IBMobile

The truck transmission was experiencing the torque convertor lock/unlock problem and that part was thought to fix it. The real problem is high ac voltage from the alternator caused by leaking diodes in the rectifier. The high AC noise can and will cause failure of the ABS, PCM, and ECM control modules. Delete that wire; all it is doing is covering over a problem and not correcting it. With a good multimeter, like a Fluke, measure the AC voltage at the b+ terminal on the back of the alternator engine at idle and all electrical turned off a good reading is 0.03 volts or less. 0.03-0.05 volts is marginal and 0.05+ volts is trouble waiting to happen. Do what we like to call the W-T modification. See below. Retest the charging system for drop in AC voltage.

No idea. that's a direct short for that ECM circuit. No codes? What happens when it's connected to the #2 solenoid?

Could it be that the "Injection Pump Fuel Shutoff" signal from the ECM to the PV44 is getting turned on for a longer time frames. @wil440 could you scan your trucks pump fuel shutoff with the Modis and see if it is normal to fluctuates like this.

Some thoughts from the past.

Ruff the surface up a bit so the JB has something to stick to then clean the surface well with alcohol.

J B Weld or... https://www.amazon.com/JDLLONG-Filter-AM876411-Engine-3tne74/dp/B08391XN5K/ref=sr_1_3?crid=I1CW9ZCVRLZP&dchild=1&keywords=john+deere+455+fuel+filter+assembly&qid=1592083827&sprefix=john+deere+455+fuel+filter+%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-3

I think this is the owners manual with wire diagram. https://www.gulfstreamcoach.com/media/uploads/1/11526_Dometic-Roof-Air-Conditioners-579--590--595-Manual.pdf

Stuck relay or bad circuit board. What make is it? Dometic or Coleman?

I didn't find any on the flex plate that I took off but it had only 110k on it. I've been using the EZ since 2005 on #2 first with a boost elbow (about 25 psi max) then with an adjustable boost controller set to 30 psi. No fooling with down loads, tunes, or up loads, just plug and pray...I mean play. The RV275 injectors gave the truck a nice boost in power. The injectors were put in at just under 100k so the OEM injectors were a little worn. Over all the truck tows very well; goes up 6% grades in 3ed at 55MPH with peddle to spare with exhaust temp between 950-1100 with steeper grades touching 1200.

None at all. I was going down a long steep grade on US highway 95 just north of Riggins, Idaho when, about three quarters of the way down, the engine turned off.

If Dynamic has a core he can use that as the build unit and ship it to you. The old trans becomes the core that you ship back to him so very little down time. My truck is using an Edge EZ set on #2 and Bosch RV275 injectors. With Dynamic transmission builds you get a new flex plate included. This is the flex plate, new on left OEM on right, that came with my transmission.

Check the ac voltage at the B+ alternator terminal; it's the big terminal on the alternator. I've seen lower voltage readings when testing at the driver's side battery. To test if ac voltage is causing the problem remove the alternator fuse and take it for a short drive. If the transmission problem clears up then you know it's an ac voltage problem.

That's why all the mods get done along with clean body/chassis grounds and good batteries, then test the alternator ac output.

The VP44 will stop it dead. Mine went bad on a trip to Banff, Canada. Luckily I was about 24km from Mopar Man when it took a dive. He got me one but it still took about 4 days to get back on the road.

I had @Dynamic build mine. I shipped my core to him and 10 days later I had a stage 2 trans in my truck. I tow about 9k lb., a 5th wheel with a boat behind it, and the transmission puts the power to the pavement. Dynamic put a low stall speed Goerend torque convertor in it. @Mopar1973Mandrove it a few weeks ago and said " @IBMobile was here and I was driving his truck and wow! With full lock up through the gear that truck is just flat mean with 4.10 gears and 245's tires. Really firm shift and everything." Give Dynamic a call and see what he says. His customer service is great.

The mod is only half done. Finish the mod before replacing the alternator then retest the ac output.

Both codes are for the crank position sensor and since they popped up after you changed the balancer you should recheck the sensor connection and ohm test the sensor. All so, are the teeth still on the crank shaft pully? Something like below?

Is that a '75' Midget parked there.

That "input shaft" is the other end of the pion gear as in ring and pion. There should be 0 play in it side to side or in and out. you need to take the diff cover off and inspect what's going on in there. I think you may have some bad bearings.

Bosch RV275 injectors. https://www.dieselautopower.com/bosch-new-injector-rv275-marine-300-40hp-0432193635

She told me all she wanted was a trillion dollars and a pack of Newports.

Try turning the engine over by hand (using a wrench of course) and see if there is any binding of the crankshaft while at the same time inspecting the teeth on the flywheel.

I've started a little project and in need of the out put voltage/cycle frequency mapped at different speeds for the RE47 output shaft speed sensor to the PCM, the rear axle speed sensor to the ABS controller, or the ABS to the PCM; also the differential size of the truck the info was obtained from. I know this is a shot in the dark but what the hell. Thanks

Pag100 for lubrication in the A/C system , A/C mineral oil to lubricate the O-rings for assembly.