JAG1

Cool story about your goings on David. You are lucky to still have kids at home. I miss mine all the time. Let me know if I can come see the Bronco when done..... That's a great project.

That is impressive. I tend to wear mine faster hauling the heavy camper, about 3,000 lbs fully loaded.

Probably the best thing to do is once you get a rebuilt is just order Larry B's diode bridge and install right away. But I've never taken apart an alternator except a simple one on my JD tractor. I have no idea whats involved if brushes fall out or what making tough to do.

Be careful with it he's got everything copywrited

Yes I had to go out and buy a good Fluke meter to check mine. Found it on Craigslist for 40 bucks for a model 77. The old meter, a cheapie, would read the same on every vehicle

Just don't drink IBMs' coffee or you'll really be wired.

Need to run the pump off the battery so that when the pump ever goes bad(excessive amp draw) it won't hurt the ECM. Using a relay the ECM can control the pump relay and then the pump runs off the battery when the relay kicks on. Hoping others will chime in on this subject too.

Nothing like having a nice truck to go with it. Looks nice for sure. Now you are ready to meet up with all the rest of us at the 2017 full eclipse in western Idaho, Right?

How is the fuel pressure? Are you putting in the 2 cycle oil in the tank of fuel to return this new ULSD back to the higher lubricity required for the older VP44 injection pumps? Do you have fuel flow issues? Check battery and other grounding connections too.

Dave how do you deal with condensation in winter? Do you use a dehumidifier system? I got a lemon when new. Surprising to find so many problems that steming from lack of quality control. I once thought I got everything fixed ,but more things showed up, like a structural failure from crushing under it's own weight. I never gave up believing eventually I'd have a good unit though, so I kept going since my work was better than the dealer. That was a tough one getting in and out of a storage basement for 2 days to properly structure failing basement sides.

Mike is right about new RVs and some of the bugs. I bought new and had 4 leaks I can remember right off. The first year of ownership you have to be very proactive. Every rain storm I had to look inside uncommonly seen places for leaks. It was an education. But once you chase all the bugs it is great having an old reliable.

My 12 valve with the second water pump on it, same pump as the 24 valve I believe, has almost 450 k on the truck. Can't remember when it got its second pump. A long time ago is all I know. I think it's on it's third idler pully though.

Mine has done it twice under somewhat light accel while hauling the heavy camper and gave it a noticeable clunck sound. I scares my bank book . So I'm wondering what to do also. Might be a bad transgender switch for all I know about transmissions.

Can you describe 'Flaring' shift'? I might be having the same issue that just showed up on my trans.

Thank you CSM. It is a .22 mag Golden Boy rifle that I enjoy a lot.

Are you supposed to always use the wire brush inside the barrel? Seems that the steel wire brush would be a bit harsh on the boring. Do you guys use a brass brush instead? I just ran 15 patches or so thru the barrel till they came out clean in the end and then ran one back and forth with the lube oil. Is that right? Thanks in advance.

I heartily approve that this be placed in the article section. Thanks Me78.

x2 here

put sticker on truck that says, 'Warning, Global Position Locator hidden on board'. Move out to the country with all the other local rednecks with guns for neighbors. Put hidden fuel shut off valves. Or have a mock up doll of Hillary Clinton in the seat.

Dave you'd have nails and screws from every contractor stuck to your hood if you did the magnets too. 'No need to go to the hardware store, just look on Daves' hood

You are correct Buzzin he needs to stay pre 97 so they fit. They are standard rather than metric. That's good anyhow since 95-97 Ford is the only Alcoa made wheels for ford.

The first and second set are not the Alcoas. Stay with 95-97 8 lug ford rims. that is the only years for forged wheels with the good metallurgy. The process for a forged wheel is so expensive Ford quit doing it after 97. You can still buy them new for $280 ea. wheel but many folks don't know what they are so usually around 200 bucks on Craiglist. I bought 3 sets ranging from 75- 200 for a set of 4.

95-97 Ford Rims here. Made by Alcoa. Out by about an inch or so. Way I understand it these are the only years Ford had Alcoa forged rims put on the pickups. You can tell cause there are no brake cooling holes in line with the lug holes. Also another way is to look at the concrete mixer trucks front wheels. They are identicle to the Alcoa Ford rims only larger. I think the aluminum color on a forged wheel versus cast wheel looks better too.

Most fun part I did on my house is the part I did without a permit. it was on my new shop.....I got a final on Friday and got the second story loft floor done on Saturday.

Free is a very happy price esp. when it is the expensive stuff like that.