IBMobile

I agree with @Tractorman that the breaker might be weak. When I was doing the charge line protection part of the W-T mod some members went with a fuse due to certain circuit breakers being of poor quality and tripping prematurely. I opted for a 150 amp inline fuse with a spare in the glove box.

Looks good...where are you headed to? Remember, pack the heavy stuff in the front of the trailer for better stability. I'll be leaving next week for the Sierra Nevada MT's with the Boss and my two grandsons.

Check the blend door motor: battery voltage (>12V) at pin #1 DB (dark blue) wire. 0 to <12 volts at pin #2 YL/OR (yellow with orange tracer) wire when turning the heater control knob. <10 ohms at pin #3 between BK/LG (black with light green tracer) and ground. If all above are good then either the motor is bad or the door is stuck.

The last one I did was @JAG1 's work truck where we pulled the dash and HVAC box out. Before disconnected the wiring and vent hoses: turn the ignition switch to the on position set the heater knob to the 12 o'clock position, straight up and down then turn the ignition off once the door has rotated; about 30 seconds. This will "index" the blend door and motor to the middle position and make it easier to work with out getting the door hung up on a side when putting it back together.

Yes, driving the salt covered roads of Connecticut and then letting it sit will cause those parts to rust up. Can you tell what side it's coming from? Take that side off and inspect. Check that the backing plate isn't close enough to rub on the disk when they warm up. With the disk off have someone set the park brake while you watch the action.

Parts from the Ram 1500 will work.

You could say my shopping trips are short. I can see the parking lot lights of Costco from my driveway and there is a Walmart next to it. To haul those cases of what ever "The Boss" buys from there we use a 1995 Volvo wagon. And, with all the room you could want.

Would you be able to duplicate the problem if the rear wheels were off the ground, rear axle on jack stands with front tires blocked. Better yet, do it with the rear end jacked up with the tires off and use a length of 3/8 fuel or vacuum hose, about 3' long, as a stethoscope.

Look in the 2001 Dodge Ram FSM, page 883.

Barrel of oil price has been down for a long time. The other oil products should have dropped in price too but...

This might help. https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

Here is a pro and con article on brake pad types. https://www.autoanything.com/resources/what-are-the-best-brake-pads-ceramic-or-semi-metallic/

@Manimalmother what was the fix, please.

That is exactly what it is. Attach it to the PCM by way of a case mounting screw. Remove the EDGE nd see how it drives. Check your alternator AC voltage should be less than 0.03 volts at idle with no load. Do a W-T ground mod and PCM ground wire fix along with a protective fuse for the alternator/PCM.

With a long jumper wire into the cab. One end attached to the B+ alternator terminal and the other end to a good quality volt meter.

I think it would code for a problem. Why do you think that it might be a problem? Did the scanner's live date show the same speed and rpm readings? What is the AC voltage at the alternator with same electrical power load and truck speed?

Left side of engine compartment. Those extra wires in the pic are for testing the rear speed sensor output and the signal frequency from the ABS to the PCM. The small connector is for power and the larger one is for signals, in and out.

Try driving with the ABS controller disconnected. The only signal to the ECM from the ABS is the brake switch sensor, I don't think that is a problem.

What's the AC voltage at the alternator at that RPM/electrical load? Path of speed signal: rear speed sensor at diff, connector at lower left fire wall (C129), ABS controller, white/orange wire from ABS, connector at upper fire wall (C130) to PCM.

Is it like this one?

Are these what your looking for. http://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_pins_and_sockets/deutsch_dt_pins_and_sockets/

How's the front pump and what are your pressures? When you had the TC out did the input shaft turn?