CSM

In a stack, one box/programmer does fuel and one does timing and/or more fuel. I like how the smarty does its fueling off the line (very agressive) and its timing. However, the smarty doesn't put out enough fuel on the top end, which is where the TST comes in. Based on your driving style, a stack isn't required. Plus, the smarty is a good code reader. I like the smarty, and alone it can be programmed to have an easier or harsher off the line torque like the edge comp, but it won't put out near as much power as an edge comp. Alone, the edge comp is a more versatile unit. As for valve body and converter... There are a lot of opinions and I am not knowledgeable on the options. BD, SunCoast, Goerend, TransGO, Revmax, ATS etc. I got tired of reading about them all and just spent way too much at ATS! But, my trans was destroyed anyway at that point by the previous owner and I have had no issues with the trans. Picking valve bodies and converters might be a separate thread! haha! The only company that I have heard of with zero complaints is Goerend. Another thing I would recommend, regardless of what you decide for a chip. I have an Aluminum deep ATS trans pan. Keep the mag-hytec or ATS ones on your wish list on the Cumminsforum classifieds or on a black friday sale. They really help to keep the overall temperatures down and make the trans much easier to service.

I've run Juice With Attitude, Smarty, a couple Edge comps, and now have a TST Comp / Smarty stack. The smarty/comp is my favorite. The Comp is a good box. Very user friendly and capable of small power increases all the way to large increases. One word of caution on the automatic though... The stock automatics are good transmissions. However, they need treated gently when they are stock. Most guys can get good life at a higher level of performance by upgrading the valve body and changing the torque converter. There are a couple other mods, some solenoids and a governor arm that are good to do as well. However the big ones are the converter and valve body. The valve body should increase the line pressure to the bands and keep them from slipping. Slipping and the heat from the slipping is one of the big Automatic killers. The other issue is the stock converter has a single lock up clutch, whereas most aftermarket have 3 or more. The stock one can slip with the power of a chip, overheat, and send friction material through the trans just like the bands overheating. My point is, that you can do just fine with a comp. And a comp is better than an EZ. But, you need to be careful, especially when accelerating off the line or towing heavy, to be nice to the transmission.

I don't miss that. Working outside on those days sucked. As for how they act, I would imagine that any heat produced anywhere in the engine is reduced significantly faster via conduction than out of the wind.

I don't personally... I am kinda afraid of the E part of 47RE. Here is a nice install guide though. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-repairs-replacements/381985-47re-governor-solenoid-sensor-swap-pics.htm

Don't plug it into the wall though. Just use it as a jumper from the battery!

I need to change the fuel sender anyway. I ordered a draw straw from Vulcan. $35 shipped. not bad. I am making a list of "To Do" items to get the truck "done" for the next year and the move back to Colorado. I have gotten quite a bit done, but I am not 100% satisfied. I was planning on tackling most of this this week, but I have been stricken with some form of Arkansas head cold. The list has doubled, which is what happens when I have physical downtime... I catch up on my planning. Last time I had a cold I read up on alternators and determined what my problem was, hence that article. Long story short, this truck getting cheaper to maintain, as I am finally getting back to "normal maintenance items" and less immediate or performance modifications. To Do: (will happen) New one piece driveshaft Fuel tank sending unit & draw straw Install new steering shaft & check preload on steering box. Remove leveling kit, adjust alignment as required Install centramatics, rotate tires Install clearance lights & replace broken overhead console switch Remove suicidal bug from behind console screen. <- most important item on list! Fix A pillar mount Change PS fluid Change Diff oil Change transfer case fluid & new xcase extension seal Change shifter seal on transmission, adjust linkage. Find electrical short in power mirrors Fix cigarette lighter plug Replace foglight bulbs Install ARP studs Adjust E brake Fix block heater Parts on order: Driveshaft Sending unit Draw straw Switches for overhead console Wants: (sometime between now and forever, aka: BVR) Paint Dynamat the hell out of the cab Reseal oil pan, possibly pull head to check valve guides and seats Hamilton Cam Momentary switch to fass relay, to give extra boost to fuel pump on really cold day starts re tint windows new windshield new radio Redo ALL aftermarket wiring with better clips and solder joints. Replace plastic air line (fuel px gauge etc) with copper line. Put new foam in drivers seat Get craigslist factory heated seats to work Find correct accessory belt for smaller mechman alternator pulley Buy uncracked dash bezel or fiberglass mine. Extra fuel tank... I would like an extra 150 gal.

No block pump. Just a relay up there for the FASS... Not OEM wiring either. Here is what mine looks like. Similar, but not the same. Hard to see, but I don't have the big thing on the left that you have, and the plug is not parallel with the fuel line fittings like in your picture. The right side is mostly the same. I am trying to decide what draw straw to order. It seems like different kits for the in tank vs standard pump types. I am just going to order the cheaper old school one. I like simple.

I've been reading about this as well. There is a company that makes (very expensive) waterless coolant largely from Propylene Glycol. It isn't poisonous, it doesn't boil until 400F or so... great looking stuff. evanscooling.com Very pricey, but should last the life of the vehicle. If I ever buy a new truck... or rebuild this one, I will likely put that stuff in if I can afford it.

I am not the original owner. I didn't install the FASS HD. The pickup looks stock, and I can't see a draw straw. I am thinking of putting one in as I need to replace my fuel level sending unit anyway. Is there any way to tell? After looking through google images and on Rockauto for pictures, I really couldn't tell any big difference. All the photos I see have a 4 prong plug. The only big difference is that some of the in tank pumps have a squat hockey puck looking filter on the top of the pickup.

I would call the shop and see what they recommend for fluid and band adjustment. Most kevlar bands use dextron3 or similar to get better shifts and less slipping. I don't like doing full flushes either. But if you feel you can do it right, go for it. I don't like when fluid gets dark. Do you have a temp gauge? Below is the link for ATS, has some good info on the band adjustment. Honestly, I haven't checked their specs against the factory service manual. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.atsdiesel.com/additionalinfo/3092164/47RH-RE%2520Band%2520Adjustment%2520v1.0.pdf&ved=0CCwQFjAAahUKEwj04ofi9pLJAhWENiYKHRyyA2I&usg=AFQjCNFwKn6-JfQxRLxEbcN-HtO9p9o5qA&sig2=NzLhIIl0tPvCx5yAMVTeqg

Who did your transmission? Some of the autos like my ATS call for fluid other than ATF+4 due to the different clutches. You might want to check with them. As for the full or partial and band adjustment... how many miles since last, since rebuild? I have a deep pan on my trans, and I change the fluid every 15-25k. I figure I don't need to do a full since I have so much volume in the pan.

Very true. I come from the land of naturally aspirated performance, where we had to walk up hill both ways etc etc. All I am wondering is how much a good port, polish, and log manifold would do in comparison. There is a delta P across the port and valve. At normal RPM levels, like my truck, probably very little... and mabe some power loss. At your RPM level, that is a lot of swept volume to clear a very small space. Just wondering if anybody has done port head vs non port head dyno numbers. The good thing is with boost the speed of sound goes up as the temp and pressure of the air goes up, so true choking is unlikely. Which is quite the opposite of a N.A engine however, I haven't run the numbers for a turbo. Same with cam design. Turbo cam design is way different than non.

I have to wonder how much power is still on the table in the ports and intake. I wonder where those ports choke. Given the tremendous increase in boost and fuel, I would expect more than 650 hp. Have you considered a methanol fogging system? Do those really help at these boost levels?

I was looking at Dynos the other day. I would want a water dyno, not an inertia one. They could be built pretty easy out of an old Frac pump... At least, up to 2000 hp.

It is illegal for on road use.

Row, row, row your truck, all the way across town!

more area under the curve compared to previous? What programmer setups?

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/161-p0216-fuel-injection-pump-timing-failure That doesn't sound good.

Kinda like Charlie Browns teacher? Wa. wa. WAAA. wah. Waah wa.

I've bent rusted yokes before... I am probably going to get this tool eventually... Made in Canada. http://www.amazon.com/Tiger-Tool-10105-Automotive-Universal/dp/B000FN4NV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447462250&sr=8-1&keywords=tiger+tool+10105 Although those one piece driveshafts look nice!

LOL This is what my wife hears when I talk about stuff.

I am sure it is a bug, Russ. Odd. I am going to try. I can get in there. Huh... Have you tried reloading the cookies in your browser? I had some really odd issues the other day but that fixed it.

i will check mine tomorrow.

That sucks. New cam or used? Did you install it? I can't help but wonder if the journals were damaged on installation.

I have nothing to add. I love tools. I could have a tool truck and a shop the size of a costco and I would run out of space eventually.