CSM

The late 01/02 manuals were ecm signal only. dripley has one. I think M73M's is also one of the ecm only trucks. The older trucks and the automatics had the servo system. I think that the servo is under the drivers battery box on the 98-02 ones.

On my second gen, I would swap the horn and trans relays and watch it closely. However on your third, I would go to the dealer, have him hook up the DRBwhatever scan tool that monitors all the #s in the trans and drive for a bit and see if anything sketchy pops up.Do you have a trans temp gauge?

Ball joints? Brakes?Control arms? Hows the clutch?When was a new injector pump put in? Extra cab?That truck would range from 8-12 here depending on the above, color, and condition.

Looks a bit dirty. Almost like someone had a AFE or K&N on it at one point. If so, the general thought is get rid of the AFE/K&N. They are good for dedicated race cars, but provide zero real gains on our trucks and fog the engine with very fine dust, causing it to wear out prematurely.If the compressor wheel has play in and out, probably needs a rebuild. Though there may be a maximum play spec for that. Other than that, to my understanding, if the blades look good, wastegate moves freely and its clean then let it spin. Just don't clean them while the compressor outlet is hooked into the truck, as isn't good to run brake cleaner through the engine or grid heater.

Isn't the PCM going to be looking for signal from the trans? Or do you have that reflashed at the dealer?

I haven't done a swap, but i've owned both trucks. There are a couple guys here who have done swaps though and will probably chime in. There were some good old threads about it here as well. The good news is the auto-> manual swap is far easier than the manual -> auto swap. As for the shift lever, I drove a 95 I was thinking of buying this last weekend and mabe it was the regular cab, mabe it was the 12V... but the handle and supposedly parts in the transfer case were significantly different.

Might be going into some details here you know, but hopefully its useful. The stock clutch on the NV4500 and 5600 won't hold long term with any wire tap boxes in my experience. So plan on putting a Southbend or Valair clutch in and add that to your overall cost. The NV4500 (5sp) is much more common and easier to get spares for than the 5600 (6sp) as the 5sp is still in production. I have zero knowledge of the new manual transmissions. I've had a manual, and sold it with the intention of putting together a good 47RE on the original transmission. I liked the manual, but I got really sick of driving it in Denver. Really sick of it. If you find a trans from a pre 98 truck, keep in mind that the shifter stick is different and won't properly clear your transfer case lever. In my opinion, you are likely to be best off buying a wrecked truck off Craigslist and then parting it after you get your transmission, pedals, ECM, PCM, and dash. At least, in my metro area I see them pop up fairly regularly. It may not be that way in your region. You don't have to get the full kit, and you could "get by" with just the pedals and transmission, but you would always get codes.

There is another way. http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20Converter%20Lockup%20Switch.pdf I didn't like it, but thats just me. I had one on my old trans before the ATS trans. The new 5star converter is efficient enough for driving around town I don't really worry about lockup, and it was hard on the rest of my transmission when I had the switch. I could see it having a place though, but I would worry about slipping it and burning up the converter clutches, especially downhill on a stock converter and valve body.

Original APPS or TIMBO? I would imagine you are just hitting a worn out spot on the APPS and its shorting for a few tenths of a degree.

Heck, its worth a shot. Thankfully you are running a manual. I can't imagine doing this on an automatic.

It might work some, but it won't know what % of throttle its putting in and can only +up or -down an increment. I don't think it would be smooth. I strongly dislike control systems, but you should be able to hook up an APPS (even an old junky one) to the 12V throttle system.

Not that I am aware of, the APPS should be part of the control system. With just a resistor I would think that the computer would think that the throttle is stuck in one spot.

It's a tone thing. This isn't some random truck forum. This is a community of sick, sick, people. We are on the run from sanity, and we take our trucks seriously. We discuss minutia, we revel in ISX and his 12V madness, mopar man in his amazing wood cutting skills... And then, it all circles around our devotion to decade old or older trucks that really weren't intended to be on this earth this long anyway! These trucks are near and dear to our... sigh. Aw, hell. I digress. As I step off my soapbox... Let me summarize: Al Gore (inventor of the internet) once said in his leading role in the original Tron movie, "the internet is serious business!" I think I even have a photo of him saying it below.

Thats nice, dear.

When I had one, I would forget to switch it off once in a while. I am not a fan of them. I never got any codes either.

Story i heard in Alaska when I was younger... This young kid full of ____ and vinegar got off the boat to go find his fame and fortune in Alaska. He has a new .44 strapped to his leg and he passes an old salt sitting on the boardwalk. Ol Salt: "whats that thing on your hip for?" Kid: "why, bear, of course." Ol Salt: "I See. Kid, come here, we gotta fix that gun up if you are going to use it for bear... I think I got a file in my bag here somewhere to file that front sight off nice and smooth." Kid: "why file the front sight?" Ol Salt: "well, kid. That way, its way less painfull when the Grizzly shoves it up your ....!" In truth though, my daily carry is a 9mm P7, but in the woods I tend to carry .40 S&W or a rifle. The Alaskan native I hunted with though, carried a .223 Rem Mini-14. That native has been there since the 40s, and his family for thousands of years. I didn't say squat to him about being "under gunned!"

Holy crap. I thought selling the 12v motor would have cost you $1500 to 2k. I am looking at getting the truck to flip or to part out.

98, What did the kit cost you? I am not planning an install, but I have deal on a complete 95 driveline near me and I am trying to gauge the cost. Its a good deal on a parts truck basically.I guess on CF and whatnot I see 2000-2500 as the going price for a complete P pump kit.

You are probably feeling the converter lockup. You don't have 5 gears. The converter will lock up creating less slip when it goes from hydraulic turbine torque multiplication to mechanical lockup.

I did not. It's a decent turbo. I would only recommend a gated one though. It's a decent turbo. Not all hybrids are created equal though. Some are good some aren't and there are different housings, wheels and bearing kits for them.

I didn't. However, when I ran one I could never figure out how to properly secure it to the turbo inlet hose. So, I gave up and sold the truck Seriously though, I do want to figure out a secure way to mount a BHAF. I have an ARE air filter mount that I am thinking of modifying to fit, but I haven't had the time yet. I am thinking of a steel tube internal to the bhaf outlet that runs into the turbo inlet tube, then clamping the crap out of the bhaf to that tube in its inlet.

That... is a good question. I don't know for sure. I did some tweaking to the programmers this weekend and its driving way better. I am going to do some additional waste gate tuning after that. I suppose that I could still use more air/flow, but I am not lacking for power. I don't lack for oomph, spool, but I can get warmer than I want. If anything, I should pull the injectors, have them pop tested, and then trade them/sell them on a set of smaller ones to use less fuel. I really can't decide which way to go, so at the moment I am kinda circling. bigger turbo? smaller injectors? or nothing? As is, I can spin the 285s with ease and chirp the crap out of them during shifts.

Good luck, I've had my eye out for a long time. I've added up what the full kit will cost from LMC... ~1200 or so. I am really planning on just making a plate bumper from Aluminum or steel this fall sometime, but the OEM sport bumper looks really nice.

Eh, I wouldn't be too picky if there is a set for you and an extra... but shipping from OH to CO might make the deal tough. And for the grille bracket, the grille I have is an LMCTruck.com grille. I don't have experience with the OEM ones, however I think they are likely the same. This is also consistent of what I have read on CF.com.

The Laramie and base model grille uses a different bracket than the Sport and different hood latch(so I am told on the latch), neither of which I have. I had to modify and shave a bit of the bracket and add some mounting holes & spacers to make it fit properly. At present I have such little clearance between the grille and bumper I have to reach through the bumper to pop the hood latch. A new bumper or sport bumper and sport bumper brackets would fix the issue. I could go with a blue or silver bumper. Currently, its just the stock Laramie chrome and black/grey plastic. There a patriot blue or silver one in that field too? Heck, if there are two and you want to flip one, my dad has a paint booth and all the old body shop tools, I can repaint!