Doubletrouble

I've seen winter covers at various venders that cover the intercooler and the radiator. It hangs in front of both but behind the grill. Wouldn't that do the same?

I'll be watching this one as well. I recently changed my heater core and evap, cleaned up the HVAC box and checked seals. Once all back together I get about 120° at the floor vent, engine at temp driving down the road. Wondering if the T-stat needs replaced. If I stop at a red light the temp gauge drops pretty quickly to about 170-180° but comes back up once I start driving again. It sure don't hold the heat if I stop and idle long. @Mopar1973Man pointed out that when I did the heater core and evap that I did not flush the cooling system and possibly got some crud into the new heater core. Could be a possibility. Here lately with the temps dropping some I've been running with a piece of cardboard between the intercooler and radiator. Seems to help a little.

At this point I don't think it's leaking from the return. I'm going to get under the truck tomorrow and inspect closer. I did look at the T you referred to, it's dry as well. I noticed the oil around the exhaust manifold of cylinder #6, that's what I was referring to a possible valve cover. I cleaned the areas with carb cleaner and will inspect those again tomorrow to see if I can tell what's up. It's not a bad leak by any means. Just wondering where it's coming from.

The banjo doesn't seem to be leaking, it has an oil film on it but I don't think that's the source of the leak. Possible valve cover gasket? I have a video but it won't upload, to big. I'll try to screen shot a couple of views from the video and post them. Pass side rear, you can see the exhaust manifold in the pic for reference.

I haven't really made any long trips with mine yet. I did a 300 (approx) mile day once but was pulling my son's 5th wheel camper 150 of them (10k pounds) so hard to tell my highway milage. On normal weeks back and forth to work, mostly state roads between 55-60 and an little highway at 65-70 and I was getting around 17.5 mpg. Close to 500 miles per tank. Not bad for a dually 4x4 and 3.55 gears. I don't wind her up much, usually shift at around 2k to 2200 rpm when empty. Not really trying to get max mpg's.

Good detailed write up and nice pictures to give visual reference. Thank you for the links to the parts needed as well. Very helpful.

Numbers are increasing rapidly here in ohio as well. I'll be honest, I haven't been watching much news on it lately, just googled what our most recent report is. Doesn't look good.

Sorry to hear it has gotten so close, take care and take the steps you need to keep your loved ones safe. It has hit home here as well. 2 weeks ago my uncle (1/2 mile down the road) tested positive and now his son did as well. I am keeping my distance from them for sure. I have also been off work all last week and again all this week for a torn meniscus in my right knee. It's keeping me away from people in general. Just me and the wife here. We go out to do errands but try to make it quick and wear masks.

Not a bad looking truck. I like the front bumper. Bed wiring shouldn't be to hard to fix up.

Seems like you will be a great mentor for him. I'm assuming he is a younger guy? Best to learn from someone's experience than to just toss parts at something and hope and to learn how to properly maintain things is very important. Especially on an older vehicle, like most of our 2nd gens are now 20+ years old. I'm running into that myself a bit. Mine is an '01 and things are starting to wear out, dry out and corrode. Like the return line seals I posted in a different thread. I haven't confirmed yet but I believe they may have a small leak. With nearly 150k on the clock suspension is getting old, shocks are probably going to be in the not so far away future as well. There is alot to maintaining older vehicles, he is lucky to have someone knowledgeable there to assist him.

Ok thanks. I suppose a quick call to DAP and they could probably tell me what size I may need. Going to try to get out today and check thing out a bit. It's a little cold out today and still dealing with my knee issue.

I don't know alot about the ford diesels, I've heard many complain about them for one reason or another. There are a few near me and I notice that they have a weird fluttery whistle sound to them. I'm sure they are not 100% stock but to me the sound a bit funny.

Sooo, looked around on DAP and didn't find what I was looking for. Are the sealing washers 8mm, 12mm or 14mm? I've seen all three sizes. I haven't looked at things yet but if in fact that's what's leaking I want to be sure to get the right parts. I did see a new banjo bolt with seals on another parts site. I suppose I could just replace the bolt as well.

That's doesn't really surprise me much. If the truck has never had a good cleaning it will definitely make a difference in short order. I've done this with a few gassers in the past. Amazing what a bottle of good cleaner can do for injectors sometime. It's not always the answer but they do help from time to time.

Glad you ended up with the truck. Sucks that you "friend" did you that way though. That's sad. Don't need friends like that. Looking forward to the pics

Lmao 😅😅😅😂🤣🤣🤣

I've read his article, just haven't got it done yet. I will see if I can attend to that soon. Where would the best place be to get the sealing washers for the banjo both if that is what's leaking?

Yesterday I noticed a few drops of something on the pavement under the engine towards the rear. After driving home I also noticed a fuel smell once I shut the truck down and got out. This morning I went out with a flashlight to inspect and didn't really see any wet spots other than on the rear of the cylinder head on the passenger side. It's a little damp there. I'm thinking maybe the banjo bolt for the return line? Looks like it might be difficult to get to, anyone know the size off hand? Do I need to remove it and replace the sealing washers or do these commonly vibrate loose from time to time? Also, while inspecting I saw the the center section of the front diff seems to be damp with oil or something. While looking down the front of the engine the crankcase vent bottle is pretty oily as well. Do these overflow if not emptied? I have not touched it since I bought the truck (forgot about it when I did the oil change).

I was also thinking of some kind of screen on the underside of the cowl rather than the filters from Geno's. I like their setup but I guess I'm being cheap. I also need to replace a couple of the funny retaining screws that hold the cowl down and the rubber strip that runs across it. That is missing.

$160 seems high to me as well. I can't see it taking more than 1/2 hour to do it. Wish I knew someone that worked at a dodge dealer or had a smarty. That would be ideal. Get it done for a 6pak. Lol

What @dripley said. I would begin in the order of the torque sequence.

I'm sure they will come up with a way to tax the electrics. Funny thing is I heard they give tax breaks for buying one but them they'll turn around and get it later. Lol. No advantage to it finacially, just make em feel good I guess. I'll keep burning fuel and enjoying my truck.

I found out the other day that the license plates for electric cars in ohio are double what a gasser costs. Kinda messed up, you drive a toy car to save the environment and they nail you for the registration.

I haven't seen anything labeled bio here as of yet. I tend to use the same station to get my fuel. I'll just keep adding the 2cycle like I have been. If it gets cold enough I have some 911 both white and red bottles.

Looking like a used truck lot, lol