pepsi71ocean

Can I ask what pop pressure they were at, what you set them to, And anything else you noticed, things like turbo lag, or smoke, spool up. and if there is any mpg difference? I noticed you have twins?

So far only positive ones. But some have reported stalling issues when in hot weather. But so far this is not something I have seen.

You have a manual, I believe it will be easier for you to run higher pop pressures then me, being i have a built auto. I would say 320 should be good for you, My 100's I wish i popped higher to 325. But If you do get them repopped, please let me know what the side effects are, and drivability issues as I'm writing up an article for this for future use.

Because you need to pop them mechanically to a higher pop pressure.

Which is why they are clean as ever, and this truck idles so smoooooooooooooth.

being you have 250HP injectors I would look into the pop pressure. Being your Injectors are so high i would consider popping them into the 330bar range. For me the black smoke and hesitation i had was complete gone. I popped mine to 322bar from a mean avg of 280 bar. that's a 42 bar increase. I would at the least get them popped.

I agree above, but i would also point out that unless you increase your line pressures an exgine brake will not help you much. Make sure you have the line pressures adjusated so that your braking power from the exhaust brake is making its way into the transmission.

What are your pressures at the test port in D with O/D off at 1,800 rpm? While 59 is barely in the acceptable rage, you should be closer to 75psi at idle. and in the 140-160psi range at 1,800rpm. 55 is stock by the way. Now I should also add that line pressures should also be adjusted based on engine HP as well. If your pushing 400HP you should see 160 to 180psi. 3rd gear seems to get abused and fails as much as the O/D units do. but Since your truck has a built transmission then i suspect we need to check these before moving further into the valve body. How is your TV cable settings? does the truck downshift at all? Im wondering if your valves aren't set right on the pressure side.

What are your line pressures inside the valve body? I wonder if they installed the shift spring wrong.

Did you change the output shaft sensor on the transmission? Or at least clean up the sensor? The next step is electronics, and then the last is to verify your line pressure. While the 1-2 shift is indeed hydraulic it is done so via the line pressure, and either the GPS or the TV cable can force that shift. Most of the time with a shift kit in it or higher line pressures you need to solder in a resistor into the wiring to fool the PCM. Or so I have understood it. I could be wrong.

Questions: 1. Did you check your brush pack and the slip rings? 2. is it waiting to shift from 1 into 2?

This is quite experimental. I will say that I have stalling issues with my auto currently, however I'm in the process of trying to determine if it is the injectors, or an issue with the transmission. There is a noticeable difference overall in the truck in both noise and performance. I'm also in the process writing up a thread about this. Now as @Mopar1973Man stated my injectors were currently popping off between 280 and 286 bar. All were set to 322 bar. Now 280 bar is 4,061psi and I re popped them 322@4,670psi. That is a huge difference in pressure. And that difference means that not only are you delaying the open your shortening the duration as well. Were unsure of the loss in flow rate for an injector so I know i have 100hp injectors at 300bar(the stock pressure when i got them about 34,000 miles ago) Raising your pop will offset your mechanical timing, the engine will still pop off based on what the ECM and the VP thinks, however the offset is hidden from the computer. What i don't know and have yet to get any answers is what is the timing offset by raising the pop pressure. Now the common consensus is that each 10 bar is roughly a 1 degree change of timing. Unless you have a programmer to change it yourself the ECM will command and pull timing based on the tables in the ECM. changing your injectors is a mechanical change, and the ECM won't know of it.

I believe that should be 5v correct @Mopar1973Man

Which wire are you speaking of? The alternator can produce between 13.4 and 14.8v DC normally when commanded by the PCM. But the AC sign wave is what is of concern. Have you attempted to drive there truck with the alternator un hooked?

You should also load test your ground cables starting from the block and going to the batteries. I've had three dodges with failing ground cables on drop test also burn up alternators. Most of them were just the driver's side that were failing. One had both. Mine was also just the driver's side that was borderline when my truck started eating alternators every 3 months.

I have had issues with the fass for live developing cracks, ironically it started leaking a week before I managed to wrap my whole filling and harness around the front driveshaft. I replaced it with marine grade fuel line. Then I chased it with crinkle tubing.

Have you looked at this article?

They are on the list of reliable builders, I'd be hard pressed to think that there's is something wrong with almost a dozen positive rebuilds down.

Can you expand on this? Usually pulling the trans plug will force the valve body to run without electronics, so you should have 1-3. If your live pressure is to high you will start in 2nd gear which will cause a dragging feeling. Did you try to stay the truck in manual 1 position and see if it drives better, you'd have to shift to manual 2 when you hit ~15mph.

I would think that if it works for 3 says it should work non stop, unless something inside is marginal? Can I ask who you got it from? And if it was a rebuild? If so I'd like to add them to my report on Verified Rebuilders.

Is the ecm from the same vintage year? I know the wiring changed from year to year on the VP trucks

Question, when you swapped out the bodies did you also swap over your wiring? I would put your truck into manual 1 and see how it accelerates, I'm thinking your limp mode because it doesn't like the wiring.

Jacobb, I shipped them out today, the post office said Monday for arrival. I wanted to know what the pop pressure is current then after, so I can compare. And if there's a way to overnight then back to have them by Thursday then that would be great.

I'm running .008 and .018 , and I'll let you know what they are when I readjust them. I have no complaints other then the truck runs warm egt wise. Although I'm getting my injectors popped and set to 320 so we will see

What are you setting your valves to? If your new to swapping injectors I have a video article in the database. The way I do it usually never leaks.