IBMobile

Save your money. The turbocharger heats the air when it compresses it and the intercooler cools it about 100°F. The heat shield between the air filter and the engine doesn't stop hot air from under the hood being used considering the amount of air being used. A 5.9 liter engine running at 1800 RPMs is using over 187 cubic feet of air a minute.

Use the gray/black wire, pin #24 at the PCM. The orange wire has the voltage and the black/lite blue is the signal reference

The PCM controls the transmission overdrive and and torque converter lockup and the ECM is different for an auto also. Others that have changed from an auto to a 5 speed will know more about it.

There is also campground recreation with the campground host which includes log splitting and diesel truck repair.

That's a hard one; shoot or scoot.

@dripley If you come to the San Diego area I've got water, 20 amp 120V , a sewer dump, and a loaner car.

Can you post the line pressures when decelerating with and with out the TV vacuum solenoid activated and the TC locked up?

I have the fuse for the electric pump pulled and use only the Full Boss when starting/running. I have only used the electric pump to prime the fuel system when replacing the VP44 and again when the injectors were replaced.

Here's a photo of my injection pump. It is a replacement remanufactured pump purchased from @dieselautopower and installed 8/25/17 by me and @Mopar1973Man in Riggins, ID. The truck had about 97,000 MI on it. Some rebuilders use tape/label, some use paint and some use both. You can see the yellow anti-tampering paint on the screw head like yours has on it. Yes, I'm still using banjo fittings from the filter to the pump.

I've heard that before. Seriously, I think that pump has been replaced. You can see the yellow paint dabs on the screws and fittings. Parts re-builders and wrecking yards will mark parts for anti-tampering. If the paint is disturbed the warranty is void.

When the apps goes bad we recommend the Timbo. I keep one under my back seat for replacement when the stock one goes bad. You can find it in this sites store section.

Here in the Great Over Taxed State of California With its oil fields and refineries and failing roads this is the lowest I've seen in years: regular @ $2.52/gal at the local Costco, diesel @ $3.43/gal at an ARCO. The San Diego county average, calculated by AAA, for today is regular @ $3.201/gal and diesel @ $3.605/gal.

Looks like our sports has now gone virtual, since there can't be any crowds in the wake of the outbreak, with Fox broadcasting NASCAR Pro Invitational IRacing Series from virtual Homestead-Miami speedway. I can't wait for the virtual baseball season so I can have a virtual hot dog with my virtual beer. I guess then we can go get the virtual toilet paper. https://www.foxsports.com/nascar/video/1714445891581

I'm trying to figure out how to turn it off, along with the torque converter lockup, automatically when the speed goes lower than 35mph like the BD TorkLoc does.

I like your cruise control music, Status Quo - Pictures Of Matchstick Men

I adjusted mine about two weeks ago. The end of the adjusting spoon in contact with the adjusting wheel, on either the left or right side, needs to go up ↑. Now, facing towards the front of the car the adjusting wheel on the left will turn counter-clockwise ↶ and the adjusting wheel on the right side will turn clockwise ↷.

Line pressure in my @Dynamic rebuilt transmission. Air temp 91°F Transmission fluid temp 165°-190°F Line pressure, transmission in drive : no throttle stopped 85 PSI light throttle 2ed gear 105 PSI light throttle 3ed gear 110 PSI light throttle 4th gear 120 PSI @ 2200 RPM W/O throttle 1-2 shift 180 PSI @ 2800 RPM W/O throttle 2-3 shift 175 PSI @ 3100 RPM W/O throttle 3-4 shift 150 PSI W/O throttle 4-3 shift 150 PSI 100% throttle 4th gear TCC locked @ 70 MPH 160 PSI 0% throttle 3ed or 4th gear TCC locked down hill slowing 100PSI reverse gear stall test 330 PSI

The kits are readily available. https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk01HmkV199-OrSYF2YJBgWc6DdG8rQ%3A1584668970214&source=hp&ei=KiF0XpyHCsvH-gSn8K3wCw&q=2001+dodge+ram+2500+diesel+brake+line+kit&oq=2001+dodge+ram+2500+brake+line+kit&gs_l=psy-ab.1.1.0j0i22i30.2050.23285..28244...2.0..0.271.4584.3j29j2......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i131j35i39.DTaPuCubM90

Glad you got that part fixed but that's why I had someone else do my hip replacement. It looked easy on YouTube.

That only controls the overdrive, not the torque converter lockup.

Start by swapping the transmission control relay in the PDC with another of the same size. If the condition persists check for power to terminals 30 and 86 of the transmission control relay whit he key in the on position

@BrokeAssPainter asked this question: I just changed out my right wheel hub assy, everything I'm finding online says tighten to 20ft/lb then back off quarter turn and then hand tighten......... Honestly that just doesn't sound like it's going to hold my front tire on seeing as how it's a 2wd with independent front suspension. Anyone care to chime in? I'd really appreciate someone saving me from a catastrophic failure lmao From the 2001 Dodge Ram FSM page 59, section 2-8 FRONT - 2WD TORQUE SPECIFICATION Hub Bearing HD 2500/3500: 280 Ft. Lbs.

Thanks again, I'm not on Facebook but my wife is so I'll use her account to look around.

OMG, those are Japanese beer cans. I hope the truck doesn't morph into a Honda.

Thanks, I've been looking. I called all the truck wreaking yards from the Mexican boarder north to the next county and Craigslist but no joy No joy there either. One place didn't carry it and the metal place wanted almost 1k for the basic of materials. Call me.