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First with a volt meter test combined battery voltage. if below 12 volts test each battery's voltage and charge as needed. Once charged check condition of both batteries; check for shorted cell or other problems. If batteries test OK then do a peracetic voltage draw test. If battery voltage is above 12 volts the check battery cables by doing a voltage drop test and starter motor.

How about the filler neck? That's where the Fuel Boss pump dumps the extra fuel.

Hang a few of these around; it might help.

Yes, but the locked up shift isn't as bad as the locked down shift. I back off the fuel peddle before manually up shifting when locked; this reduces line pressure and gives a smooth engagement. Take your time, gather all the parts you need and lay it out on a piece of cardboard for the markup and assembly.

In 1986 we thought we were voting for clean water and a reduction of cancer causing agents. Now, everything sold in the state has to be tested for carcinogens and if found the idem has a prop 65 warning label put on it. You can see that some manufactures don't submit their products for testing so they can't be sold here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1986_California_Proposition_65

That's almost a prohibitive shipping cost. I went to Rock Auto to see how much my cost would be and this showed up. Part # CH1241186 cannot ship to California because we do not have documentation required by Proposition 65 from VARIOUS MFR. Please choose a different brand. I've heard that Sapporo beer cans make excellent patching material.

Some people are more proud of their injectors than others. Both my VP44 pump and RV275 injectors are from DAP

I have a Dynamic built stage 2 trans and it will down shift locked up but it is a hard jolt when it does so I unlock the convertor before down shifting; no different than putting the clutch peddle in with a stick . It will also lockup in 2ed but I haven't tried a 1st gear lock up. Try this. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/52_transmission-transfer-case/diy-converter-lock-up-with-brake-pedal-release-r536/

Mopar 1999-2002 flasher relay part number 5600748, new number 68499015AA. You can contact your local Jeep, Dodge, Chrysler parts department for availability or check these web sites below. https://parts.hilltopchryslerjeepdodge.com/p/Dodge__Ram-2500/FLASHER/49391967/56007348.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla&partnerDevice=c&userLocation=9031295&gclid=CjwKCAiAgc-ABhA7EiwAjev-jzxi6bpwpRJMkN6kPDWY3Sik79ICGGdBje-F_Xi-9nVBxmRS1HPTzBoCiooQAvD_BwE https://www.moparpartsinc.com/p/Dodge__Ram-2500/FLASHER-Turn-Signal-Hazard-Flasher-Turn-Signal/94376855/68499015AA.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla&partnerDevice=c&userLocation=9031295&gclid=CjwKCAiAgc-ABhA7EiwAjev-j7sVJ5xfR_NCfk98-V68B1o4Fa4W6YoTOAd5kC8SQeAv1OuSV1A4uRoCiMMQAvD_BwE

My truck has an HX35 adjusted for 30lb of boost , RV275 injectors, Edge EZ with a 4" exhaust and tow 8-9K trailers. The only time I see high exhaust temps is when going up hill in overdrive; down shift to 3ed and the temps go down. With an HX35 and a mild upgrade in injectors you can dial in a tune with the Quadzilla and keep the temps down. Be carful of how much power you put to the transmission; 350HP is about the max limit for a stock transmission.

Mike hard at work

In 1967 I was living in Cumberland, R.I. and this house wasn't built yet so I still stand by "The last time I saw snow at my house...never".

It changed here. Last week the temps were over 90° and dry. Today it's 52° rain and windy, that's my winter weather. The last time I saw snow at my house...never.

I'm still doing it. Last week, on different customers' Volvos, I replacer a fuel pressure sensor , mass air flow sensor, radiator, right front drive axle, radiator and coolant hoses, gas door with hinge, rebuilt a power antenna assembly, reprogramed two door modules among a few other things while replacing the dash cover, grill, and reinstalling the 5th wheel hitch and wiring on my truck.

Be sure to have the Raptor lift pump controlled with a relay to protect the ECM. Installing Protective Lift Pump Relay - Fuel - Mopar1973Man's Dodge Cummins Forum

Ol' deadeye JAG1 ain't a kidding

Don't steam clean or was a hot engine! The steam can migrate into electrical connections where it will condense and start corroding the contacts. This will cause high resistance and skewed sensor readings leading to check engine lights and poor drivability.

To cut a hole in the firewall you'll have to remove the dash and HVAC assembly. Push come to shove, you can see the back of the head real well with the trans removed. Are you pressurizing the cooling system with a coolant pressure tester? This may aid you in finding the exact position of the leak. You can rent one for free at O'Reillys. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/evertough-4771/tools---equipment-16488/rental-tools-16837/rental-tools--air-conditioning---cooling-19163/12095d53bcad/rental-tools-evertough-radiator-cap-test-kit/67085/4700282

The sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. If the sensor isn't needed then remove and put a plug there; to seal the threads I use Permatex no. 2 or Rectorseal no. 5.

I've driven it once but Mike set the Quad to stock before he turned it over to me.

In the FSM section 8 wiring, sub-sections 8W12 and 8W-90. Down load the 2001 Ram FSM here: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwDkuRJfDNZEaVhqcm93M0lEM1E/edit

This article is from 2017 and hasn't been up dated but it's a start. High output alternators for Rams - Electrical - Mopar1973Man's Dodge Cummins Forum

I have one from LMC stored in my trailer that will be install when the rest of the stereo parts get here next week.