JAG1

Raptor does insert a fine mesh screen inside the inlet side of their pumps. It will clog if not a filter on the suction side or just pull it out using the tip of a screw, but you need a prefilter for sure. Just don't know about AirDog set up. No doubt air is getting in from somewhere. Something in the system is letting it in from the suction side perhaps, but I would check everything. Even all filters. Make sure factory filter cap is tite to 25 ft lbs with the gasket set in right. I've heard those push locks can be a problem so with my air in the system troubles I started improving everything and getting rid of those and reclamping/ tightening clamps, everything. I was seeing slow improvements till finally I got it.

Whenever I hear a sound like that I give the tensioner a small shot of oil. If the sound goes away you've found the problem. Since I have had to replace belt tensioners more often than anything else on a old 12 valve I drove for 20 years, that has become the first thing to do when there is an unusual sound. Never assume the worse with a Cummins its most often something simple. I put near 500 k on that same old engine

Dirt sucked against the fuel inlet and collected inside the fuel sump kit? What lift pump? Clogged inlet screen to lift pump?

Just a thought...... try running with the fuel tank cap off you may have a bad tank vent.

Thanks w-t. and thank you too. IBM mobile as you say, is one smart guy... just don't ever sass him back at camp or you'll find out just how smart. You'll reget it the rest of your vacation. he he. Its just I have a difficult time holding two wires together while waiting for enough heat to flow with the solder. On Edit; I could tie the two together using some ss grizzly hair size wire I found on a job. I hate making a beautiful connection and realize I forgot the dang shrink tube

I copied down the wire mods your doing So I have a reference while under the hood. Going to make a run down to the marine supply for wire. Do you know of any butt connectors that don't have the plastic sleeve over the top and are perforated to accept solder after crimping. Suppose I could crimp a short piece of copper to hold while soldering. Also my soldering gun is only 125 watts... acts like it will only heat hair size wire as I tried holding on there and did not do anything. Man I love that alternator... like a real piece of honest equipment. From my reading I knew not to fall for a lot of them with all the claims. One final question... would it help at all by running a wire from the Lift pump housing to ground?

Best advice I can give is to check everything thoroughly after every rainstorm to find any leaks before rot sets in. This way you will get to know everything about your new unit. It would be rare to not ever find a leak on an rv sometime, so you need to be vigilant on practicing that. Any changes to the outside however minute should looked into. Also watch the window drain weep holes at the bottom of ea. window. When those clog with moss or dirt they cause water to run down (sometimes inside the wall making it difficult to detect). Often it will pool enough undetected water in the lower reaches of the unit until you find damage. Any changes in flooring or even how a cabinet door has shifted should be studied as to why. Dealers do not divulge everything and sometimes keep information proprietary as to how to repair or get specialty parts, so it's real good to be friends with an independent repair shop who you can tip you off to his sources and how toos in the business. My guy has helped me save around 900 plus so far and I always tip him just a little. His advice and help has been fantastic and set me straight on several things where the dealer made it confusing hoping to make me resort to their repair facility. BTW, the best idea is to get bug screen covers over every appliance exhaust vent. This so important since bugs can ruin a burner inside and they make those factory made ss screens for just about any brand.

Mopar Man mentioned this in a phone conversation saying that deterioration of the relays or grids, when our trucks get a bit older, causing excessive amperage draw are two possible reasons the alternator diodes start getting hot and burning. Now we know about a further combined effect from poor grounding of the alternator. Another concern I have is the 4 sensor ground wires connected by only heat shrink tubing with the wires just laying on a main ground wire inside the harness right in front of the injection pump. There are no crimped connectors other than the 4 wires being squeezed by shrink tubing. See pics on Turbo Diesel Register forum under Second Gen Engine and Transmission. Thread topic is,'' 1999 3500 w/ TC Lock Unlock Problem''. Look at posts 11-15. Mopar Man says no big deal but it did solve this guys transmission hunting even after 25,000 miles. Sorry, I tried to do a link but didn't work.

i'm pointing at a great sticky article up there Thank you W-T. In talking with W-T on the phone last Thursday, I think there is a whole other aspect that is related to our Lift Pumps from Raptor/ Air Dog. Just have to wait till he gets some rest for the next chapter.

Dripley is that for parking lot catch basins and rain drains? It's cool lookin work anyway! Where I have to tear that house down there is a nice drop off with a canyon on the place. Well when we did some logging last time we half buried all the cedar branches, a huge pile, and mixed them with dirt. In just a few years that pile rotted all away. It was big... really big and now its gone. You can see where I'm going with this, lol, but we would have to separate out everything and only bury the torn out wood framing.

Hello new member .

It bolts right up but I had to change the wire terminals a little bit to go to the Denso unit on my 02. Now both trucks are Denso alternators.

I like how they do it out there better as it should be monitored with each building getting demoed not each load you take. Used to let us burn a place by keeping the fire 10 ft x 10 ft. Just keep feeding the fire as it gets ripped apart only someone hid .22 ammo in one house. We all ran like hell on that job. Another one was an old barn and a nice chain saw rolled out of the bucket on the fire. My brother grabbed it so fast it was fine.

Now I see... certainly inside side of the frame for best protection, but perhaps running along the passenger side staying away from fuel lines and tank?

Just make sure the insulation sheathing is rated for oils and you tie it well enough to stop all rubbing. I also think about some type of wire protection jacket like the flexible split plastic they sell at auto parts stores if it will come large enough to help cover the wire size. I have seen some great items at a big rig store for truckers. There is a lot of high amp switches and associated electrical items there too.

I have to tear down an old 70's house but the amount of asbestos tests required to have the dumpsters emptied at the Government run Waste station make it harder. We have gotten 4 tests done, each sample costs $48 bucks. We still need 4 more after I got the correct information from the dumpster company. Makes it difficult when they have to wait in line while each load is inspected and all inspection reports are looked at. If any items can't be identified as having a test they will turn you down until it gets tested and comes up negative for asbestos. Yet we can drive 20 miles further and dump at a county run dump with no questions asked. Oh well.....

Mount with a spring loaded cable. When thief comes along trying to steal it the BB gun behind the grill shoots him in the belly.

I swear Dripley if you glue that to your truck the guys at the job be laughin' so hard they won't be able to work. Its perfect.

Right at 60 the wings spread out.

I had to readjust mine. I loosened up the bracket bolts and put a car jack underneath with some padding. Got it pretty close. Also the plastic underneath was getting loose so I removed all the rusty small screws and thru bolted with stainless screws. I looks good and tight now. I think you'll recognize Dripleys truck by the hood ornament... Its a taxadermied chicken on there.

Isn't that lumber used by Transgender contractors Sometimes they make chicken breast with it

I keep wanting to call Oreillys' as ''Oilys'' Auto parts. Don't know if this is of any interest, but I have a flatbed that has the fill neck on the bed rail which makes it harder to pour in 2 stroke oil. I used to use cardboard paper towel tubes inside the paper towel rolls. This helps pour by having a slope with a cardboard tube and later use it to help start the fire in the woodstove. Having done this many times using other than Supertech, was never a problem. However, by chance I decided to try the Supertech brand. What is interesting, is how quickly the Supertech soaked thru the cardboard and made a mess on my hands. Was interesting in that it seemed awful thin like oil. Anyway walmarts are too far so I use the 'Oilys' brand which seems better to me for this reason. Who really knows?! You get a condition called, 'Potatoe Skin' from it.

Have an adjustable on the 02, so I'm going with the stock one on the 01 to compare the two. The 01 just got a new OEM at 200Kmiles.

I worked on a newer McMansion that had the raindrains higher in the ground than the crawl space drain. They were connected together so Guess where all those Oregon rains drained and the owners kept sayin, "we have a mold problem for some reason".

Working with good stuff .... always seems like a common denominator that it is always easier to work with.