Doubletrouble

Looks like that was already done. I would assume they cleaned the head before doing all the work. Those deposits would be since the head work was completed correct? To me this looks a little suspicious, why is this so jagged? Does not look normal to me but I've never had a Cummins apart before. Just my $.02

Was wondering if anyone has enabled the high idle feature in their ecm lately. I know you have to take it to a dealer or find someone with a smarty to get it done. Mainly wondering what a dealer might charge. Thinking I'd like to get this done at some point but a little afraid of what a dealer may charge me. I've been on and off if work lately due to a torn meniscus in my right knee so kinda pinching pennies at the moment.

Welcome! You've come to the right place for info on boosting the output of your truck along with maintenance, repair, and anything else that may come up on a 20 year old truck. Lots of knowledge and experience here and all willing to help a fellow Cummins owner out.

It's affecting everything. I have ordered some things that should have been quick. Like the 150amp breaker for my truck. Ordered it on Amazon. It left somewhere in southern michigan, went north (I'm in ohio) then got sent to Wichita Kansas! Then it finally made its way back to me in ohio. Took 9 days to make a 50 mile trip. Crazy! That's just the latest example, I've seem similar before. Doesn't make any sense to me at all.

I like the little trick for getting old ball joints out. How do you explain: Assuming that the ball joint did not last that long before, what's the change?

I just wonder, is it worth the extra money to buy the napa part when the Moog from RA is also lifetime and less than half the price. Although it would be easier to obtain a replacement from a local store rather than an online retailer.

The Moog part just above it lists for $84.79 and is also lifetime limited warranty. Wonder how many different companies REALLY make these and what the differences are.

Thank you. Looks like limited lifetime warranty, then in another 150k miles i get another, lol Looks like i have some work to do. Check the track bar and replace if needed, still have to test and diagnose my grid heater low voltage issue as well. {from another thread} things keep adding up. It will be one thing at a time with xmas right around the corner.

any idea what the warranty is on the one in the link? it just said "download" , i didn't want to download a pdf for warranty info.

Not sure how a true 4 link would work under the front with a solid front axle. You still need to keep the axle located correctly under the vehicle for safe handling. Off road it would probably be ok like you mentioned rock crawling. I don't understand why the designers would have used the ball joint on the driver's side though. Not a very heavy duty link point there but they probably went for ease of install on the assembly line. Seems like a weak link to me. Wasn't able to get under it today, been raining/snowing and cold all day. Miserable weather, good day to stay inside.

I have seen a 3ed gen conversion, is that similar to what you fabricated? The conversion kit comes with a bracket that bolts on to give you the proper mounting point for the bushing end where the ball joint is now.

@Mopar1973Man, have you ever replaced the track bar or bushings? With the miles you have I would assume so. If it's the bushing would a polyurethane be a better replacement?

Even if they fixed the bridge what's the chances it would be right? Lol

I will report what I find. So far this has been an isolated incident, that will make it difficult to diagnose.

@Tractorman, my tires are stick size (265/85/16 I think) and no lift. Truck is mainly stock as delivered. She does have nearly 150K on her so I imagine things are beginning to wear out. I'll check all the steering linkage and track bar for wear or slop and see what I find. @dripley, your right. The first time is does scare the living crap out of ya. Shook my phone out if the little cubby and spilled some of my soda in the cup holder. I have seen poly bushing kits for these trucks, any pros or cons to those? Just curious. Also, tires are wearing evenly, they were new when I got the truck, might have about 12K on them now. Cooper tires, highway tread. Don't remember the name on them other than cooper.

So, as the title says, I had my first experience with the dreaded death wobble early this morning on my way home from work. I was on a rough city street that I've driven many times. Running about 40-45mph and hit a really rough patch then the front end went bat sh*t crazy. I tapped the brakes and slowed her down to about 20 and it stopped. Made it the rest of the way home with no issue. Been doing some searching as to the cause and it seems there are multiple reasons as to why it did this. Most seem to point to the trackbar and/or the bushing. I have checked the tierod end of the bar before and it seemed tight. I'll have to check again to be sure. Any other advise here? Anyone else have experience with a diagnosis?

Yeah, you've explained that to me before. I just didn't understand how to set that up. I tried but failed 😔. Lol I'm not to computer savvy, I get by but some things still elude me.

Those are some good savings over regular price. I should talk to my local napa store about an account. They have asked if I wanted one several times. Might take them up on it. We buy plenty of stuff for not just vehicles but we also have a small farm, several tractors and other equipment to maintain. Most if the tractors are antique and napa is pretty good about locating parts for them as well.

I may need at tutorial on how to do a decent signature. I can't seem to figure it out I'd like to have a pic in it like mike, couldn't figure it out though

I will check and clean the contacts and check voltage drop as well. I'm thinking that these relays are oem so probably wearing out but I also don't like replacing stuff that is good.

@Mopar1973Man, do you think that the sycro failures, even though defective, would have lasted longer behind an engine with less hp/tq than what your putting out? Just curious. Also, to touch on the napa debate. I used to use autozone exclusively but their quality has gone to crap. Advance auto doesn't seem to be much better anymore. I tend to use napa when I need better more heavy duty parts and so far have had no issues. I've known several people that worked at stores other than napa that explained how the lifetime warranty works. The parts are cheap enough that they can afford to hand over 2 or 3 for free when they break. Replacement part quality has gone down hill in the years I've been wrenching. That's just my experience, not trying to provoke anything.

Yes sir.

Beautiful pics! I'm getting to the point though that I don't care for the cold so much.lol Checked my ac noise again with a different meter. I had .019-.023 fluctuation.

So in preparation for winter I've been checking and testing some things to avoid issues in the cold. It has been cool enough for the grids to cycle so I thought I would test a bit to avoid later issues. I checked for voltage at the grid heaters in the intake horn. I had 10.33v DC. That didn't sound right, why not 12+ volts so I checked at the battery- 12.5 volts (engine not running). Checked at the hot side of both relays-12.5 volts. Then checked grid side of relays-10.33 volts. I'm going to assume this voltage drop at the relays is not normal or acceptable? Is this showing the contacts being worn and or cruddy inside the relay? Time to replace? Thanks.

Nope, not in my case. I was very lucky, when I bought the truck it had a brand new set of 6 (dually) cooper tires on her. Didn't have more than 1000 miles on them, all factory size per door sticker. It may have had oversize tires before that, no way of me knowing.