IBMobile

I too agree with @wil440that a rebuild may not be necessary. I've done a few oil in the coolant over the years, we call it a chocolate milkshake. the best, cheapest cleaner for the cooling system is Dawn dish detergent. Drain contaminated coolant remove thermostat and add 1-2oz of Dawn per gallon of water, run engine at idle for 15-20 minutes. after reaching running temp. Repeat this until water is clear.

It can be done using two relays and the factory OD switch. I drew up rough schematic on the back of an envelop while having my afternoon coffee. If your interested I can draw up a more detailed schematic an post it.

You can install another push button switch in the shifter and use it to trigger the relay. I've installed one in my truck as well as @JAG1truck. Here is how to do it. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/52_transmission-transfer-case/diy-lockup-switch-install-into-gear-selector-arm-r384/ Use an on/off switch. Take power from any hot, with key on, wire under the dash and install a 2-3 amp fuse in it. Run that wire to the shifter on/off switch that you installed. From the on/off switch run a wire to the PCM and connect it to terminal 86 of a mini relay that you can install in an empty slot. Run a ground wire from terminal 85 to ground. There is a blank spot in the PCM for an extra fuse. Run a wire from the fuse to terminal 30 on the relay and a wire from terminal 87 to the fan motor. See the article "Installing Protective Lift Pump Relay" in the fuel section , it has a lot of what your looking for. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/59_fuel/installing-protective-lift-pump-relay-r501/?tab=comments#comment-55 If your looking for the fan to come on automatically when OD is locked out, and your towing, that can be achieved, I think, with 2 relays and no switch needed unless you want one added for more control . I'll have to draw up a diagram later to see for sure.

Where are you putting all this stuff?

It's about a 3hr drive from Maryville to Greenville. Good luck and let us know.

@Andyba20 I think I found a door that will work for you. It's in Greenville, SC. https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/inventory/greenville-1212/ Type Ram into the search bar and It will the 5th truck on the list.

Storing the trailer there all winter for $75 is such a good deal. The campground we go to gets so much snow the trailer roofs could collapse and there is danger of avalanches, there are signs posted on the road. They will store your trailer in the town of Bridgeport during the winter months for $1.75 per foot per month, plus towing fees between the campground and town if you want them to do that for you. Your trailer would cost $63/mounth or $441 for the winter months plus towing. View looking north from the campground in May

That's a really good deal. The campground we go to charges $750/month which includes water, sewer, and electricity. People line up days before the campground opens, the last week in April, to get a spot for the summer.

Good for you. I like to call that a summer house without all the problems of having one; no mortgage, property tax, house insurance, etc. Where is the camp ground located? How long is your season? How much do they charge a month and is the electricity included? That trailer is 36 ft long with 3 slides and only weighs 9700lb with a 2200lb capacity is pretty good.

NO, look at it as a donation to the site. Unplug the connector for the bed wire harness between the cab and bed, like Mike suggested, then test at the end where the trailer plugs into the bed by the license plate. The problem could also be in your trailer wiring.

@Mopar1973Man The left tail lamp wire harness is in the mail. You should get it on Monday 4/17.

Here you go.

Remove the headliner or the formed fiberboard, that makes it shape, will be cracked/broken.

Had to cut the grass and trim the lawn this weekend.

I think you will find the information which you seek in the links below. https://mopar1973man.com/files/file/215-1999-ram-fsm/ https://mopar1973man.com/files/file/208-atsg-transmission-manual-46re-47re-48re/

That luck for you. Don't go to Vegas. Body parts from a 2ed gen 1500 will fit.

Check the intercooler for some type of restriction performance problem. It may not be sheading heat.

Below is the article on how to fix the PCM ground connectors and splice. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/pcm-ground-splice-repair-r675/?tab=comments#comment-115

I have the left rear tail lamp assembly wire harness for your truck. You can get it at the Mopar1973Man get together this May. See @JAG1for details.

It's in the FSM section 8W-80-40 connector pin outs, page 1053. You'll fined the FSM in the down load section of this web site. https://mopar1973man.com/files/file/215-1999-ram-fsm/

Next time I'm in a pic a part yard I'll try to acquire a used right rear tail lamp assembly wiring harness for you.

Below is a High Line CTM. You can see the two connection points on it. If yours only has one connection point then it doesn't have the Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS).

the PCM in these trucks only will display the Power Train "P" codes. They are not advanced enough or have the capability for body "B" codes. Does your truck have the high-line or premium Central Timer Module (CTM)? The premium CMT controls the Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS). You can identify this type of CTM by it having two wire plug connectors. The standard CTM has only one connector.

No but a simple solution would be to put the dash and VE power on two separate relays that are controlled by the ignition switch.