IBMobile

Yes, that's what is done to address the 12-14 volt charge wire running next to the other ⩾ 5 volt wires. No, not from the alternator. You could just disconnect it form the PDC and alternator and leave it in the wire harness but you can be cheap and reuse the wire to connect the right battery to the alternator. Also, taking it out cleans things up and if anyone else has to do electrical diagnostics they are not saying" What's this wire for?".

So is this 36 years "It's suppose to run like that" of quality control? Good call!

There maybe a direct short to ground in the dark blue/black wire from connector C125 to the AC compressor. Unplug the wire at the compressor and the c125 connector, located next to the vacuum T fittings at the fire wall, and ohm test it. If the reading is 0 or close to it there is a short to ground in that wire. If that's the case then you will have to find where it is and repair it or cut the wire about 3" from the engine side of the C125 connector and run a new 18 AGW to the connector at the AC compressor. If ohm reading is L or 1000 then ohm test the wire between C125 and pin 87 of the relay plug. .

Was it the fuse in the PDC, 10amp, at the J position or the #11 fuse, also 10 amp, in the junction block (left side of dash)?

You need to have your mechanic friend remove the add a fuse and wire from the relay at fuse #9 in the cab; then connect it to the yellow/white wire that was used to power the other fuel pumps you had on the truck. This will put the fuel pump control back to the ECM.

My right rear tire, 7/29/20, Michelin LTX A/T2, 245/75-16, Date code 4412, thread depth was 5/32", air temp 108° F, road speed 60 MPH, towing 2050LB flatbed trailer. The tire were bought in 2012 at Costco and truck is used mostly to tow my 5th wheel. Replaced with same Michelin tires. Set of 4 $905. Damage to truck ? I'm still going through the process to find out. I taught all my kids how to drive a stick; their first cars were 5 speeds on the floor.

You can splice into the tan wire (1) behind the light rheostat for unfused power to gauge lights or any orange wire (2) for fused protection. Those wires are 18 and 22 gauge.

Try positive wire to tan wire at headlight switch.

The Timbo APPS is sold here in the store.

Why don't you stuff the little car and tow it behind the truck. The best of both worlds.

Quote from 2ed gen, engine fuel article Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Requirements: Fuel Lubricity Bosch back in the day when designing the Bosch VP44 injection pump they based the design off of Europian fuel standards of 460 HFRR or less. Just about the time the Bosch VP44 was being introduced to the Cummins engine the US fuel was not adhering to any standards. So even before ULSD (ultra low sulfur diesel) came to be the US fuel had numbers as high as 500-600 HFRR. After a whole diesel industry getting damaged by the fuel the US standard was made at 520 HFRR. But that not going to meet the Bosch standards of <450 HFRR. So hence, the 2 cycle oil concept was born to band-aid this issue. It was found to achieve this requirement the best ratio of 2 cycle oil to diesel fuel is 1 oz./1Gal. I buy the gallon size Walmart's Super Tech Tc-w3 Outboard 2-Cycle Engine Oil and store it in used 1 quart oil bottles. A bottle fits in the door pocket and doesn't spill. When towing the 5th wheel I will have up to 8 quarts stored on the left side in the bottom of the trailer for easy access during fill ups.

No, the connector plug on the outside of the transmission should be dry.

If you're close to SD I might be able to help.

Where is the truck now?

What is the pilot bearing like in the rear of the crankshaft?

With a "healthy amount of up and down play" the drive gear bearing, thrust bearing, and main shaft pilot bearing are most likely bad. Fourth gear teeth and counter shaft gear may have been damaged, see red arrows.

If you power up the trans relay do it with a power source that is switched on with the key in the run position only.

Thanks a lot JAG1. Not only have you suggested That I'm a gang leader, need to be 55+ to join, but that we are also engaged in nefarious acts such as grand theft RV.

From the alternator to the PCM. You might find this interesting.

In the Fall you will want to keep the leaves of the roof. A build up of them on the roof can lead to discoloring and mold along with ice build up damage in the Winter.

I've also seen the fingers of the pressure plate worn down due to a bad T O bearing.

One of my suppliers was selling cam belt tensioner for Volvo B21, B23, and B230 engines. I could get a name brand tensioner for around $20 at the time or a no name tensioner they had in bulk for $5; for $15 more I went with name brand. You get what you pay for and cheap part just makes for a disgruntled customers and extra work for yourself,

You think for good customer relations they would at least give you a new bearing. It can't cost that much in relation to the cost of bad PR and lost sales. Oh well, penny wise and pound foolish.

It got moved next to the work shop were the fire truck was. I get people all the time looking to see what the hell is making all that noise when I roll in somewhere; and yes it's not a FORD.