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My VP44 took a dump, with out warning, while driving down a long grade at 55 MPH; the engine just died. The control board went bad with just over 90k on it. It was the original VP and there was never a yellow anti-tampering tag on it.

One trip I took the VP44 went bad, Mopar1973man had one delivered to his house and we installed it at a campground near by. Another time, in Moab, U,T the crank sensor went bad and found one at an O'Reilly. This last time had the right front wheel bearings go bad on the way to Mopar1973Man's house. Mike picked up a hub for me in Lewiston, ID at an O'Reilly and I had all the tools with me except for the socket for the spindle nut, Mike had one. So, if something brakes when your on the road you can get the parts in a day or two and may be have the tools or get them also to fix it yourself. Be safe, have fun, and enjoy the adventure.

Info like this should be written up as an article so this good info is easily found.

I would. It would give a idea of the valve and ring health. If low compression is found then do the leak down test on that cylinder to determine the problem.

Only if they took their truck to Clown Garage. By the look of it and what you said that clown broke it, "welded" it, and hoped you would never see it. If he kept on doing repair work for you no one else would see it either, And you get to drink beer while doing it.

Course ground black pepper good for over a year in a Toyota on Guam.

Never mind fooling with the unknown and make up your own wire harness; that will take the guess work out of what color wire goes to what. The article below may help you make a harness. @dripleyI've been in JAG1's driveway for the past 10 days redoing the roof on my 5er with him while I redid his heater core and AC evaporator in his work truck. He has wifi but where I'm located on the driveway it is really slow.

Write what your going to get on the back of your hand next time. For lighting you can get power from the blub for the ash tray. You can run all the wiring through the rubber grommet on the left side of the fire wall. A few extra feet of wire for some applications but no drilling, no rust.

This is true. People have to evaluate the condition of their HVAC box and ability to perform the task then take action accordingly. For some trucks, the driveway queens, just pulling the heat core is all that is needed. Trucks that are in forest or farm conditions all the time will most likely need a complete remove, clean, and refit. Yes, I remember @flagmanruss. He lived out in the woods of Coventry, RI,

@JAG1 and I pulled the HVAC box this past week. What a PIA. Your evaporator doesn't look that bad. The evaporator was blocked about 15%, not real bad. If all you need to replace is the heater core then just replace that with a core that has swivel tubes, that's what we used, then clean the evaporator, ,install those Genos cabin filters like @Tractorman posted and call it good.

From the FSM is for check engine light and trouble code (P code) self erasure with 40 drive cycles. Now the condition the OP and I are addressing is resetting the monitors not erasing the p codes.

This show the voltage and amperage on the blue wire from the PCM to the alternator at idle with the headlights on with high beam, the heater fan on high speed, and radio playing; that's a 4.5 amp power draw. If the load on the alternator load increase there is a chance the 5 amp fuse will blow so I sized mine to 7.5 amp.

Before having the the state mandated emission test performed 0n my truck I've reset the monitors with 3 drive cycles after clearing a P code. This has been done several times over the years.

3 times, starting with engine temp below 160°, for 20 miles miles each should reset the monitors.

I've got my 5th wheel set up in @JAG1 driveway today and will be pulling his HVAC unit out tomorrow to do both heater core and AC evaporator, both are leaking. We'll see how it goes. I have replaced the heater core in another truck using the "short cut method" but that was a few years ago and the truck had low mileage' i used a heater core with swivel pipes and it was not a hard job. Still no leaks to this day.

P0172 Fuel System Rich Bank 1. O2 sensor is most likely seeing a lean condition and the PCM has richened the mixture as far as it can and is out of set parameters. With the vehicle less than 5 years old and under 50,000 miles the factory emissions warranty should cover the repair. Go on line and find out what the emissions warranty is on the vehicle.

@JAG1 order it now and it will be there Friday when I put the box back together. http://heatertreater.net/dodge-ram-95-02

Yes, I've done it to bleed the system when MoparMan and I replaced the injection pump, when I've replaced fuel filters, and when replacing injectors.

If you have the relay wired with the ECM triggering it then you can get the fuel pump to run without bumping the ignition/starter. You can remove the relay and put a jumper wire between terminals 30 and 87 in the plug; as long as that jumper wire is there the fuel pump will run.

I always use terminal 85 as my ground, black/white wire, that's the way it is on most wire diagrams. Terminal 86 is ECM ,use yellow/white wire, switched and only needs a 2amp fuse if you want too add one there. That relay you are showing does not have surge protecting with a resister or diode. This is important to keep voltage spikes traveling back to the ECM when the relay is shut off. I've seen spikes as high as 100 volts dc from an unprotected relay. Try to find a switched 12 volt feed in the PDC and use that as your 12 volt supply within line fuse to terminal 30. Yes, 87 to the fuel pump.

I have to agree with @01cummins4ever. I have a California class A CDL and tow doubles. Your looking for trouble towing a vehicle that heavy behind that trailer. .You will be going to NY on Interstate 80 or 90, When you get to Illinois the toll roads start and the tolls are really high when there is more than 2 axles. Also those states and toll roads may not allow double towing in that configuration . Some states require a CDL to tow doubles. Try to find a different way to do this move.

That's about the right price. I checked on about 10 different evaporators. The price range was $30-$75. I'll also replace the AC accumulator and orifice tube/high pressure liquid line and add 4ozs of PAG 100, As for JAG1, he lost that screw a long time ago.

Wire your relay like this.

All you have to do is look at what was normal before 9/11 and what liberties we gave up to the government after in the name of antiterrorism. People born just before 2001 and on think of what we have now as "normal". We are witnessing the genesis of another new "normal" as the government social engineers in the name of citizen safety. "Never let a crisis go to waste."

My spring fishing trip has been cancelled when CA Fish and Game moved the season opener from the last weekend in April to June 1st. I'll be doing other things. State, Fed, and most private campgrounds are all closed here. The private campgrounds that are open in CA depends on which county they are in.