IBMobile

I think that apps is worn out and you can't teach an old dog new tricks with a reset. Go to the Mopar1973Man store and see if Mike and help you out with a new Timbo apps In my truck I've done all the mods for the charging/PCM/ECM systems along with new alternator brushes and diodes. The AC voltage measured at the B+ terminal on the back of the alternator is ~ .025-.03V. The truck has never had a convertor lock/unlock problem. If you're going to pull your alternator for a bench test, then it wouldn't hurt to pull the batteries, at the same time, for a load test.

This was tried a few months ago with you, me, and @Doubletroublelogged on. I could get the audio but no video at that time. I think with every ones busy schedule trying to get more than a couple of members to participate is like herding cats. One on one face time seams more feasible for a Q N A.

Yes, the yellow wire supplies 12V to terminal 86 of the starter relay when key turned to start position. I think you found the problem in the ignition switch.

Power all the time at terminal 30, good. Power at terminal 86 when key is turned to the start position, good. Terminal 85 shows continuity to ground, good. Terminal 87 is grounding through the starter motor solenoid. good. Since you have been starting the engine by using a wire direct from the battery to the solenoid the starter motor is then assumed to be good. Using a jumper wire briefly connect terminal 30 and 87; the starter motor should engage. If yes, then relay is bad. If no, then there is a problem with wire/connectors between terminal 87 in the PDC and the starter solenoid.

This is the relay when not energized. This is called a NO relay or Normally Open relay. In this application terminal 87, when energized, sends battery voltage to the starter solenoid.

Key on or off there will be battery voltage at the fuse and terminal 30 of the relay. With the key turned to the start position there should be battery voltage at terminal 86 of the starter relay. Check terminal 85 of the starter relay with an ohm meter for continuity to ground.

Those are peas you were walking on.

This should help

Have a wonderous day

Good to hear. Take your time on that road to recovery.

May good health envelop you, spurring a quick recovery.

Same thing happened to me. Brakes got smoking hot coming down a grade between Banff to Jasper Canada. About 6k miles later I was changing the right wheel hub when visiting @Mopar1973Man.

No idea, it's not shown in the FSN section 8W-42 AIR CONDITIONING-HEATER.

BS, after going up and down a couple of stairs the morning after surgery I discharged myself that afternoon.

HELLS BELLS

HELL NO!!!

It must be a doctor thing. The surgeon, replacing my left hip, ask me the same thing just before I lot consciousness.

Think of it as a forced vacation and relax; there's nothing you can do about it so make the best of it and enjoy the down time.

Had my left hip replaced a few years back. It went so well and easy. I was off major pain meds in a week and back at work in 4 weeks. Wishing you well and a speedy recovery

Is that like being hen pecked? Dave Ripley and me in Hickory, NC 11/4/2018 I'm the good-looking guy on the right.

Is that you, second on the left?

To check for a cracked pickup tube in the fuel basket fill the fuel tank; the bouncing needle will go away because the crack is covered with fuel.

GASKET, BANJO BOLT - 12MM O-rings at fuel canister. The rubber seal in the O-ring may have gone bad. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/bf-3963983/fuel-system-seals-gaskets

Stay with the stock to start with and check out the relief valve on the old pump to see what went wrong.

You might have made a small burr on the housing when you drilled the valve causing it to stick/bind. Have you taken the case/reservoir off of the pump to try and access the valve. Below is a video on Saginaw pumps you may find useful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TIXOCrYPNQ