JAG1

Well I'm back in action again....going to build a nice small home out in the rural county with a new septic system. Unfortunatly the new drainfield has to go to an upper pasture and be pumped. It will have an alarm by code if there's a malfunction. I get real crabby when I see cheap az pipe getting buried underground. We'll be cruising with nothing but all the good stuff including the rain drain system..

I'm struggling with my personal body plumbing but the plunger don't work on that either Gee I wonder why... Maybe better delete this post boss

Where you holding the plunger right when I called? That's all you needed at that moment.

I did not know there is a DC current type. Sounds good.

Be a nice one to have a heat exchanger blow heat off the exhaust over to near the lift pump that you can pull a cable and shut it off for summer. I'm always thinking outside the oil drum.

Good well thought out system.

If I remember right Dave had his L/P hooked up to the charge wire on the alternator for awhile. Eventually it was more than chicken feed to get and find a good ECM after getting on bad one from the rebuilders.

as in chicken farm?

Mine was definitly air... When I would rev it up right after the fuel pressure would bounce higher than the average pressure. It was weird.

I found that everyday I spend money on the truck, if I take the wife out to supper in it she never complains about the money.

Run a hot wire to the lift pump to see if it runs would be my next step.

Mike, I was thinking no power to the relay because he did not know about having to bump the starter.

I'm not sure on the 04's but it should work only when you just bump the starter... should run the pump for 25 seconds or so. After engine starts it runs the pump almost continuously. When I had the intank lift pump I could bump the starter, open the fuel cap and listen down there for the lift pump running. You will have to reprime the whole fuel system to get it started. Did you fill up the fuel filter before closing? Welcome to the best truck community in the world Well... its a good place to hang around anyway

Sometimes the oil leak is coming from the power steering pump resevior cap and can't be seen running down the side so looks like an oil leak. If your lucky like I was with the same area leaking it turned out to be old fluid that behaved poorly by expanding and running out over the top under the fill cap. More problems can happen with expansion using synthetic P/S fluid so I used organic fluid and flushed the system and the problem went away My fuel pressure also was erratic, jumping up/ down swinging back and forth after the 1/2'' line kit upgrade. I had a combination of problems. Mainly because I did not drop the tank and was not cleaned of debri and with 190,000 miles dirt was reducing flow at the tip of the new draw straw. This also caused the new lift pump to suck in air at one or two of my incorrect fuel fittings on the suction side of the L/P causing the pressure bounce. Air also was accumulating at the top of my prefilter head or bracket making it more difficult for the L/P to draw consistent fuel. I could tell I had a dirt clog because after I removed a hose and blew 10 lbs of air back in the tank the fuel pressure would go up to the proper level, but not last long. Make sure you don't have a problem with the tank vent too. Try running with the fuel cap off to see if any improvement.

The article that I provided a link to up several posts back, says' by its very nature a higher amp alternator will produce a higher amount of AC ripple', but fails to mention a very important point made by Michael Nelson who educated me on the phone today....that a higher amp alternator does not generate the amount of heat, causing the diodes to burn or melt, because it has a greater number of diodes not having to work as hard. I remember reading years ago that its always best to get an alternator with twice the amount of amps required for the system loads.

On my first gen I burnt all Fuseable links when starting on a cold morning. The grid heaters were connected and the truck had many miles,many years on it. I replaced the fuseable links, but before going back to work, I suspected the grid heater caused the problem so I disconnected them. The thing that Mike brings to my attention is the fact that the fuse links never melted again after disconnecting the grids.

Michael Nelson, site owner always professes to not add any grounds that help mask the underlying problem. Again, not add band aids that will help mask making a good diagnosis of the alternator. Of course I agree. On the other hand, I'm hearing of so many with unacceptable levels of the damaging A/C ripple, almost common, its tough not to wonder. Remember too that higher amp alternators carry added High frequency ripple.

My thought is that the diesel engine is more capable of causing shudder in the taller gears since every time a cylinder fires torque to a turning crank it places more stress on a more slowly turning trans than if in faster turning trans or lower gears. Problem is the fun of feeling the torque the cummins is capable of even in taller gears.........

Leave me a little I think its worth looking into if it helps save electronics. Sounds like it can be adapted since it is basically a voltage regulator and the article did mention diesels

Here is a very interesting article. I hope the link works. It talks about a new type Voltage regulator called 'FET' they are working on. It may be that it can apply to our trucks. Apparently its not just failing diodes or stator wires, just having a high amperage alternator puts out more A/C ripple by it's very nature. So this maybe a solution. TooSeptST07.pdf

I'm pointing at a sticky post above Thank you. Beside an alternator with double capacity, what other recommendations do you have to help upgrade the system? Are you speaking about what is called a true triple K alternator? Is that the one?

I see what your saying, but when they first roll out for the market let the guniea pigs try them out for like about the first 10 years. After 20 the old technology will become a desired classic and a nice second gen Cummins will be worth 40,000 bucks. LOL.

I feel the same way.... nothing will out do better than a Sober, alert and on the ball person in a nice truck. You wouldn't catch me in one of those and I'd bet because of the cheap solder used, they have a limit on how long they can be used on the road. Silver does not cost all that much to use in circuitry.

Thanks for sharing. I had better keep my opinion to myself on this one.

Nice job. You know you could make a kit and sell them on this site.