task. The extra power (500ish hp) will help out towing tremendously. If you ever need a little more gear just hit the O/D OFF button and lock up your T/C. 4.10's will rev much higher at 70-75mph without a trailer even with 35's...around 2000-2200. Right now you are around 1600-1750 at those speeds. That's gonna reduce your mpg's a bit more.

Draining all the power out of the system is as simple as removing ALL 4 battery main wires from the battery terminals BEFORE touching the negative and positive main wires together on each side. It will complete a circuit without the batteries in the loop and use up the rest of the power in the system. DO NOT do one at a time or you will fry some stuff and have 2 problems on your hands. With that said I agree with the previous posters...sounds like you have a transmission problem that draining your system of electricity will not help.

Congrats on your milestone! She should be just about broke in now. After hearing how many miles you guys got mine feels like it's still brand new at 205k. As with yours @Evan, mine too has by far been my longest relationship.

Yes sir...humidity is a killer down here!

I would agree as well since your tires are a common size. It's a bit of trial and error with goofy size tires. Found that 44 in the fronts and 36 in the backs on 305/55/20's max 50psi load range E's got good ride quality without uneven wear...rotating religiously of course.

Hard to tell without seeing it on how much you have coming out. It's not as easy to add pics or videos as it used to be. I live in the hot south and mine will always smoke a decent amount out my open vent hose when the engine warms up...you can definitely see it well but it's not lingering around the windows or anything like that and I'm not losing oil. It's always hot down here so it's hard to tell if that has an effect. I positively do not have a vacuum leak.

I wonder the same. I figured since the mechanicals didn't come out til later and everyone had already spent a wod on upgrading to pre-mechanical electrics like FASS, Air Dog, etc, that they were reluctant to fork it out again. It's hard to find bad press about the fuel boss...most problems I ran across while researching were due to faulty installation. I'm a very happy customer as well!

Same here...if you screw up the slightest little bit you've lost my business forever. Some say I'm an a$$hole...to those people I say awww, thank you so much!

I was gonna say the exact same thing but since DAP sells it and is a vendor here I bit my tongue...or fingers since I'm typing.

Yeah ripping the dash out is a laborious job but nothing that a lot of time won't help. I would look there first if no leaks are visible under the hood. Your compressor sounds like it's OK...just got a leak somewhere.

Pretty much exactly what dripley said...more than likely the evaporator being that you can see everything else. Leaks are almost always at a connection point or pinholes in a corroded core. Mine does the exact same thing...I get a month out of a charge and no visible leaks. Soon I'll be making my own custom dashboard and console...everything dash related will be removed. I will address it then. Meanwhile I'm on a $3.99/month freon budget.

Did you mean to check and see if it's still working?

I run a 3 piece as well that came with my twins. Changed turbos at the same time I changed manifolds so can't really say on any difference in performance. But it spools my 62 exactly like my old hy did. I would advise changing to stainless studs instead of reusing the old manifold bolts...it makes the install much easier and cleaner looking.

Possibly a bad ground somewhere on the truck.

200 degrees is not quite redlining yet but constantly running at that temp will shorten the life span of your fluid and consequently your transmission. Ideally you want to run no more than 175-180 to keep it happy. I would look at the cleanliness and condition of your transmission cooler and fins...and inspect your fluid and coolant to make sure your heat exchanger isn't leaking and cross contaminating. Hard to tell on the turbo but it looks like it could be a super b special which is a 64.5 compressor wheel. If I'm correct on that then it would spool very similarly to what you described...a bit laggy down low. Anything over 62 is going to start introducing lag at increasing rates.

Yes...the standard kit comes with a Hobbs switch and the necessary fittings to plumb it in with the stock Carter pump in it's stock location as a backup and fuel filter housing primer. But I found it not necessary to have a backup or need help with priming. It's a solid setup on its own.

I wish mine only cost that much. I got the longarm bars for 6-10 inches of lift. They are cut out on a cnc machine and welded together with their logo cut out on the middle of each bar...they also come with new brackets cuz the arms are much longer than the stock bars. I had to cut the old bar mounts completely off the frame and grind them smooth. It's these... https://www.topguncustomz.com/i-25499454-long-control-arms-4-link-upgrade-2000-2002-dodge-ram-2500-3500-4x4.html?Session_ID=101746fcd666ceb1a8b6aac0cfbbf898

They are TGC's...I think that stands for top gun customs. About $1100 is what I gave for them.