IBMobile

If the vehicle is used in a reasonable manner IE: daily driver or towing, I'd use the 8.8. If it is subjected to heavy duty use IE: mostly off road driving or snow plowing, I'd use the 10.9. If you just want the added insurance go with the 10.9.

Subjected to enough force an 8.8 will shear also, I've done it. A 10.9 bolt will be about 23% stronger. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

Fuel pressure gauge first. Fuel Boss mechanical pump, 3/8" line and stock fuel filter/water separator with edge EZ and it runs just fine.

Thanks for the secret sauce recipe. I'll try it out first and let you know how it goes. Then feed some to JAG1 and crew when we're camping in October. Looks like I'll need a stock pot and paddle with that much sugar and juice.

Old grills are seasoned and give the best taste. I was looking at buying a grill/cooker like the one on the right in your pic. How do you like it?

Sorry to hear you didn't get to finalize the rebuild, so much time and effort. On the other hand you got to see the inner working of the steering box first hand and you gained that much more knowledge. I went from 265 to 245 and haven't noticed any difference other than the speedos off a bit and need to recalibrate it.

But you can't make a camp fire in the room and they're not pet friendly. A lot of times we don't know the area or I'm pulling doubles so we'll pull into a roadside rest area, truck stop or big box shopping area. Dry camp there but no camp fires. K-Mart parking lot, Bishop, CA

Get the vin number then go here to decode it. It might give you a little more info. http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/VIN_decode.htm

Camped here, west of Bridgeport, CA

And it was a good thing I brought my hip waders because the BS was deep and flowed freely from everyone around the campfire. .

A set of these would be cheap I've been using a set of these CEPA tow mirrors for the last 12 years and I tow my 5er with a 14' boat behind it, total length 62'. I haven't had a problem seeing back there. I think they're about $75 for the set. The only down side to them is you have to adjust the mirror a little after taking them off and putting them back on. http://products.cipausa.com/product/cipa-10500-custom-towing-mirrors-dodge/

Somebodies' black Dodge with camp next to my 5er and truck other uses for the back of a truck

Check with your local Snap-On, Mac, Matco or Cornwell tool distributor.

Pressure relief valve sticking in the cylinder and the seal/o-ring between the pump and reservoir body at the fitting you took off that might leak now, warranty the pump.

Move seat(s) forward. Remove two(2) #20 torx screws and inside door pull. remove door panel with a tool like this There is a lot of room for the panel to come off. Take your time, the plastic may be brittle from age.. find the tool here http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231780888914?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Did you take this fitting/nut off the back of the body? and this stuff come out

Now this one is doing the same thing? Either the caliper was a bad rebuild and the piston is cocking in the cylinder, the pins the caliper slides on are binding or a hydraulic problem IE: bad hose. I'd jack the front up and compare the left (driver's) side to the right (passenger) side. Spin the wheels first to get a base feel for any resistance. If both turn freely then have some one pump the brake a few times and test. if it spins freely you have a mechanical problem. If it binds open the bleeder screw and release any pressure. If they spin freely you probably have a hydraulic problem. If it's a mechanical problem it may only happen after the brakes get hot as in stop and go driving. The heat causing the metal to expand and bind. Drive the truck and do 7-10 slow downs with out stopping from 30mph to 10mph then as fast as you can jack up the right side an see how much force it take to spin the wheel.

At Amazon I found APPS for as little as $14.20 to $179. Even at $20-$30 it's cheap enough to have one on hand for an emergency brake down. Even if it throws a code you'll get home.. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_4?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=apps+sensor+dodge+cummins&sprefix=apps%2Cautomotive%2C242&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3Aapps+sensor+dodge+cummins

How low an RPM do you what to run? Towing at to low an RPM will cause the engine to "lug" and that may cause rod bearing damage. If you're towing a trailer with ST tires the max recommended towing speed is 65mph.

This sounds like it's the pressure relief valve and spring is what you're talking about and it's not working stuck open. It's used to dump the fluid back in to the PS reservoir and you my be having low working pressure because of it

Better to get done all at once and have it be over than to do it part by part because of the over lapping labor.

How many things can it control IE: 4th gear lockout and TC lock up.

Will probably be the same for us. There's a place in my RV if you need it with hot running coffee.

Here are the pics. The left test strip is new, the next was put into distilled water as a base line, the third one is from the truck 24 hr. ago (the Ph has moved up to 7.5) and the last one on the right is from the Boss's car.

That lock nut bit into that stud and you can see the Loctite on the threads between the stud and nut. I don't think that nut is going anywhere.