CSM

Depending on how rusted the bearing is, at least on the 4x4, you may end up replacing a ball joint or two. You may need a really big hammer if it is suck in there.

I believe the 12V pumps were a cam eccentric driven block mounted affair. They didn't have the issues the 24V had, but that was due to the robustness of the P7100 rather than the cam driven pump.

So has anybody tried running twins with one VGT?

So that is in parallel with the airboss?

Without data or digging out my heat transfer text, I can't say the end result. However, radiation can change the temperature of a body without changing the ambient temperature. It might be negligible, but inside a dirt floor shed compared to outside a shed might have a significant difference of a couple degrees. And why couldn't wind increase the convection on a diesel engine? If you are trying to start an old diesel with a starting process measured in minutes, convection could extend the process. Granted, it isn't going to lower the temp past ambient, but it will get there faster as you said.

I think there is some physics that could explain the difference. From a heat transfer perspective, there very well may be a lot more radiative heat present on an engine inside, even if the ambient temperature is equal to the outside. conduction, convection, or radiation. I'd be interested to take an IR thermometer and compare an engine block in an unheated shed and one sitting right out side in the blizzard.

Addressed above. Convection. In a heavy wind, any small amount of heat produced while trying to start in the fuel, in the battery, in the oil, in the cylinders etc. All will be whisked away and the engine brought closer to ambient temps far faster than if there was no wind. With diesels and carbureted engines, this cold makes ignition difficult.

Glad you found the parts though. I didn't even know they sold those plates.

I try not to try new things. I might want new things. So, I just tell myself that I should accept and cherish old technology... Yes, Sir! Back from the age when men were men and women were glad of it!

When I see trucks like this, I realize how fortunate I am to have a western truck.

If you are going to all this work, there is also the option of buying a set of Sport housings and wiring up the relays for your own "brite box." Cost would be a bit more but the light wouldn't be as intense.

That you love food, booze, and flannel, I totally believe. Not canadien?

I get along well with Canadians. Generally, they bring me good food and booze. The last one was a high functioning Newfie who brought some sort of real Canadian Maple Whiskey... nothing like the crap we get here. Now for darker... One of my all time favorite songs. Great song for when you've been on the road for a long time. (hey, I said it was darker). Great 4am wakeup song.

I am a big Mark Knopfler and Dire Straits fan... Yeah, break out your head band.

Be happy then! To each their own, but I am a dinosaur. The closest I get to flat brimmed hats is watching Finnegan on Roadkill.

Well, he did have access to the company prius, but we had to take that away. Didn't he also vet all the m73m groupies too? I haven't seen many lately.

Another cool thought... I'm not a fan of blacked out trucks, but one could paint the reflector any color.

Neat.

Could you have broken a ball joint?

Awesome. I like you guys already!

I agree, and a single disc will save some coin. If you drive nice and smooth and don't stand on it while towing heavy (no lock up switch locked shifts) you will be fine with what Nick says. You have to think about what parts are taking the load while you drive. If it is in converter (no lockup) you aren't stressing the clutch. If you are locked up or trying to lock up, you might ease off while towing until it locks up. If you tow heavy with the comp dialed up or slam shifts at high torque with meaty tires, you may also need a new high performance flex plate and billet input shaft. Some guys get by without them, Wild And Free had a stock input if I recall correctly and did tractor pulls competitively. Stuff to consider. Another thing. With a chip, you will need to drive off your gauges more. I enjoy this part, but I keep a good eye on my EGT and keep boost below 25psi while towing with the occasional glance at my trans temp. Trans temp while locked up on the highway is usually low, like 140F, if it started rising, it would tell me to drop a gear and get locked up or to take it easy if I am stuck in traffic.

Well, you're a smart guy from the school of mimes. You'll figger it out. In all honesty though, I can't think of a way to isolate the different axes of the suspension. I agree with AH64... bent wheel? Have you compared the measurements of the hub to hub and frame dimensions to see if the truck is still square (in accordance with the FSM)? Other than the stuff you've checked the only last thing I can think of is an alignment.

Engine mount? Trans mount? Something that may have got bent or broke when your truck got hit.

The world has changed around me.

Edited for clairification. I've had both. I have a Smarty/TST Comp now. Alone, smarty is my favorite (with my setup and very low stall converter!) but the smarty / TST stack is holy.