IBMobile

@leety be careful that the truck will still pass the CA biannual emissions test if it is needed in your zip code.

If the turn signals are not working but the 4 way (hazard) lights are then it's most likely the multifunction switch has gone bad.

Older than dirt and collecting our Social Security retirement money.

Yes, LUBRICATION DESCRIPTION NOTE: Refer to (Fig. 148) and (Fig. 149) for circuit illustrations. A gear driven gerotor type oil pump is mounted behind the front gear cover in the lower right portion on the engine. OPERATION A gerotor style oil pump draws oil from the crankcase through the suction tube and delivers it through the block where it enters the oil cooler cover and pressure regulator valve. When oil pressure exceeds 449 kPa (65 PSI), the valve opens exposing the dump port, which routes excess oil back to the oil sump. At the same time, oil is directed to a cast in passage in the oil cooler cover, leading to the oil cooler element. As the oil travels through the element plates, it is cooled by engine coolant traveling past the outside of the plates. It is then routed to the oil filter head and through a full flow oil filter. If a plugged filter is encountered, the filter by-pass valve opens, allowing unfiltered oil to lubricate the engine. This condition can be avoided by frequent oil and filter changes, per the maintenance schedules found in the owners manual. The by-pass valve is calibrated to open when it sees a pressure drop of more than 344 kPa (50 psi) across the oil filter. The oil filter head then divides the oil between the engine and the turbocharger. The turbocharger receives filtered, cooled and pressurized oil through a supply line from the filter head. The oil lubricates the turbocharger and returns to the pan by way of a drain tube connecting the bottom of the turbocharger to a pressed in tube in the cylinder block. Oil is then carried across the block to an angle drilling which intersects the main oil rifle. The main oil rifle runs the length of the block and delivers oil to the crankshaft main journals and valve train. Oil travels to the crankshaft through a series of transfer drillings (one for each main bearing) and lubricates a groove in the main bearing upper shell. From there another drilling feeds the camshaft main journals. The piston cooling nozzles are also supplied by the main bearing upper shell. Crankshaft internal crossdrillings supply oil to the connecting rod journals. Another series of transfer drillings intersecting the main oil rifle supply the valve train components. Oil travels up the drilling, through a hole in the head gasket, and through a drilling in the cylinder head (one per cylinder), where it enters the rocker arm pedestal and is divided between the intake and exhaust rocker arm. Oil travels up and around the rocker arm mounting bolt, and lubricates the rocker shaft by cross drillings that intersect the mounting bolt hole. Grooves at both ends of the rocker shaft supply oil through the rocker arm where the oil travels to the push rod and socket balls (Fig. 148) and (Fig. 149)

I pull the fuel pump relay when the truck is going to sit for awhile to prevent theft. NOTE: if you try to start the engine with the relay out it will not start and the check engine light will turn on with a code about no power to the VP. Have a code reader handy to reset the light.

Glad you could join the club!

Diesel Auto Power https://www.dieselautopower.com/dodge-ram-cummins/1998-5-2002-5-9l-24-valve-dodge-cummins/1998-5-2002cummins-fueling-and-injection/1998-5-2002cummins-fuel-injection-pumps

Yes, pin #7 (center pin) of a seven pin trailer connector. Some trailers will use that center pin for an auxiliary purpose.

Are you sure that's not a urine sample? The diesel here is light yellow to clear.

UBMobile repair. I hope you charged good for that road side service call.

From pin #4 at the APP sensor to pin #32 at the ECM. It is the accelerator pedal position sensor ground wire to the ECM.

Go to Down Loads>Dodge Ram Factory Service Manual>Down load the 2001-Dodge-Ram-FMS.zip-Doc. Open FSM and go to Page 902.

280 ft-lb is the spec, I replaced the right one when I was at @Mopar1973Man place this spring. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft-lb so after 150 I used my 2' breaker bar and tightened it about another 20°, peened the nut at 12 o'clock with a punch and marked it with a dab of paint. So far after over 3,000 mi of towing the nut is still in place and no problems with the hub or bearings.

Replace everything when your in there or do the job again later.

Heat with oxy-acetylene torch, red hot, but don't melt the metal. Heat the flange area, that will expand the hole and brake the rust bound from the bolt.

Here it is.

I've done my heater core and @JAG1work truck heater core, heater treater, AC evaporator and accumulator. I took my time doing JAG's truck because we were also tearing the roof of my 5th wheel at the same time. His truck took a day and a half with all the interruptions.

Welcome to the forum. This web site run on donations and subscriptions to pay for the server, software, hardware, and all other related costs.

Get the vehicle ID number and go to a Dodge dealer parts or service department; see if they will print the factory build sheet for it.

I just got off the phone with JAG1. He is under mandatory evacuation and is living in his camper at a church campground. Keep him in your prayers.

YouTube Auxiliary fuel tank for pickup truck part 1 Auxiliary fuel tank for pickup truck part 2

You can replace the diodes at home. the diodes are sold in the store here. There may be another problem causing the diodes to go bad such as one of the batteries going bad or a bad cable/connection between batteries or ?. You need to have the charging system fully tested and do the W-T ground wire mod along with this modification shown below.

That squealing sound is most likely the pressure relief valve in the pump or a valve in the steering gear.

Me too! @JAG1 would still be picking bugs out of his teeth.

It took us about 10 days, not full time, but the last 3-4 days was was the hardest. JAG1 came through with his carpentry skills on patching a few holes; the removal of the skylight over the shower and the antenna mount along with some wood rot in front. Up and down an 8' ladder and moving it a few feet at a time for the removal, clean up, and then the installation was no fun. Next time I'm going to use a scaffold or moving lift; it would help in taking the AC unit of the roof. I had those MaxxAir covers over two of my vent and JAG1 still put his hand through the 17 year old plastic vent lids when we went to clean them. I replaced them all and already had, in the trailer, 3 new white MaxxAir covers to put on.