What is the "BEST" engine oil & filter to use and why?

[01cummins4ever]

4 hours ago, leety said:

 

 

 

 

The fella at the parts shop also said something about using a thinner viscosity in winter.  I do go to where it's cold but it's not exactly cold in Los Angeles.  I'm hoping some of you that live in cold climates will know about this first hand.

Unless your continuasly starting your truck at negative 20 or colder I would not bother switching viscosity in the winter, I may see a few temps like that in the winter but usually don’t last long. Generally in the cold of winter I will just plug the block heater in for a couple hours  before starting and that should be enough to get things flowing smoothly.

4 hours ago, leety said:

 

 

 

I tend to agree on the recommendation from all the post above. You won’t go wrong with what you have.

[leety]

28 minutes ago, Sycostang67 said:

I run the Delo 15/40 and wix combo as well without issues.  One thing I found is that you don't have to completely remove the drain plug from these trucks to drain the oil.  The plug is designed to allow the oil to flow out when it is unscrewed a bit.  The first time I changed the oil on my truck I pulled the plug completely out and it was like a garden hose blasting into my pan.  It quickly overwhelmed the hole in my 12qt catch pan and proceeded to overflow all over my driveway.  Since then I have installed one of those quick release drain valves on the pan and I have upgraded to a 24qt catch can as well.  The drain valve is really nice when I'm getting a sample to send to Blackstone. 

Thanks, that's super good to know.  Where did you get that quick release drain valve for the pan?  And which one did you get?

[Sycostang67]

12 minutes ago, leety said:

Thanks, that's super good to know.  Where did you get that quick release drain valve for the pan?  And which one did you get?

 

I ordered mine from genosgarage.  https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ftv-7b/drain-valves

[AH64ID]

I’ve never seen an engine with a K&N filter that doesn’t have signs from poor filtration, despite what nearly every K&N user claims. Just not something I’ve personally witnessed, but I have seen lots of indications, including my own vehicles in the past, to point me away from K&N. Oil and such aside, hold one up and you can see light thru it, that’s not a filter that’s a screen door. I want dust to stay out of my motor, not bugs. 

 

 

As far as oil I think Delo 400 and Valvoline Premium Blue are about as good of a dino oil as you can get, if you live in a climate that supports dino oil. 

 

When I ran delo after my rebuild the time to build pressure below 30°F was substantially lower than with a synthetic. I ran it as cold as 10°F and didn’t like the time to build pressure. I monitor pressure on the drivers side above the ECM so it’s a slower reading than the filter head, but the difference between dino and synthetic is BIG.  

 

At -25°F my amsoil AME 15w-40 builds pressure faster than delo 400 at +10°F. 

 

So, depending on where you live delo may not be a good year round oil. I also think synthetic is better for these newer higher power motors, and oldet modified motors when towing hard. 

 

I also have a video around somewhere with oil in mason jars at -10°F. It’ll make you a believer in synthetic for cold temps. 

 

In terms of oil filters nothing touches the DBL7349/ELF7349. They are 100% at 20um, 98.7% at 15um, and 59.97% at 7um and have enough media to run extended intervals. They are also very cost effective when bought 6 at a time. 

 

I’m still running Amsoil AME 15w-40 CI-4+ in my truck but I am considering trying out the new Amsoil DME 15w-40 CK oil. It has a slightly lower TBN but should handle high temp/high sheer better than AME, and is slightly thicker under higher temps. 

 

CJ was a crap oil, but CK is supposed to be better than most CI’s, but it won’t last quite as long due to a lower TBN. That’s not going to be an issue for 99% of users. 

[leety]

4 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

I’ve never seen an engine with a K&N filter that doesn’t have signs from poor filtration, despite what nearly every K&N user claims. Just not something I’ve personally witnessed, but I have seen lots of indications, including my own vehicles in the past, to point me away from K&N. Oil and such aside, hold one up and you can see light thru it, that’s not a filter that’s a screen door. I want dust to stay out of my motor, not bugs. 

 

 

As far as oil I think Delo 400 and Valvoline Premium Blue are about as good of a dino oil as you can get, if you live in a climate that supports dino oil. 

 

When I ran delo after my rebuild the time to build pressure below 30°F was substantially lower than with a synthetic. I ran it as cold as 10°F and didn’t like the time to build pressure. I monitor pressure on the drivers side above the ECM so it’s a slower reading than the filter head, but the difference between dino and synthetic is BIG.  

 

At -25°F my amsoil AME 15w-40 builds pressure faster than delo 400 at +10°F. 

 

So, depending on where you live delo may not be a good year round oil. I also think synthetic is better for these newer higher power motors, and oldet modified motors when towing hard. 

 

I also have a video around somewhere with oil in mason jars at -10°F. It’ll make you a believer in synthetic for cold temps. 

 

In terms of oil filters nothing touches the DBL7349/ELF7349. They are 100% at 20um, 98.7% at 15um, and 59.97% at 7um and have enough media to run extended intervals. They are also very cost effective when bought 6 at a time. 

 

I’m still running Amsoil AME 15w-40 CI-4+ in my truck but I am considering trying out the new Amsoil DME 15w-40 CK oil. It has a slightly lower TBN but should handle high temp/high sheer better than AME, and is slightly thicker under higher temps. 

 

CJ was a crap oil, but CK is supposed to be better than most CI’s, but it won’t last quite as long due to a lower TBN. That’s not going to be an issue for 99% of users. 

Great info thanks.  I'm in So Cal mainly in Los Angeles, but sometime in Owens Valley, so the only cold I see is when I optionally decide to go visit the cold for winter adventures.  We almost never see below zero temps, even in the snowy places we visit, so I think I'm good with the Delo ambient temperatures wise for the time being.

 

I usually change my fluids more frequently that recommended, like around the timed it looks dirty, I guess I'm kind of OCD about fluid cleanliness.

 

I generally like synthetic oils for most engines though.  I believe the Delo 400 CK that I have is a blended oil.  http://www.deloperformance.com/en-us/products/Delo400XLESAE15W40.html.  For what I'm doing with the truck it should be fine.

 

I like Amsoil but that stuff is pricey.  I'm considering moving to it after a few rounds with the Delo.  This truck was loaded with dirty fluids in all nearly all systems when I got it.  First I have to get every system nice and clean flushing with less costly fluids.  Once the house keeping is over I'll reconsider my choices of fluids for the long term, which may be more expensive, or not depending.

[GSP7]

I dont trust those quick release drain valves

 

what if you drive over some sage brush and it flips the lever

 

[Guest 04Mach1]

1 hour ago, AH64ID said:

I’ve never seen an engine with a K&N filter that doesn’t have signs from poor filtration, despite what nearly every K&N user claims. Just not something I’ve personally witnessed, but I have seen lots of indications, including my own vehicles in the past, to point me away from K&N. Oil and such aside, hold one up and you can see light thru it, that’s not a filter that’s a screen door. I want dust to stay out of my motor, not bugs. 

 

 

As far as oil I think Delo 400 and Valvoline Premium Blue are about as good of a dino oil as you can get, if you live in a climate that supports dino oil. 

 

When I ran delo after my rebuild the time to build pressure below 30°F was substantially lower than with a synthetic. I ran it as cold as 10°F and didn’t like the time to build pressure. I monitor pressure on the drivers side above the ECM so it’s a slower reading than the filter head, but the difference between dino and synthetic is BIG.  

 

At -25°F my amsoil AME 15w-40 builds pressure faster than delo 400 at +10°F. 

 

So, depending on where you live delo may not be a good year round oil. I also think synthetic is better for these newer higher power motors, and oldet modified motors when towing hard. 

 

I also have a video around somewhere with oil in mason jars at -10°F. It’ll make you a believer in synthetic for cold temps. 

 

In terms of oil filters nothing touches the DBL7349/ELF7349. They are 100% at 20um, 98.7% at 15um, and 59.97% at 7um and have enough media to run extended intervals. They are also very cost effective when bought 6 at a time. 

 

I’m still running Amsoil AME 15w-40 CI-4+ in my truck but I am considering trying out the new Amsoil DME 15w-40 CK oil. It has a slightly lower TBN but should handle high temp/high sheer better than AME, and is slightly thicker under higher temps. 

 

CJ was a crap oil, but CK is supposed to be better than most CI’s, but it won’t last quite as long due to a lower TBN. That’s not going to be an issue for 99% of users. 

I've seen plenty of damaged engines from poor filtration. The problem is poor maintenance, not defective product.

[leety]

11 minutes ago, GSP7 said:

I dont trust those quick release drain valves

 

what if you drive over some sage brush and it flips the lever

 

Yea I'm with you. I just looked into them.  I'm not really feeling them either.  The fewer number of parts, especially moving parts, the fewer things can go wrong.  Also they are likely made in China and that alone is suspect.  I found in one review on Amazon how the threaded part just broke off under little pressure in the oil pan.  Bad day right there.  Gonna stick with the stock drain bolt.  It's not like I'm drinking the stuff daily and need a tap for it LOL.   Also, the mysteries of what you may run into off road make that not too appealing.

[GSP7]

14 minutes ago, leety said:

Yea I'm with you. I just looked into them.  I'm not really feeling them either.  The fewer number of parts, especially moving parts, the fewer things can go wrong.  Also they are likely made in China and that alone is suspect.  I found in one review on Amazon how the threaded part just broke off under little pressure in the oil pan.  Bad day right there.  Gonna stick with the stock drain bolt.  It's not like I'm drinking the stuff daily and need a tap for it LOL.   Also, the mysteries of what you may run into off road make that not too appealing.

 

 100% agree , plus the darn thing is sticking down just begging to be busted off

 

 

.

[leety]

2 minutes ago, GSP7 said:

 

 100% agree , plus the darn thing is sticking down just begging to be busted off

 

 

.

Sketchy at best!

[AH64ID]

2 hours ago, GSP7 said:

I dont trust those quick release drain valves

 

what if you drive over some sage brush and it flips the lever

 

 

Me either. 

 

I’ve dented an oil pan, and I’d hate for that to have opened an oil drain. 

 

These motors are easy to drain, so I don’t see the point. 

2 hours ago, 04Mach1 said:

I've seen plenty of damaged engines from poor filtration. The problem is poor maintenance, not defective product.

 

IMHO, it’s a piss poor design which makes its a defective product. Even when maintained as they should be they are ineffective at best. You can see thru the worthless things. How is that good!?!?!?

 

I’ve seen their ineffectiveness for years. There is nothing you could say or show me to change my mind. I find the the K&N brand repulsive.

 

3 hours ago, leety said:

 

I generally like synthetic oils for most engines though.  I believe the Delo 400 CK that I have is a blended oil.  http://www.deloperformance.com/en-us/products/Delo400XLESAE15W40.html.  For what I'm doing with the truck it should be fine.

 

That looks like a great oil. No issues with it at all. 

3 hours ago, leety said:

 

I like Amsoil but that stuff is pricey.  I'm considering moving to it after a few rounds with the Delo.  

 

Pricey but effective. It handles the cold and hot temps better, and it lasts longer. It’s never bothered me to spend the extra cash on my once a year oil change. 

[Guest 04Mach1]

26 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

IMHO, it’s a piss poor design which makes its a defective product. Even when maintained as they should be they are ineffective at best. You can see thru the worthless things. How is that good!?!?!?

 

I’ve seen their ineffectiveness for years. There is nothing you could say or show me to change my mind. I find the the K&N brand repulsive.

 

 

Fairly put. I still believe engine dusting with K&N filters is more of a maintenance issue. Too many times I've seen people not follow the directions specified for cleaning and oiling the gauze element by using incorrect detergents, high pressure water, compressed shop air, and wrong type of oil.

 

In this sue happy give me money for nothing world we live in today, I can assure you that if K&N put out defective filtering products ruining engines and other expensive components they would have gone bankrupt years ago from lawsuits.

 

Now I do agree if used in dusty agriculture or industrial applications such as farming, logging, or mining the good ol' fashioned paper element would be of better air filtration choice since length of service is rather short lived before a replacement is needed.

 

One product family I do have a strong dislike for is any and everything with the Lucas Oil brand name on it. No personal experience in my vehicles but the nastiness of it has disgusted me many times as a professional heavy equipment mechanic.

[AH64ID]

I’ve seen numerous, too many to count, K&N filters that are properly serviced that don’t filter better than a screen door. It’s a filter issue... it can be made worse by poor maintenance, but it’s still a filter issue. 

 

Like I said, hold it up to light and tell me how it can be a good filter. 

[Dieselfuture]

I had a BHAF on for 4 years now and about 30k, still good why throw it away. 

But I'm at the point where I might change it just because. 

As for filter is bought a case of 12 Donaldson blue dbl7349 like @AH64ID recommend, thank you. Oil, I'd love to use amsoil which I did for a while but now using cenpeco, localy made in iowa, a lot of guys that tractor pool here use it and lots of agricultural eqipment, but it does seem to use some of it. When I'll use it all up i might go back to amsoil 15-40 heavy duty ame.

[Guest 04Mach1]

8 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I had a BHAF on for 4 years now and about 30k, still good why throw it away. 

But I'm at the point where I might change it just because. 

As for filter is bought a case of 12 Donaldson blue dbl7349 like @AH64ID recommend, thank you. Oil, I'd love to use amsoil which I did for a while but now using cenpeco, localy made in iowa, a lot of guys that tractor pool here use it and lots of agricultural eqipment, but it does seem to use some of it. When I'll use it all up i might go back to amsoil 15-40 heavy duty ame.

According to warranty departments of most big name filter manufacturers tell places like Speedco and T/A that service thousands of diesel powered vehicles each month that heavy duty air filters need replaced every 50,000 miles or once a year which ever occurs first. The manufacturers told us the interval is because of paper media exposed  to moisture, heat, and other elements deteriorating increasing chances for engine dusting.

 

I wouldn't depend on a filter minder either. I've seen a few turbos damaged by plugged air filters and the filter minder was nowhere close to showing air filter restriction. 

[Mopar1973Man]

14 hours ago, AH64ID said:

I’ve never seen an engine with a K&N filter that doesn’t have signs from poor filtration, despite what nearly every K&N user claims. Just not something I’ve personally witnessed, but I have seen lots of indications, including my own vehicles in the past, to point me away from K&N. Oil and such aside, hold one up and you can see light thru it, that’s not a filter that’s a screen door. I want dust to stay out of my motor, not bugs. 

 

One of the few reason I will not suggest any washable air filter or cold air intake with a washable filter. I've been using BHAF since very early on and never had any dust or dirt on my intake tract or compressor wheel of the turbo. Funny part, they make a washable oil filter for the Cummins too. 

 

https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7960-hubb-reusable-oil-filter-89-16-dodge-cummins.aspx

[JAG1]

I don't trust K&N filter either as anything that you have to be so fussy with in order to make it perform correctly is asking for trouble. We bought a used Subaru a couple years old and brought it home only to find the intake dusty with an oily residue. Yep sure enough....it was a K&N. I hate to bad mouth anyone or any company but this thing was not right when you can run your finger down the intake tube and feel the oil and dust. It was fun to frizzbee the thing in the trash can.

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

rotella and wix for me @10k miles since i dont tow

[Mopar1973Man]

Funny back when I bought my truck brand new there was all the scare about oils and filters. How Fram was making scrap iron of the engines. It was required to use either Fleetguard or Mopar oil filters. Now years have gone by and people fell away from that and back to Napa, Wix, and other filters. No reports of engine melting down or wearing out premature. 

[Dieselfuture]

Don't ever say fram, what a piece of garbage. Had bad experience with that myself, on someone's vehicle I was working on. FRAM is JUNK....!!!!!!!