JAG1

I liked Betty the moment I met her. She was the coolest most resourceful person I ever met. A very diligent lady living alone right on the banks of the Salmon river and her story I'll never forget.

Except they attracted a bajillion bugs as soon as I opened the door just to go in for a visit. We were vacuuming for at least an hour and his poor wife, a real lady, was wondering what in world did we get ourselves into.

Mopar1973Man, I think your home and shop are quite a ways above flood stage, thinking it will be okay, but your only road home and going out for MoparMoms treatments is very close to the waters edge. Smart to move out of there for sure. We left out a couple 5 gallon buckets on the job. Monday they were almost halfway full from the same rain storm out our way. Thank you for the video.

I'm game.....been wanting to visit you all for a long time. Should be nice out there this year with all the rain I'm hoping.

X 2

Cool!

...... I think it's because 'Mopie Man' has given up after so many rebel members taken over his site. So beside himself he has resorted to riding a bicycle.

I haven't checked the price of the SSR for lift pump use and I like the use of an LED light used to activate the relay inside keeping the signal circuit entirely separated from the higher amp circuit. Plus the fact there is no contacts to arc, bounce and gradually burn the points. There was some talk about backfeed or excess draw causing possible damage to the ECM from a seized or failing lift pump motor. Maybe I don't understand, as IBMobile is credited with finding and showing us how important it is to have a relay with a protection diode to stop excessive load to the ECM.

I believe the ECM is opening and closing with an electrical pulse causing the relay contacts to chatter open and shut. This why my concern with burnt contacts in a mechanical relay. I understand the motor can run hotter with bad contacts, but I'm still formulating my knowledge on this and has to deal with why Daleb's PDC may have burned from poor grid relay contacts.

Let everyone know how it performs when you get it running again This Thread worth a lot with those pics Thank you

Mine used to do that when it had about 60,000 on it. I was on a long road trip and would stall out the engine when dropped in gear and hot but not overheated. I started coasting in neutral and go into gear when coasting. Even barely moving helped a lot and not stall the engine. Later it went away after about 5 times doing that.

Thank you that is a good read. I bookmarked it after getting only about halfway thru. I will read it again too to make sure I understand well. hdpwipmonkey, are you using SSR for your lift pump?

Your lucky... Dripley gets the blisters as usual, but looses all his feathers so neighbors are out with yard blowers.

So an alternative solid state relay is more reliable and has no contacts? Wondering..... how then does it do the switching without some sort of mechanical aspect to it?

I read somewhere that fuel pressure has to be 7-9 p.s.i. for the engine to start and higher pressures will cause a hard start condition. I also read the ECM controls this by rapid on/off pulses in the circuit to slow the lift pump pressure down for easy starts. After the engine is running the ECM knows to keep a steady voltage to power the lift pump or in our case, to trigger the relay used to power the lift pump off the battery. If this is true shouldn't we be changing the lift pump relays more often, often enough to keep the contacts in new condition? As I understand it, the constant use of a relay has a greater chance of poorly connecting, burned contacts from frequent arching between the contacts on every open and closing.

Daleb, Another item keeps ringing my thoughts.... you said the wipers came on by themselves even though the switch was off. Something is crossed there in that circuit causing it to get power when it shouldn't be powered up. My experience has been that when a switch gets old and worn it almost always fails to go on into the on position. so somewhere it may be getting power from another source after the switch. Have you looked into the wires running down the steering column? I don't like the added P/O fuse panel you talked about with the old circuit that it should have eliminated, but is still active because you found the old circuit fuse still there. Something isn't right .... try to find the reason that's been added and is still there. What's hard for me to understand is how failing burned contacts in a grid heater relay can burn my fuseable links to the starting ignition circuit(s) that are wired a few feet away. Just now learning that excess heat will do it's damage and show up at the weakest point in the circuit. I wonder if the P/O had this same problem from burned poorly connecting grid relay contacts and tried bypassing something he did not fully understand.

Make sure its not something else before jumping into sending off your ECM. I'm wanting to know..... is you lift pump powered by the batteries and triggered by the factory lift pump connection on a relay? Or is it still hooked up to the factory lift pump connection?

I'll be right over.... no sense letting it go to waste.

You know one cold morning the fuseable links melted on my 12 valve truck. I didn't have enough time to figure out why so after replacing the links I disconnected the grid heaters because thats what I suspected caused it. I never had a problem for years after that running the truck for years without the grids. Daleb, I want to thank you for sharing what you have found so far. Its prompted me to make that ground better on both my 2nd gens. You know..... I think age and gradual deterioration of the electrical system in general can cause a sudden particular problem to show up. Of course I'm not 100% sure on that. So I try to keep my trucks pretty clean in the electrical dept anyway.

I have a hard time understanding...... You did maintain your trans with regular fluid changes and you got around 280 K out of your stock trans, is that right? And your saying the tractor fluid helped it go longer even though it already had a lot of miles before you started using it? Is that right? T.I.A

X 2 That should get the tree sap and be a sticky It's just like the other day when my truck wouldn't start because of the cold, I reached under the hood and hooked up the grid heaters without putting the nut in place needed fo make a tight connection. After starting the truck with the grids I went to pull the ring terminal off the battery clamp. Man that thing was hotter than pistol. I will never do that again.

I'm thinking the steering brace won't have anything to do with the problem your having.... I think it's like Evan says, that you should purge the air out of the fluid lines. Watch the level and add as needed.

I like stock powered with all the reliability mods.

Thanks Dripley.... I never knew that. Sometimes I see a thread started with not much response and so I want to help, but don't know everything about it.

Dripley, remember...... ''slow and deliberate'', so no loose ends each step of the way. You don't want to skip something just so you can hear it run by evening boss. I know how it is when your so close to get your wings flapping again.