pepsi71ocean

Hey Guys, <<For a List of vendors who have supplied junk parts or didn't stand behind their products....see the bottom of the article.>> pepsi71ocean here. I decided to finally write this article up after another round of people with issues with reman companies. So a while ago back in 10/2015 I shorted out my PCM with a botched rebuild on my Alternator(I forgot to add a sealing washer!) As a result, after replacing the defective alternator I still had no charging on the alternator. I went hunting for a re builder for my PCM. I was quoted almost $800 for a new blank from Dodge, and that didn't include programming. A friend of mine on Facebook who runs a Diesel Rebuild shop in the Midwest forwarded me this company here. <<List of Verified and Reliable PCM/ECM Re-builders>> I have put the company in table format, but If you have another one you used then message me and I'll add the Info. Verified Re-builder Website Telephone Number of Rebuilds Type 1. Autocomputer Specialist https://autocomputerspecialist.com/ 1-954-513-8359 64 PCM-ECM-TIPM 2. Diesel System Services http://www.blacksmokin.com/ 1-619-749-6226 5 ECM 3. Reman Auto Electronics https://www.remanautoelectronics.com/ 1-855-466-6938 2 ECM 4. Crites Car Computers <pending clarification> https://www.critescore.com/ 1-800-900-3267 1 ECM 5. ECM Repair 1 http://www.ecmrepairs.com/ 1-800-737-0915 7 ECM-ABS? 6. SIA Electric http://siaelec.com/ 1-800-737-0915 1 ECM 1. AUTOCOMPUTER SPECIALIST: I was referred to them by my friend Stanley. In the end I believe the price for the rebuild was about $350. I called them, they emailed me the form to fill out with a brief description of the problem, then shipped my PCM to them. And when they opened it up they also sent me a photo and let me know what the issue was. Now they also gave me the list of possible wire issues, but I also knew that I was almost sure it was a botched alternator rebuild that I did on the one NAPA alternator. Here is the photo they sent me below. Total Turn time for me was 5 days and that included the shipping to and from their place in Florida. PCM Rebuil by ACS at 118,506 Miles 11/2015 ACS Repaird a TIPM for a Chrysler200 1/2019 ECM Rebuilt by ACS at 165,406 Miles 10/2021 Current odometer is 201,505 5/10/2023 I also sent out my ECM o be rebuilt in Ocober of 2021, wih 140,000 miles on the truck. I had an another alternator start to go south. To date I know of 4 other Dodge Cummins trucks running rebuild PCM's Although Stanley said he has sent out a dozen PCM/ECM's to them over time for customers from his shop, and that includes some medium duty stuff. UPDATE: 2. Diesel System Services: Referred by mopar1973member Bobalos. Main contact at DSS is Steven Bruce.. He used to work for Cummins. Member has verified ECM still runs. 3. Reman Auto Electronics: Referred by mopar1973member GSP7. Reman Auto Electronics is a subsidiary of Flight Systems Electronics Group. Recommendation by Cummins Fleet Mechanic as well. 4. Crites Car Computers: Referred by mopar1973member Ho$$. Currently I am seeing confirmation that it is not Crites Core Company, Inc. 5. ECM Repair 1: Referred by CumminsForum member indy1k, and 6. SIA Electric: Referred by CumminsForum member chansey NOTES: If you do send me a company, name the number of miles/years you have on your rebuild, and if they were easy to work with or not. If you could a short summary would be good as well. ---------------------------------------------------------------- <<From here below is a list of vendors who have failed to supply good product, or didn't stand behind their product>> Below here is a list of Vendors/re builders that have supplied problematic rebuilds, and have not made attempts to rectify the problem. I didn't have to do much searching online to discover lists of complaints. Re-builder Website Telephone #Complaints FlagShipOne(NY) http://www.fs1inc.com/ 1-516-766-2223 More then one 24 All Computer Resources(FL) https://store.allcomputerresources.com/ 1-866-699-5230 2-1(one guy bought here who didn't have issue) Automotive Scientific Inc. https://www.autoecu.com/ 1-866-983-6688 4 Carcomputer Exchange https://carcomputerexchange.com/ 1-888-875-2958 1 A-1 Cardone http://www.cardone.com/ 1-888-280-8324 12 Auto Computer Exchange https://www.autocomputerexchange.com https://www.autocomputerexchange.net 1-800-680-4275 8 NOTES: All Computer Resources(FL): One member has bought from here with no issue as of 12/16/2018. However they still have one negative review. I hope this list will help people avoid a potential nightmare in dealing with computer issues in the future. UPDATED 05/10/2023 by John Armstrong Jr. Revision 2.2 View full Cummins article

Now the smoke output your saying is based on your trucks programming with the Quad. I'm fairly close to sea level, at least when I'm not in Reading PA.

Your truck is doing the exact same thing that my built auto does. I have to constantly shift the truck manually in order to keep smoking under control at 30/35 mph when I feel it should be in 3rd or even 2nd. I don't exactly buy the the tight torque converter theory, mainly because I fail to see the reason for the truck to run around in 4th gear at 30 And despite this, It will eschew my smarty testing.

Is your boost elbow adjustable? is it possible that the adjustment screw moved?

I've never had issues with that shifting too soon. But like when I'm traveling around at 25-30 mph I can downshift into "2" when towing and have no issues with spool up or smoke control. But I believe and @Dynamic could confirm that leaving the O/D button locks out 4th completly, and thus the truck drives around in 3rd. This is what my truck does. When empty i was leaving it in drive and the truck would run around unlocked in 3rd even down into the 25mph range. Which is why I had smoke issues, like you. This is true. But even closer to stock I think is only in the 2,100 rpm range?

You have a boost leak, Or something is broken/out of tune. Even with the stuff in my signature I can still pick up and move 10-14k without issue. This was over 7,000lbs of stone in the truck bed.

But I see less smoke in your video's, which leads me to believe that you could see better pre boost spool up (I think)?

My truck stacks shifts like this as well. I have hit O/D off at 30 mph and felt it shifting. I'm curious if @rogerash0 has tried manually shifting the valve body. I have started doing this and have zero smoke now. Even at 25mph the truck drives around in 3rd, unless I put it in "2". I should mention that my TV cable is set so that the TV lever moved with the engine rpm, not with lever movement. Even so range of motion is still limited by the Apps sensor, not the TV lever reaching 100%

I find this thread interesting @Me78569. I'm tempted to pull and send out my 100's to Jacobb and have them set up to 330 bar just to see the effects it has with the smarty. I think that increasing pressure would retard timing a bit, allowing me to have better atiomization on T3. Can you confirm this with the Quad, that upping the pop retards the ignition slightly. This is about as smokey as my dodge is running 0-65 pedal to the floor. I'm really curious. I will have to get this starter fixed and do some Roll testing maybe later this week when my ankle clears up.

First, Have you unhooked the alternator to confirm that the alternator is indeed the cause? Second Shutter can be caused by to much torque management provided by the smarty, this is why I refer the previous. Also, any bench test done by a shop included AC from the actual test machine, I've seen Alternators test a .4 on the machine, and on my truck it tests .2 on my Fluke Meter. A VDrop test is much better to test on these, and I have noticed a trend of failing Drivers side ground cables causing TC lock up issues. Mike should be able to chime in correctly, but I believe that you use your voltmeter on the voltage setting, and put the positive probe on the engine, and the ground on the battery ground post. the difference should be noted. here is the article Link

I will advise this, that my truck was having random TC lock up issues before the alternator blew up. And at the time growing up on the shore I noticed the fog, and rain made it worse. headlights on, made it worse. Now I did replace the rectifier and it did it still but not as bad. Ended up testing the ground cables with a vDrop test, and discovered the passenger cable was good, but the drivers cable was borderline failing. Replaced both cables and the issue went away. I also replaced the reman alternator with a New Denso alternator from the local dodge Dealership.

I tested from the grid intake studs, and measured this way?

This is most interesting. Has anyone thought about doing the dashboard with it?

This sounds like a is a valve body issue, If you push hard on the pedal then lift up on it does the truck shift? I think this is a line pressure issue. shuttle shift is common with built automatics, but requires a different way adjust it. Your adding grounds from the battery to the alternator, i would do a voltage drop test on both the drivers and passenger side ground cables, and I'm not talking to just the connections, but the actual cable itself. I had a failing drivers side battery ground cable, and that was causing excessive noise onto the passenger battery, replacing both cables for me did fix my TC lock up issues.

The theory here is that the truck worked fine for the first 10 years of its life, adding grounds is most likely only a band aid fix for another underlying problem. Check your battery ground cables, mine were going bad, but still passed a voltage test, failed the vDrop test, and it was only the drivers side cable, passenger was passing. However replacing both grounds (the whole cable from engine to battery) did resolve my TC lock up problems.

Actually, the ABS and the alternator went at the same time, I was the first person on the phone when it failed. You also must understand that a manual transmission truck doesn't exhibit signs of A/C blow by like an automatic will. With that being said, i do believe Mike is also on his 2 or 3rd alternator, so you can also wonder how much blow by was emitted before on the previous alternators. Even after extensive testing on my truck it still took me a while to alleviate the issues after 4 reman alternators, that failed, but later passed after the source of the A/C was found(bad drivers side ground cable). As for longevity, i don't see much of an issue at all Hawkez, we have several semi trucks that have 700,000 plus miles on them with advanced electronics and more computers then i could throw a stone at. I don't worry that in the proper environment that a ECM/PCM/ABS computer will not stand the test of time. Scan Gauge 2 does fairly good with most live data feeds. Althought my brother has a bluetooth that reads and follows live data. My concern is which speed sensor is the computer picking up. the one on the rear diff, or the transmission mounted one.

I advise to no end the load testing of your ground and battery cables, My passenger was fine, but my drivers side was marginally passing. In the end the cure to my lock up issues was the ground cables. I replaced both to be safe, even thought just the drivers side was bad.

i lifted my tank off the ground when i measured and cut for my draw straw. My straw is barely a quarter's depth from the bottom of the tank, and i also cut some squares into my straw as well. After some time and fear i also bent my sending unit a bit so that 1/8's a tank is about 28 gallons. which leaves me about 2.5 inches in the tank, so far I've yet to have issues on hills, but i fill up at 1/4 tank anyways which is a but less then 24 gallons. hope it helps, but either way, best to replace your sender.

https://autocomputerspecialist.com This is the Company that I used, and was referred to by a guy i know who has bought several rebuilt ones. They rebuild your ECM/PCM not send you one in a box. They were quick, and i had mine turned in a week or so. and it was not expensive either.

IMO, when charging the AC system, it is best to blow it down, and pull a good vacuum on it, and charge it back up with a new charge of oil added to it. When properly charged i stop when i can run the motor at +/- 2,300 rpm's, with the compressor NOT cycling, but staying on. Provided you don't have a leak you should be good, if you do have one and it is small then just add a can of straight Freon here and there, but after about 7 or 8 cans it is best to pull it down and replace your compressor oil again. What i find is you want to keep your low side around 32/35psi and your evaporator should stay above freezing. The compressor, and manifold gauge and t tap was about $250 total, well worth the effort if your mechanically inclined.

best to also pick up a set of slip rings as well, as that will eat a brush very quickly.

Yes it is the hard line, I ended up using a T fitting and it has compression fittings on it. Once it set up, it was good, but torquing the fittings was a bit. I brought that up when I built my transmission, but they told me the double deep pan would give me cooler readings then the output line, which is coming right from the transmission. So So i can only wonder if Dynamic is talking about normal or double deep pans?

I also have a tap on my mag pan. But i don't use it, i get my temp from the output line.

the pinch side of the connector is on the pigtail side, not the alternator, it just is a simple set of metal probes that go to the charging field circuit. At least on the Denso ones.