Ilikeoldfords

Sorry to revive this old thread. scummins, did you happen to have part numbers for the ranchos you got? I am going to start looking for some shocks on the old truck. I have a 2.5in leveling kit on my truck and want to make sure I get the right shocks.

So there are all these problems with putting leveling kits on, but how about we get back to the original question. Anyone have any good part numbers for shocks they used with there leveling kits? I am in dire need of shocks as well and I have a 2.5 inch level kit in the front.

I would double check pressure with a mechanical gauge before spending much money on anything else. If you still have a problem with the mechanical gauge, I might get on the horn to Fass and see what they say.

Can you see the piston with the injector out? That way you know you are at TDC. I havent actually done it but that is how it made sense to me.

Definitely be looking around for a mechanical gauge. Not really anywhere cheap anymore if you want a good gauge. It almost sounds like you are sucking in air somewhere. Does is start and run good?

Doesnt sound like much of the truck is left. I would look at maybe rebuilding the drive train and putting it in something else. Could make a pretty cool project out of it.

Seems like you would be going against all of your own rules!! Personally I would stick to the mechanicals. You know they work and are rare to fail. Probably cheaper too. Just my thoughts.

You can even get a lighter single disc. My valair is rated for 400 hp. Here it is: http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/valair%20org-fslash-org%20nmu70279-01.htm Very budget friendly as long as your flywheel is still within spec. It really all depends on how much power you want to make. I will tell you that this clutch feels like a stock pedal. Nice and easy.

I went with a valair single disc and it has been awesome. Depending on how much power you want to push, just look for a clutch that is a little above that. The stock clutches are barely enough to hold the stock power, kind of like the auto trannys. I would stick to either valair or southbend though whatever you do. Don't forget to look at some heavier clutch hydraulics as well if you go with a heavier clutch. The stock hydraulics really aren't good for much over a stock clutch and there have been lots of issues with them in the past.

I guess it would depend on if you could find a good donor truck (junk yard ?) or if you are going to have to buy parts. I haven't heard of anyone making a swap kit personally but that doesn't mean anything. If you could find a truck that had all the pedals wiring and hard parts, you might be able to do it pretty easily.

Personally I would go for the spray adhesive. I think it will lay flatter and be less noticeable as a repair.

I think they were just referring to the fact the a vp44 guy wont know what you guys are talking about, or where that adjustment screw is. You are correct the 24v does have the vp44.

I never had any freeze issues with mine and I was in one of the coldest parts of the entire country last winter!! Like Mike said, I think with the engine right there it has enough heat to keep things defrosted. Mine doesn't drip at all either. I always thought if you were able to get any oil out of the ccv mod down the back of the engine, you might have excessive blowby.

Definitely glue them. Or, better yet, thread them. I left mine not glued at first to make sure they would fit. After running for a little while I had some oil accumulation on the fittings closer to the engine. I know that you can get some threaded tubing and that might be the better way to go. That way you can disassemble it later if needed.

Ok. To be sure I borrowed a manometer from the local cummins shop and ran a bunch of tests on the engine, all the time watching the actual blowby pressures. Everything was well in specs according to cummins. Even my cold start up pressures were very much in the green. Now this is all according to Cummins. Everyone might have a different opinion. I just wanted to be sure because like you said W and F, every engine has some blow by. Even new ones do.

Would you even be able to push enough fuel to spool a turbo that big? I am with W and F on this one. I would be looking toward a supercharger for a gasser.

Just as a safety precaution I always check to make sure the airbrake tubing is rated for fuel/oil use. Some is and some isn't. I know the tectran brand of line is not rated for fuel/oil.

Mine doesn't have any blow by either but I do have some play in the turbo. Not enough for the wheel to contact the housing but it does have some movement side to side and a little in and out. Just gotta get the time and money to pull it apart and rebuild it.

I think at the time mine was going through about a quart every 500 miles. I had the seals all fixed up and then it was only going through a quart about every 3000 miles. Over the last few months or so the truck has started to use a lot more oil again, but its not hardly smoking at all. I am suspecting the turbo but I havent pulled it apart yet to find out.

Well, the guy I bought my truck from had the head gone through a little while before I got it. Whoever was doing the work didnt have their spring compressor adjusted correctly and ended up tearing all the valve seals up. The truck would smoke for about 10 minutes after a cold start up and went through a ton of oil. It took a lot of time diagnosing to figure out where all that oil was going. I thought there was a serious internal engine issue when it was just a simple mistake made by a shop.

Oh ok. I think my shop just used compressed air to hold the valves in place. Either way works good I suppose.

From what I have heard, if the ECM goes out it will puke a bunch of codes like that. That would explain the gauge cluster freaking out too. Seems like you have checked out everything else. The one question I have, were you able to check the AC noise coming off of the alternator? If it is high, it may have taken out the ECM. These are just my thoughts. I am sure someone else will pop in too.

Yep. IIRC, most all the push lock fittings are rated for 300 psi without a clamp. That is as much as the rubber fuel line is rated for!! Kind of amazing.

Will you be able to use that tool without pulling the head off? I know that the shop that did mine was able to replace all the seals without removing the head.

From what I have found, you might be able to work it off with a curved pick tool. To be honest, I usually make more of a mess of the line trying to take it off vs just cutting it. Is there any way you can just remove the push lock fitting without removing the line? That is what I have been doing as of late. The line can usually spin on the fitting, it just wont pull off.