pepsi71ocean

That's not normal. My truck has a very tight converter, I can go from 150 to 230 in Drive at a light. Put it in neural and she barely creeps. When you build your trans did you replace your converter? I'm wondering if your converter wasn't in lock up and was slipping to much.

@Me78569 and @Mopar1973Man I can be of use on the site as well if needed.

Oh shoot Mike, that's rough. I'm sorry to hear that. I hope that things go well. Your a major figure in allot of people's lives. I hope that you get better after the operation, and to comment, even my dad (35 year Doctor) doesn't agree with big pharma. There's much to that as well. Even for me when I blew out that disk in my spine, all of that oxycodone they gave me may have taken the pain away, but I still think I'm missing some parts of my brain from that stuff. If you need anything you can reach out to me in Jersey. I'll do what I can over the next month or two.

I would part a photo so we can look at the turbo compressor. As for checking for leaks you can build a boost boot. It is basically a 4" PVC pipe cap with an air nozzle on it that you can pressurize. I use the regular on the compressor to turn the pressure up. If there is a leak you'll hear it by 20/25psi it so.

Dam when I head back up there this weekend I'll have to check them out. Do you live locally?

I'm going to disagree with the consensus here and think you should check your grounds. I had a truck up here throw 252(251, maybe), and it was a ground cable that came loose. Since you've replaced the VP I'm going to say that this is possible. If it was Injectors I would think that he should have stalling at idle reguardless if he started it up.

So I'm up here at the truck and I wanted to shoot some photos to show what I'm dealing with. You can see in the photo the baby silver nipple that is too screw into the filter. I feel sad for this compressor because it really is struggling to pull that air thought that. So I went to Napa and picked up some larger fittings as you can see are the same size. This last photo shows the diameter I'm dealing with. I have my firewall opened up and I plan to put the dryer here. Even the smaller check valve has a larger hole then that baby valve. Really has me stumped.

Ironic you mention this. This is with my Smarty on SW5, TM4-T4-D3.

Is this lawrenceville NJ or GA?

I suspect we may have another one to add to the list. It sucks that this happens with peoples money and time, but I'm glad we're adding to it constantly.

I would also second this, and take a look on the inside of the down pipe. Make sure your not leaking oil, because your asking for a run away if that happens!

Hopefully I'll have the truck back and running by February. We rarely get much below 15-20F here maybe in the dead of winter in Febuary. Bull I'll totally get the truck up to PA and do some testing with this smarty.

Maybe its a VE pump?

My turbo looks like that when she needs an oil change.

The concern I have is that the Tank placement is under the passenger side on the frame rail. And Up here I'd rather not run water through my pacbrake, solenoids, and tank and possibly other things like tires etc. Its just peace of mind.

I thought I would post this here. Yes it was 45 out when i shot the video, but that morning when i got there it was in the low to mid 30's and the block was still cold.

The location that the pac compressor fits is in the passenger battery tray, and there is a bracket that hangs the compressor off inbetween. the main issue is that the location for the intake, the intake filter, solenoid etc is on the compressor and IMO isn't a good space for all of it. I wish i could have found a vacuum actuated version. I would have made it allot easier to install and play with I believe.

So I've been wring in my PacBrake into my dodge and i want to install a dryer into the system. But I'm have problems with designing and then where to buy the parts to do this. Does NAPA carry this stuff, or where do you guys go to pick up air line fittings and hose for trucks? The set up that Pacbrake has may work great in Arizona, but up here in NJ and PA I don't need frozen lines on an exhaust brake.

I'm in between Reading PA, and Atlantic City area in NJ. Yea were not New England eithger, darn red coats! haha

My 99 as set up in my signature can haul up and down the 4-6% grades like a beast. But when i first bought the truck I was in the right lane with my 4-ways on because i couldn't climb hills worth a darn. These in stock form can't haul in O/D for anything.

The consensus among the guys who did a few repops on their injectors for the raised injector testing saw an average of 10 bar over the first 5,000 miles or so. So while some hard starting or stalling may exist, the issues will lessen. Even for me at 320 bar the first few times the truck stalled was hard, but after a week of driving the issues went away. Although, i still suspect I have transmission issues, so i can't say that is why I had stalling issues since the truck doesn't stall in manual 1 or reverse.

I'm unsure why you see these wild swings, I didn't see them here, even in PA winters. Maybe its just the tstat you got?

I bought my 200F stat from Dodge using the VIN off of our 08 dodge. I haven't seen the box in years but it was a Cummins part# under the label. But my first open every cycle is a huge swing. after that every cycle is 197-202. first one always opens around 208. BUT this is based on my SCII.

I second this! A 40 bar drop is even more then my 20 bar drop over 33,000 miles.

I use my smart phone and turn on the light and take a video, and move the phone over the hole, and look at it. Sometimes my injectors don't sit all the way down at first, and I lube up the Injector O rings and use the valve cover bolt to give it a love tap and she will seat. Its best to torque the crossover lines first before tigtining the lock bar on the injector top. But always rememebr to loosen the blue colored lock bars that hold the injector lines first, high pressure leaks are a ***** to diagnose, its best to avoid them in general.