LorenS

That ECM will have racked up some serious frequent flier miles!

I'm afraid I don't know, just that it's supposedly by the ECM. Your method of starting at the ECM (or elsewhere) and removing loom is what I'd do. Personally, whatever I opened up I'd just replace with new since it gets all brittle.

The Calculated Load also jumps. Causation or correlation I have no idea. The video starts with the ECT at -40 and the engine is at 0% load, then jumps to 16 and even 20% later in the video. As said a few months ago, that S165 needs to be checked. It may just be that only the ECT sensor's wire is loose and the others are fine, etc.

BlueOx01 was the first on this forum, I believe, to go down this road. Then @dripleyand I each purchased one of these turbos: https://www.benzforce.com/products/new-genuine-holset-he351w-4043980-4043982-he351?_pos=2&_sid=70ca892e5&_ss=r I've been running it over a year with the wastegate just wired shut because I have yet to do the modifications that BlueOx01 did to the actuator arm... I'll try to search the site for the thread(s) where this was addressed and post the link. EDIT: here's the link to the actuator are modification The turbo comes with a band-style downpipe attachment, but if your truck has the "snout" style like mine does, it's a simple operation to swap it over as it's the same 5-bolt attachment. This turbo DOES need to be clocked a little different. This gave me fits when trying to do it myself, but with a buddy (or if you buy the correct - and GIANT - snap ring pliers) it's pretty easy.

May be a good application for some 3/0! At $13/foot list price I'd be shopping around... https://remybattery.com/3-0-gauge-battery-cable.html

Couldn't that just be extended? A guy would want to use a gauge or two heavier, perhaps, but I can't see that having a large amp draw, and thus minimal voltage drop. It's an RTD or similar, right, and relies on change in resistance due to temperature to measure the temp? Would be milliamps, I'd think.

Hopefully the Everstart brand maintains the same level of quality now that the actual manufacturer is under new ownership. https://hotvehs.com/who-makes-everstart-batteries/

Hard to go wrong with either the NAPA or a Stant, who very well may make the NAPA units. About $13 on RockAuto. I like the Stant SuperStat, but they also make the Safety-Stat that fails open versus failing closed. NAPA also carries that safety style.

First, happy belated birthday! Second, have a marvelous time next week, it sounds like a fantastic experience.

For anyone reading this in the future, my truck (likely stock steering gear) required a 3/16" hex key and 5/8" wrench. Either a stubby or ratchet-wrench would've made this project super easy.

I wish there was a "shocked" option along with the Like, Confused, Thanks, etc. options!

The Bosch part numbers for the SO vs. HO injectors are different, but I do not know if there are differences in pop pressure, nozzle spray setup, etc. Don't the HO units ramp up injection faster? Do they inject later (retarded) when there would be higher cylinder pressure and temperature? That could lead to NOx issues with emissions but give better performance - were HOs available in California? Also a louder rattle, which maybe they wanted to avoid in SO motors for noise and harshness reasons... just thinking "out loud" here. DAP, Me78569, and AH64ID (along with others) would likely be some of the best equipped to answer these questions. EDIT: just confirmed that he pop pressures are the same, at 300 BAR, -0, +14 BAR. Per BOSCH Application Guide 15091457 I have (dated October 2015). HO injector number is 0 432 193 581. SO injectors numbers end with 629 (manual trans) or 630 (auto trans). This is regardless of year. 275 HP injectors are 0 432 193 635, same pop pressure.

On Monday I took my alternator into the local shop and he called me yesterday to tell me it was just worn out. He showed me this morning the brushes were virtually gone and the slip rings were worn down almost 1/8” (radius). Why I didn't take photos I don't know, other than I really needed to be on my way to work after just buying a new one from him. I asked him it he thought it could be the OEM unit, and he said almost certainly. Not bad life at 346k miles! I put the last +70k miles on it. SURELY at some point it was rebuilt, or maybe someone swapped in a unit from a salvage truck; the little plastic cover has the Chrysler symbol on it.

Sorry to hear that ended, they seemed to really make you happy in lots of your posts.

Are the Xotic studs holding up well for you? Are you over 40k miles on them now? I imagine you now have a LOT of miles on your HE351W, are you still happy with it? I still haven't fixed the wastegate actuator on mine

I don't have a horse in the race, either. However, dealers do. Perhaps it'd be best to call one or two. There are two more dealers in KY, and the 2nd closest dealer to Maryville, TN is in Georgia, near Atlanta. CT Diesel Performance 4130 Simpson lane Richmond, Kentucky 40475, United States Ph: 859-699-8712 Fax: Website:CT Diesel Performance chris@ctdiesel.us M-F 8:00am – 5:00pm

I guess at only 42 I'm still willing to learn from both the failures AND the successes of others. Considering these have zero moving parts and are far from cutting-edge technology, I guess I don't really understand how much customer service could possibly needed. But, it's your money and I certainly can't fault anyone's choice to choose American-made, long standing company reputation and great customer service. Here is the link to BlueOx01's Xotic post:

Lots of people run these. I believe BlueOx01 does, and he uses his truck for work. I've never actually heard a negative thing about their product that easy purely speculation. If my cylinder head ever comes off, I will likely go back with Xotic studs.

I hear ya. But, I'm glad to not have meat locker conditions consistently, nor are the mosquitoes going to hatch anytime soon! Every June I pray for a quick jaunt down to 10 degrees to knock them down. Of course, that would decimate the breadbasket of the US, so I hope the good Lord knows I'm joking...

Pretty sure those have fusible links as the first bit of wire - or my truck has been retrofitted by a PO, who knows. If you really want them in the PDC, I'd put them on the "power in" stud, aka upstream of the fuse. Upgrading to 2 gauge since you already have it seems like a "might as well", but not really needed. The grid heaters aren't on for long unless it's really cold - and really cold temps will help keep the wire cool.

Got 6” of snow last Thursday, was about 70 degrees yesterday afternoon, and will be about 9⁰ tomorrow morning in Kansas City. Boo!

The lockup is just a wire to a solenoid/piston to apply the clutch in the torque converter. You can put a toggle switch on the dash and make it lockup at your pleasure. I believe it's the orange and black wire - confirmed it's wire K54 on the Factory Service Manual page 8W-31-3. Right or wrong, in my mind I assume it's like an electric PTO on a garden tractor. This is wrong. Page 21-778 says how it is done. The TCC solenoid (operated by wire K54) controls "venting" of the hydraulic fluid to the TCC; when vented, the clutch is disengaged. This seems strange to me as written, if it's a Normally Closed solenoid. That would mean if the wire was broken (or eaten by a squirrel...) that the converter could never unlock. I would think applying power to the solenoid would operate it, allowing fluid to apply the clutch - but my thoughts on automatic transmission sequence of operation is of zero (or even negative) value!

I haven't really looked into it, but I thought the PCM was "upgraded" or something with better logic/capability/what-have-you to allow it to utilize 3rd gear lockup. The FSM says the PCM allows it under certain circumstances, then gives as an example the OD being switched off - I have not yet looked for what other circumstances may or may not exist. And for all I know, they other instances may only apply to those equipped with gas engines. Would be interesting to find out, but not sure how much use it would be to me! Just for knowledge sake.

I would have sworn this changed around 2000 or 2001, but I don't remember ever looking it up in the manuals, either. Hopefully I can find some time in the next few days to research it before I completely forget about it...

I really thought my truck was driving awful lately (since the rodents ate my wiring) and sure enough, it was terrible! I hadn't noticed they chewed through the signal wire, since it was severed RIGHT at the firewall. Hopefully yet another splice has resolved the final issue and I can be back to Level 3. Not sure how I ever drove this truck without the Adrenaline! My old 6.2L GM diesel with 3.08 gears at least FELT faster (K5 Blazer).