IBMobile

280 ft-lb is the spec, I replaced the right one when I was at @Mopar1973Man place this spring. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft-lb so after 150 I used my 2' breaker bar and tightened it about another 20°, peened the nut at 12 o'clock with a punch and marked it with a dab of paint. So far after over 3,000 mi of towing the nut is still in place and no problems with the hub or bearings.

Replace everything when your in there or do the job again later.

Heat with oxy-acetylene torch, red hot, but don't melt the metal. Heat the flange area, that will expand the hole and brake the rust bound from the bolt.

Here it is.

I've done my heater core and @JAG1work truck heater core, heater treater, AC evaporator and accumulator. I took my time doing JAG's truck because we were also tearing the roof of my 5th wheel at the same time. His truck took a day and a half with all the interruptions.

Welcome to the forum. This web site run on donations and subscriptions to pay for the server, software, hardware, and all other related costs.

Get the vehicle ID number and go to a Dodge dealer parts or service department; see if they will print the factory build sheet for it.

I just got off the phone with JAG1. He is under mandatory evacuation and is living in his camper at a church campground. Keep him in your prayers.

YouTube Auxiliary fuel tank for pickup truck part 1 Auxiliary fuel tank for pickup truck part 2

You can replace the diodes at home. the diodes are sold in the store here. There may be another problem causing the diodes to go bad such as one of the batteries going bad or a bad cable/connection between batteries or ?. You need to have the charging system fully tested and do the W-T ground wire mod along with this modification shown below.

That squealing sound is most likely the pressure relief valve in the pump or a valve in the steering gear.

Me too! @JAG1 would still be picking bugs out of his teeth.

It took us about 10 days, not full time, but the last 3-4 days was was the hardest. JAG1 came through with his carpentry skills on patching a few holes; the removal of the skylight over the shower and the antenna mount along with some wood rot in front. Up and down an 8' ladder and moving it a few feet at a time for the removal, clean up, and then the installation was no fun. Next time I'm going to use a scaffold or moving lift; it would help in taking the AC unit of the roof. I had those MaxxAir covers over two of my vent and JAG1 still put his hand through the 17 year old plastic vent lids when we went to clean them. I replaced them all and already had, in the trailer, 3 new white MaxxAir covers to put on.

Have you tried "cock-a-doodle-do" or "Chick-fil-a".

Thanks for the feed back about this business. It is a shame that customers are put through this. It is hard enough to get professional customer care in face to face transactions; with transactions being done via internet, you're only a number on their screen where there can be a lack of integrity and caring. @pepsi71ocean will see this and update his article "List of Verified and Reliable PCM/ECM Rebuilders" in the 24 Valve 2nd Generation >Engine >Electrical section. You can also visit this article and, in the comment section, link this thread.

It's looking good. Now just two more thing to do on the wiring under the hood.

Here you go, the secret handshake. Or, it should be, join the club, post. and go.

You don't need a crimper. I soldered all the cables into the lugs with a small butane torch and rosin core solder. You can use a propane torch on low. I didn't use a breaker. I did a fuse like @JAG1 has on his trucks. It costs a little more than a breaker. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Block-Insulating/dp/B000K2K7TW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Blue+Sea+Systems+ANL+Fuse+Block+with+Insulating+Cover+-+35-300A+(5005)&qid=1598808156&s=automotive&sr=1-1-catcorr https://www.amazon.com/NEP-ANL-Fuse-3-Pack-150/dp/B077RF3FWJ/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=NEP+ANL+fuse+3+pack+(150+amp)&qid=1598808320&s=automotive&sr=1-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUFVODBGTkFVRjdBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEyWUFRUFJCOEhZUUFNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4MTYyODUxSk1PTVc1OUNDTDQ0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Amazon 150 amp circuit breaker https://www.amazon.com/STETION-Circuit-Trolling-12V-48VDC-Waterproof/dp/B07TBF1GVK/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3ICPSG3HB92FB&dchild=1&keywords=circuit+breaker+automotive&qid=1598790776&s=automotive&sprefix=circuit%2Caps%2C193&sr=1-10 The cable is a #6 AGW 1 #6-5/16" lug 1 #6-1/4" lug If you add the above circuit breaker you'll need 2 more #6-1/4" lugs.

Install this then turn on/off grid heaters as needed.

Hold down 89in-lb High pressure fuel line fittings at injectors 28ft-lb High pressure fuel line fitting at pump 18ft-lb

Yes, there are two connectors above the fuel filter housing at the firewall. The db/bk wire is in the one with 11 wires in it at pin #4. You need to disconnect the wire harness at C125 then do the ohm testing. This will isolate just the wire in the engine harness and you can see if this is the one shorted to ground. To test the wire from C125 to terminal #87: with C125 still disconnected remove AC relay from PDC, find terminal #87 position and with one probe from the ohm meter touching the terminal and the other touching ground the reading should be L or infinity depending on the meter. Now do the same with the C125 connector still separated at the wire unplugged from the AC compressor and ground. The ohm reading should be the same as above. If in either test the ohm reading is near or at 0 then there is a short in that wire.

Some say yes others say no. For the cost of the cable and the little time it takes to do it, why not do what the man who found the solution did and do it all.

Disconnect wire in cab from fuse in cab. Remove wire from cab. Attach wire, that you have removed from cab, to the yellow and white wire on the old LP pigtail. You're done; go have a drink.

Nothing, not a thing, goes back where the alternator cable came off the PDC. Think of the power flow like this: old way... power from alternator, through cable, to 140amp fuss in PDC. new way... power from alternator, through cable and 150amp fuse or circuit breaker to right battery, then through cable over top of radiator, to left battery, last to PDC through smaller red cable from left battery.