IBMobile

Check it again after a week of driving. Get that EGR problem taken care of first so it's drivable..

I don't know. It was replaced 11/09 with 63,500 mi (46,000 miles ago) when the trans was rebuilt. I'll try to find out.

A leak down test is the tell all. If you have a broken ring or bad valve it will show up here. That looks like oil deposit fouling on that plug. A stuck open EGR will cause a rough idle and stalling as well as a cracked EGR pipe between the valve and intake manifold. Check for fault code like P0401. If you had a leaking injector then there would be a code for a bad injector, to rich, or to lean. A vacuum leak will trigger a to rich code.

Transmission acted up yesterday afternoon for a short time. After road testing for 4 miles it happened 3 times in a row then no more. Road tested again last night with out a reoccurrence. It would only not 2-3 up shift during full throttle acceleration. If throttle is backed off then up shift happens. Governor pressures when problem occurred: MPH PSI RPM 0 2-4 800 45 56 2800/2ed gear When shifting is normal: 0 0 800 45 92 3400 2-3 shift at full throttle

I've seen a water cooled Mitsubishi turbo glowing red on a Volvo after a hard pull up a long grade. That turbo had over 400K miles on it with no cool downs before I changed it out with a used cartridge.

Some ac manufacturers have up to 5% bypass air built into the system.

The fluid is clean and full with 1,000 miles on it. I don't have a plug on the pan and don't want to pull the pan off for inspection just yet.

Here I am working on it while my girlfriend watches. My next car was a new 1970 Volvo 142S which cost $2850 pulse tax and license.

Thanks for the info above. I believe those pressures are for the line pressure test at the accumulator test port. I am checking the governor pressure at the governor test port. The governor pressure at idle should be 0-3psi and climb 1psi/mph to 30mph. If governor pressure is above 3psi at idle then there is a fault in the governor valve system. If the governor pressure is to low on the road test then there is ether a bad governor pressure solenoid, pressure sensor (transducer), or control module. Since the test pressures fall within parameters I'm going to do more road testing. I hope it was an anomaly and the transmission just needed to be 'exercised' like @JAG1 suggested.

Went to road test the truck today for a transmission problem and the check engine light was on. Installed code reader and had P0230. I forgot that I had pulled the lift pump relay to see if the check engine light would come on. So, on my truck it does.

I installed the 0-130psi pressure gauge and have taken the truck out on two road tests. The transmission is shifting fine at this time. I'm going to keep the gauge on for a few days and drive the truck some more. The pressure readings were taken with my helper, my wife, driving and calling out the road speed. MPH PSI shift 0 0 20 20 1-2 33 40 2-3 45 50 3-4 56 74 convertor locked 65 80 convertor locked

That's what happened the last time I replaced them. When I serviced it 1000mi ago the fluid and pan were clean. Right now I have the left battery box out while doing a new type of grid heater bypass modification. I'll get my pressure gauges on it maybe later today.

Get out of bed and take a leak.

You know when you're old... your prostate is your new alarm clock and it goes off every 3 hours.

I drove the truck for the first time in 4 weeks and started getting a no 2-3 up shift condition. It will up shift when backing off the accelerator. All the other shift points are at the proper speed/throttle position. The transmission speed sensor was replaced 8/8/18 (107,893mi) due to no 1-2 up shift but would start off in 3ed if transmission relay was pulled. Transmission was serviced with front and rear band adjustment 9/1/18 (108,024) then a 1,000mi trip in October pulling the 5er with no problems. The transmission now has 109,362mi. I'm thinking it may be the governor pressure sensor and solenoid. They were replaced about 45k mile ago. Has anyone else seen a problem like this? What say you @Dynamic?

You can check that with and ohm meter but with a volt meter check for stray voltage at the sensors from a bad wire harness.

FCA brand equals FIAT equals "Fix It Again Tony".

Have you confirmed that it is the ECM that is letting the higher voltage into the system? You can disconnect it from the harness and then checking the voltage at the sensors.

Cut a piece off of both ends and take them to the parts house. There they can match the inside diameter of vacuum hose needed for the splice..

There is a connector to the right side of the fuel peddle, half way between the ash tray and fire wall. Check the vacuum hose connectors for rot.

I use black on diff covers, water pumps, Volvo v/c gaskets. I use the gray to make oil pan gaskets Most people don't read the directions and glob it on thinking more is better or they don't let it skim over.

Ohm test the wires to the terminals in the female receiver you got out of the junk yard, this will allow you to know what wire goes to what terminal. You can make a diagram. Then see how they correspond to the wires of the trailer and known wiring diagrams. In the past I've volt and ohm test the trailer plug to identify what each terminal in a plug is for.

@AH64ID I know the ones you are talking about and when I bought these It was mentioned in the reviews about that problem and to buy the higher rated blubs. They were installed just before the solar eclipse trip in August 2017. Both @Mopar1973Manand @JAG1 have seen how bright they are. I've done several 4 and 5 week trips since then with having no problems with them.

I put these in my 5er and could not be happier. They are supper bright with little power. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDFM66E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You don't need to do a mod. A time delay relay installed as the lift pump relay will do. https://www.delcity.net/store/Time-Delay-Relays/p_804415.h_804416.r_IF3003?mkwid=8TgfXoca&crid=11472933143&msclkid=244a8de769fc10e0a1ddd14a10340b58&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - PLA's(BSC)&utm_term=1100315444392&utm_content=Ad group %231 Another way is to have the automatic shutdown relay control the lift pump relay.