JAG1

I like that one. I did the same, but a little different....... I hung two short pieces of chain on the frame either side of the spare and got a small chain binder to hook the two together and tighten across across the spare tire. When I need the spare I just open the chain binder and let the chains hang out of the way. I put a clamp around the chain binder to secure the handle just in case. Our trucks always getting older, adding this for safety is a good thing.

Has anyone found Bosch's specs on Maximum fuel pressures allowed? Like to know where the 19-20 as tops came from as I have regulators on new Raptor 150's that cannot stay in range unless turned up a bit more.

May help to get 3 ropes over the roof and down each side, but you may already be planning that. I hope no storms come up Dave

Is it true that the early VP's also did not have a steel sleeve for the timing piston? Bosch may have made other improvements as well, if you've heard anything.......

I got to get in there to see if the seat heater is an easy fix. I understand sometimes its a simple burnt wire. My seat is sagged but comfortable.

So what is the results Mike?

I know that it is very important to be able to add extra filtration. I'm talking about the importance of a pre filter that is water separating so the lift pump does not get a chance to emulsify the water into the fuel. This allows the factory small filter to do it's job without ever getting overwhelmed with water or larger sediments.

I'm glad they pay you for all the heart ache with working out of town. It can be very tiring. Big cities make it more difficult just as 40 years ago I dropped out of a college because of big city complications. I Went and found me a college with cow pastures still around it. Loved the methane gas.... it were far better. Even Mopar73Man, years ago, escaped to Methane Gas Valley. Soon you'll be retired I hope Dripley before any age complications. I'm semi retired, basically work enough to stay strong and have fun b.s. with the subs. I don't think I'll ever give it up being there is a certain fun associated with low stress and that swing between work and play. I love that. I did quit smoking and I suffered getting there for sure and still dream about having a smoke of rare quality..... you know how dreams are...... but just had to quit because with age, every cig was just killing me. I'd lose the ability to work and be active if I didn't stop. I hope you can too cause I'm having a lot more fun now than before.

Dripley, Please be driving careful around there bud, I hope you get travel and living expenses with that too. Job I'm on now a tank will last me two weeks and is all country roads.

I used to have to do the same, Oil and filter on the engine I mean, not to confuse that one. I seem to be able to make life a little easier each year less and less running around. Thankful for that. I do have a weeks work 65 miles away coming up late summer, but a great place to work too.

I did..... about 10 qts. total because of the deep dish pan. It shifted nicely after. Truck just turned 100,000 last week. Only put on 5,000 miles on last year and still need to change oil and filter.

Nice truck Keith. I like what you did to the front bumper and grill. very nice. I have Raptor 150's on both my second gen trucks. They are okay, but the new style regulators were and still are a little erratic when new. I know regulators have a tougher time doing their job if fuel lines (suction and pressure side) aren't big enough and restricts the regulators ability to maintain the desired range. I know from experience the factory lift pump, even when relocated on the frame and you change the fuel lines to 1/2 inch all the way is really not enough to do the job. You gain only about 1 p.s.i. when you finally change the draw straw to 1/2' in the tank', but you need to get in there anyway to remove the screens and allow more flow into the fuel basket. There is a lot more than just what I've mentioned..... some very important items about power source for the lift pump being on a relay and using 2 stroke oil to bring lubricity levels up to what the injection pump needs. I will let others chime in on that.

As in Deere Life? I understand, the ability to lube the trans yet allow the clutches to grab better..... is less wear on the clutches, less heat build up so fluid holds up better. I believe that stuff is used in their hydrostat transmissions.

I heard it has some chicken fat making it sorta slimey....... Just got done. Dumped out 10 qts and put a little less than 10 back in. I really like the Mag Hytech pan. It has a nice drain plug with a magnet and stop on it so you don't over tighten the O ring. Nicely machined and supposed to strengthen the trans cse to some degree also.

At 30,000 it was done by the dealer using ATF +4 At 60,0000 it was done by you know who using ATF +3 At 90,000 done again by the same ykw using either one cause I didn't ask which they used...... I should just go the +4 then right? Won't hurt to mix?

Since all fluid is never drained unless the trans gets rebuilt, is it okay to mix ATF +4 with ATF+3 trans fluid that stays in the VB and TC? My truck has to get ready for a 1400 miler running with, heaven forbid....... IBMobile His coffee like burnt trans fluid, but wakes up old pliestocene fossils like me.

Thank you Nick for sharing your experience. It's great

JHFIII, they are as Dripley shows. They are located inside the black plastic conduit going along the front of the engine block and near the front of the VP44 front gear case. I think that's the best way to describe it. MoparMan opening up a sunbathing parlor in his garage.

What did you do to them ?

I could bring that one to Portland Oregon and get $16,500 if not been messed with. That's the one right there. Got to watch those cab lights they do leak. I put O rings on each screw and never leaked again.

Isn't there a potential for explosion with capacitors. You hear and read so much......... Capacitors are a band aid approach, that coming from another's perspective I read. I do know that with DC systems there is no perfect system.

Don't forget the 4 sensor grounds that are not soldered nor crimped together, they are only fused together with some sort of plastic from the factory. . Last time i heard plastic was good for soldering was when this huge 10 foot chicken was at my door.

Jake you can't run a VP engine even stock without maintaining a minimum of 14 p.s.i. fuel pressure. You need to have a fuel pressure gauge to see your above 14 all the time and during long grades or hauling heavy. 14 psi is the magic number because that's when the overflow valve opens enough to allow return fuel back to the tank from the VP. that is what does the cooling of the injection pump. Usually this means placing the pump on the frame and changing over to a big line kit so the lift pump doesn't work so hard to maintain the flow and pressure needed. Also are you using 2 stroke oil to help the VP

All I know is that every member that completed all of W-T's grounding mod reported better than excellent results with AC ripple. You can also do a search on dc systems about the need for a balanced system between positive and negative. That has something to do with it. I don't see the need to get into a college course about it we have hard enough time not getting pecked to death from chickens think they Texas Rangers.

Because the biggest offender of AC ripple comes from the alternator B+ charge wire so you don't want to send it right into sensors and PCM/ ECM at the distribution panel, you want to give the batteries the job of filtering out all that AC noise first before going on to your sensitive electronics. You want a clean DC current which the batteries are able to.