Jump to content
Mopar1973Man.Com LLC
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Ground Reference VP44,ECM,PCM,PDC plus TC lock/unlock


Recommended Posts

  • Owner
On 7/7/2018 at 1:46 PM, JAG1 said:

A little bit off topic, real quick..... do I have to remove the starter to get to the ground behind it? And do you have to remove the Driver side battery to get to the ground underneath there also?

 

 

That ground doesn't matter. That is the lift pump and fuel heater ground. 

10 hours ago, notlimah said:

For some reason I still can’t understand WT’s write up so I have yet to do it.

 

After having @IBMobile here and him explaining it to me it's really easy. Start by pull the alternator fuse. Now you've got the alternator charge line and the ground wire running together across the front of the engine basically split the loom open and remove the alternator charge line completely. Then about the same place you'll see the splice of the grounds for the VP44 and ECM come together. This splice is where you cut the heavy 4 guage off and ring terminal to the gear case. Now the alternator charge line is going to go from the alternator to the passenger battery (no fuse) just like a 3rd Gen truck. the heavy ground is completely removed and splice added at the gearcase beside the VP44. Then you can add a ground from the driver side battery to the gearcase.

 

So when you're done you'll only have a high pressure sensor for the A/C and the coolant temp sensor in the loom going around the front of the engine. The split loom will need to be replaced because two heavy gauge wires are gone. 

 

That it in a nutshell... I'm going to see if I can round up the supplies today and get this done as well. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think if y'all were to open the hood and the wiring harness that crosses the front of the engine from the alternator to just above the VP you will see all othe wires and the splice that needs to be dealt with. If you can read @W-T's article and ignore all of the technical info it is much simpler. Just concentrate on the steps for the mod. At least that's how I did it. @IBMobile wrote it up here as little further back in the thread without with out all the tech info. Wish I had taken some photos but did not see the need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not done that part yet but I believe direct is better. I suppose you could ground to the firewall and put another wire from the battery to where you ground it. Very much like the what I did with the splice near the VP. As for a reason why electrically I could not answer that.

 

Y'all can choose to ignore this if you like. Seems somehow I ended up on an old question.

Edited by dripley
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This mod isn't difficult at all. If you can take a laptop or tablet out to your truck and go through the steps. It might help you visualize what needs to be done.  In a nutshell you will be moving the charge line from the PDC to the passenger side battery and moving a ground from the passenger side battery to the driver side battery.  The ground connects to the VP44 along with the wires from the splice right at the VP44.

 

I hope I didn't muddy the water any.  Good luck.

 

L8tr

D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

I did both my trucks and want to say if funds are tight, you can get plenty enough high quality #4 copper wire for two items by reusing the B+ wire you are removing.

 

(1)Enough to do the new location of the charge wire from the alternator to the passenger battery positive post.

 

(2) still plenty to go from the driver side battery to complete the new ground on the back of the gear case.

 

Save the terminals on the ends especially the one that fits on the alternator stud.

 

The wire is copper even though it looks silver colored. That is because it is tinned copper wire. Tinned with solder coating.

 

It is also braided wire which makes it even still, a higher quality cable/ wire.

Edited by JAG1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

The hardest part is scoring and peeling the gob of electrical tape next to the VP without damaging any of the wires. You have to be careful not to go crazy and hurt any wiring in there. It takes some doin, but thats what you have to in order to get the B+ #4 wire free. You can cut that wire out of your way cutting it off either side of the gob of tape because the 2 lengths left are still plenty. I makes it a little easier not having that wire in the way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, JAG1 said:

The hardest part is scoring and peeling the gob of electrical tape next to the VP without damaging any of the wires. You have to be careful not to go crazy and hurt any wiring in there. It takes some doin, but thats what you have to in order to get the B+ #4 wire free. You can cut that wire out of your way cutting it off either side of the gob of tape because the 2 lengths left are still plenty. I makes it a little easier not having that wire in the way.

They sure did use a lot of tape there. Felt like I unwound a half a roll.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay mine started doing the lock and unlock thing from 45 up to 65 I have cleaned my grounds replaced my batteries since one was bad installed a noise isolator it went away for about 2 weeks and is right back to the same thing but worse any help would be awesome 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...