JAG1

You know when dripley built the one your at because they all have a restroom specifically for Cummins owners only

Now you got me driving to all your jobs going dumpster diving.... I like how you describe the sound of the Fords, they sound blown up every time I hear one. Thanks Michael, That's the one I am getting then. Now to get it cheaper than you jus soo you feel good

Thanks. A good tip. In the last 13 mos. I've dumped 7100 bucks into my first gen with a recent injector change, rebuilt VE pump and new door hinges. It's a pretty tight truck now and better than a lot of them for sale out there. Ready for another 400000 miles. I hope.

So does it afford that nice coveted Cummins sound? 3 inch is good for a stock truck and a fuss budget like me.

So what brand muffler did you go with? I love that unmistakable mellow Cummins sound. I think it makes Ford guys covet the Cummins.

Me too I'm lucky to have a 24 valve. Just went out and looked and realized I don't have a clue . I thought I could help cause I just changed em on my 12 valve. It's different except for the copper sealing washers on the bottom of the injector body. That is the same. Injector retaining nut torque specs should be similar so 28 foot pounds may be a bit soft, but, must make sure all old ones came out with the old injector and new ones did not fall off before inserting them into the head.

Did you get new sealing washers on the return line banjos? They are a double washer that sleeves over both sides of the female banjo bolt hole. Torque to 6 ft lbs. each. Also injector retaining nuts get torqued to 44 ft lbs.. Did you put a dab of grease at the bottom of each injector to hold injector sealing washer? You know, not fall off somewhere when you drop them in place! Teflon tape is a big no no. The injectors are sealed down below near where the tip is. The washers are around the tip and the retaining nut pulls the washer down tight to the head down below. The return lines crossing to each injector is sealed by those double washers. Make sure all six injector sealing washers came out with the old injectors. I'M SORRY THE ABOVE IS ONLY APPLICABLE TO THE 12 VALVE ENGINE. Sorry HEXORZ.

Every time I have had a problem that seemingly reaches a block wall with the Gov't. I find out who the supervisor is. If he/ she cannot help me I find out who their supervisor is and keep going until I find someone that can make decisions. I don't know if it would work but I have done this several times and found good people that can understand a situation that doesn't fit in the maze of beauracracy.

Yes, you can have new alternator and still be putting out too much AC voltage. Most shops don't test for it either.

My trucks got around 90,000. It doesn't hunt but sometimes won't shift into 4th. Sort of like it's stuck so I have to either let off the pedal or click the cruise control down one notch to get it to go in. So no hunting and no high ac voltage levels. Just loves to stay in third sometimes. I have the Fluke volt meter too. The trans service was due so I had them change out some electronic sensors but it is still the same as before. So I don't know what it is. It works fine except it loves that third gear sometimes. There is a way to lock up the TC electronically on a switch but I think it will ruin the trans if you let it shift in lock up. IBM Mobile has a good set up on his. He tows a fifth wheel too. Mike Nelson, which sensor is most likely to cause the erratic shift? Could it be a bad speed sensor too?

I think LMC is pretty Good. I just changed out the lower hinges on my 1st gen doors today and they are good quality. Not some nock off ,they are Canadian made. Now no more whistling doors and they close nice without pulling off the inside panel.

Welcome to the forum Citation. I would like an a gauge in the cab showing AC noise, are there any sensitive enough to give an accurate readings?

I think the scale changes when you push the yellow button. I just checked mine and that's right, the decimal point moves so you can read even thousanths of a volt. I got mine off craigslist. A model 77 series II for 40 bucks. They are nice piece of equipment.

I think it might be the schools that are manufacturing these things and sendin' out all over.

A lot of these libs seem to have cookie cutter agenda talking about what they all want to hear... nothing original like a creative well thought out problem solver would. Seemingly more interested in maintaining a division in our country, they only skilled at twisting truth to incite the younger protestors and convince themselves, we hard working are, somehow the enemy. It is amazing to me to hear that speech based on racism... just like some obsessive that cannot get off the Lib bandwagon simply because she has no real answers. It may in some way reveal that she herself is prejudiced and needs to move onto some real problem coherent solving thoughts of her own.

Okay I'll take more then but right now the clams are almost extinct. With Christmas, bad weather, truck repairs, 3 clients needing a break....... Actually it's getting back to normal somewhat now and will take more short sleevers too and I like smaller less expensive logo too.

I'll take three long sleevers also but the problem is I need medium size. So what to do? When I look in the stores, medium size is sold out a lot of times, with Large and extra large still hanging on the rack.

I just have one vote so it's whatever all you others like, but, I like a small logo on front left or right side. Cost less if small and simple. I always need long sleeve shirts cause elbows hurt in cold.

Dave, does yours have that real nice unmistakable sound of the Cummins? Not loud at all but just that nice mello roll of the Cummins engine? How long did it take you? I'm looking at doubling the time since getting old, I get all the tools under there, creeper myself in place and forget what I'm supposed to be doing

You'll find it. It's light grey connecting one conductor about number 8 gauge. It is a clip together factory connector with a spade connector inside. Unlock it and see if it's tight or loose when you pull it apart. Look for corrosion. It runs to the PCM. Don't forget the PCM ground to firewall toward drivers about 4-6 inches away.

Maybe it's because more Trump supporters have to show up for their jobs. And the others? Well, lets just say they may have more freeload time.

My first gen has a flat bed and was difficult to fill with fuel because the fill tube is almost level as if you need a block of wood to drive over with the left rear wheel and tilt the bed some. After years of trouble filling the tank (had to fill very slow) I cut my ball out of there and it fills much better. This gets me to wondering... up your flipped in a roll over crash isn't the ping pong ball going to float in the fuel and therefore keep the fill neck open? My trucks been neutered I guess you could say.

There is a number 8 gauge wire coming off the passenger battery that hangs down somewhere down below between the battery and the alternator. It has a light grey factory connector on it and goes around the air box to the PCM. Sometimes that factory connector goes loose and does not fit snug. I would check that one. Check the wire harness to the PCM make sure no corrosion and is plugged in nice and tight. Also check the PCM ground to the firewall next to the PCM. Sometimes the weather stripping for the hood right above the PCM allows rain to drip down around the PCM. So you want to check that too. I had missing weatherstrip so I had to make a small berm of caulking to redirect the water toward the passenger door and not drip on the PCM.

Since the symptoms come and go like that I would say it's not a component failure but a loose connection somewhere. I would try wiggle jiggle the wires and harnesses one at a time to see if you can make it work again or not work again. Someone watching the gauges while doing that may help you narrow it down.