pepsi71ocean

I'm really curious why you have the timing on stock. Your timing should be on #3, and being you have your SW so low you could also run timing on 4. You may find you run out of fuel quickly with the duration that low, when towing or running heavy boost. I find that what smarty posts on their website to be very anecdotal, when it comes to tuning of the smarty. Especially since the timing locks itself at about 18* of timing. The only change in timing is how much fueling you get before it pulls the timing back. Even so the relationship between timing and the SW number is inversely related.

Depending on who built the transmission you maybe starting in 2nd gear because the line pressure is to high. If you connect a line pressure gauge to your middle test port that would let us know what your transmission is seeing. Alternatively, you can unplug the electronics on the transmission to revert back to hydraulics and see if you start in 1st then. My built DTT transmission requires a voltage regulator to start in 1st gear. If i turn the voltage up to high (closer to 5v, it starts in 2nd.

Its been a while, but I don't think that the VP44 can jump a tooth or even in the gear housing. now if the key-way is in backwards, i can see that. However in order to check that you'd have to pull the cover. Have you put the truck in neutral when coming to a stop to verify that its not the transmission?

Glad you made it out the other side Mike!

Thanks for the info. Let me know how 315 does with your injectors. My first question is do you have an HX35 or an HY35 turbo? If you plan to get an exhaust brake I would highly recommend a turbo mounted one. The ones that go into the exhaust pipe are neat but take a while to build back pressure when braking, and tend to leak. In your case, if it can be fitted i would go with an hx40/35 swap. I do believe BD makes a larger turbo that will bolt onto their own exhaust brake that is larger then a 35w compressor wheel. I wouldn't doubt that this filter is the cause. These filters and other re-washable filters don't filter worth a poop.

This is a good plan as well. personally i would do a HX40/35 turbo rebuild. When you had those injectors rebuild what pop pressure did you set them to?

yes and no, i have places I get into and out of that are stupidly tight, I'll have to dig up some photos from Brooklyn Methodist hospital. Allot of the places i go to were built 100 plus years ago before we even had semi trucks. and running tanker sucks because my wheels are fixed at the back of the trailer as well. If I was using my dodge i would have cut the wheel and backed up to tighten the turn up, and spun the trailer. once you back up and cut the wheel and tighten your truck you can pull the trailer and it will tighten and drag your trailer. I know the maneuver you speak of growing up hauling boats since I was 16 I'm familiar with it, but for me 5th wheel or goose neck is superior in tight places when your driving in the city. Edited in what I found on my phone. The space on the driver's side to the fence. The passenger side is about the same. This place is very narrow. This is the space between the driver's side and the gate in reference to my welding gloves for work. And yes the truck is fully in the dock here that is the sidewalk the tractor is in the street. This is a shot aiming at the street, this is one of the larger places we get into, there's a scrap yard in northern Manhattan that sucks wise then here. I have to jump the curb on the other side to climb around because I'm too fat to get in between the truck and the gate. I'm not trying to get into a pissing match, but just showing that regardless of size, this wouldn't have been able to be done with a bumper pull, even my 1 ton dodge can walk circles around this thing when i run my 5th wheel since I learned how to do these turns at my job. NYC is a very unforgiving place! None of these hospital holes we go to here can i even get a 45 foot tanker into, let alone a straight job, this place here requires some really intricate maneuvering, let alone dealing with walkers and other cars jumping the street curbs to get around you.

I believe so, Its at low speed only on turns. I haven't heard any noise however when braking. But if it was from up front, it doesn't appear if you apply the brake pedal at all either.

I hear a clunking coming from what i hear is the rear of the car, not the front, but the customer is adamant its coming from the front. The only thing missing are the shims, and that fact that the glide bolt was seized. The car sat for 1.5 years before being driven again. I'll tell them that it should all be replaced, but what do you think else it could be?

I would be interested in knowing more about what you've discovered in your searches about this. I'm also looking into doing this with my 99 as well. Nothing forever but i needed a break from driving a semi truck in NYC all the time.

I have a DTT voltage regulator that changes the Governor pressure voltage. However the Pacbrake controller does have me cut and splice into that orange/Black wire on C2 connector. The brown wire from the Pacbarake controller runs to the PCM, the Orange goes back to the transmission side on the orange/Black. I'm assuming this controls lock up.

I beg to differ, I drive both a day cab and a sleeper in NYC and make deliveries. When you start bending your tractor to 270degrees, where your trailer is 4 inches from your cab you have allot of room to get around. I was taught by the best to button hook, and make hard turns in the narrow and tight streets of the shittiest corner of the USA, next the California haha NYC, Baltimore, Philadelphia, Scranton etc.

Out of curiosity, do you do hotshot work, or something that requires a C&C?

@Mopar1973Man this is the thread I was talking about over the phone the other day. I did a suction test on these with my lungs and that silver nipple is very restrictive indeed!

That's what I was thinking. It needs lower control arms and a unit bearing I think as well.

@Mopar1973Man check this out

Yes, but you can also exceed the turning radius of a bumper pull as well. If you need to make a hard turn you can back the truck past 90 degrees and walks the trailer forward this showing you to make that tight turn. You can't go past a 90 in a bumper pull for the same reason.

My thoughts on this are that if you are taught the right ways of driving in the tight streets then you can easily get around. I drive full size semi trucks into NYC almost every day for 3 years. You would be stunned to see how tight it can get up in there and how you need to work the truck to get around. Now I'm not saying go for the largest rv you can get your hands on, but there are allot of tricks you can use to get around tight corners and roadways. But when I bought my truck it came with an in bed camper back that head a great floor plan, they only made about 30 of these campers but stopped due to the fact that they were so heavy. I so wish I didn't sell it now. For me I would buy either an in bed camper, or a 5wheel because you can really get into tight places with that 5wheel that you can't get into with a regular bumper pull.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-non-powertrain/197561-putting-bed-cab-chassis.html#/topics/197561 I'm unsure what to make of this, but if that is true you can totally as in a huge fuel tank behind the bunk. It would be interesting.

So I went to do a brake job on a Honda CR-V with over 227,000 miles on it. And the customer had a brake noise coming from the front end. The issue I found was that the drivers side caliper had a frozen glide bolt. And on top of that the shim was slid all of tthe way down on one side. I've never seen this in 15 years doing brake jobs, and I'm almost sure it was done on purpose. So now the car makes a clunking nose because the pads are now lose inside the brackets, but I found that these calipers are original to the car. I figured you guys would find this interesting. I put the brake system back together and I told them that they should really consider replacing the calipers/rotors/pads/and soft lines as I question their integrity. I priced this all out on RockAuto with coated rotors for less then $300 after cores were returned. The customer is more concerned about the current clunking noise created, even thought I told them that they are safe ... they think that something will break because the pads are now loose in the brackets. But the core concern here is the brake calipers failing due to age. Anyways this one is the most miles I've seen on a OEM caliper in my life! I would also note that is just a little of the rust inside the cup, as more of it was falling out as i pulled the caliper up off the pad. Before I decided to take this photo, I knocked allot of it out. The rust was trapped behind the brake shoes. It was quite interesting in over 14 years of doing brake jobs I've never seen a piston so degraded with rust. But that's Jersey for you. What do you guys think?

I'm unsure, but I thought with it came to the second generation they were the same minus the bed?

Truck is on its 3rd VP at 126,000. I had to go back on my fuelly app to see. 1st was at 44k(when I bought the truck) the rotor seized on the pump. 2nd was at 78k(it was a checzh rebuild, and was leaking out the front seal shaft. eventually it failed with the timing piston in one position, and would smoke like a bear, and idle high in the cold.

Thanks for the read, since I have a pacbrake with a controller, I'm wondering if that would interfere with this switch?

Sorry I'm just seeing this. My mpg didn't change, however it's been getting worse over time. I suspect this is due to hanging brakes, a worn unit bearing, and several fuel leaks I've discovered under the Dodge. Just so Mike can appreciate some Jersey rust, this is the war I've been waging. So for me I can't say it went up, but I can go based on how the truck was running before I downed her for this massive job. The performance, stupidly fast low end spool, lack of smoke, and even my transmission shifting patterns were all different. She was a totally different truck once she settled down. The first 15 starts were goofy, but she's always started, and I'm really excited to see how she runs once it's back together. This puppy was seized in there. This one the passenger brake was constantly sticking and I was seeing 450f with a temp gun, there wasn't any grease left in her when I took her out. Mine is very quiet now compared to before I got them popped. I can't give you a scientific answer, but warm at temp she's quite quiet. Even cold you can see in my video how quiet it idles. I have too look and see but I may have a video with some idling with the lower pop pressure injectors in it.

So can I ask what you did to get that green light to work? What wires do I have to tap into for that?