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Gremlin overload!

Marcus2000monster
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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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Man seems like there’s been a lotnno f small weird issues going on with my truck lately. I developed a new issue late last night and this evening. I picked up a new truck last night and the truck ran perfect on the 2 HR drive. Got the trailer loaded and went to start the truck and nothing happened. No chime, no lights, no nothing except for the park brake indicator light wa s lit but extremely dim. Basically if acted like the batteries were completely dead. My only thonly but was hook up jumper cables so I had the fella helping me jump me and it started no problem. I drove the 2 hrs home with no issues. Drove to work this morning with no issues or problems. Went to leave work started truck and went to lock up shop when I heard my truck shut off. No wierd sounds just shunt off like when I turn the key off. Started right back up and died again 3 mins later. This time it did just what it did last night. No response from instrument cluster or lights. Let sit for a few minutes and bam fired right off and headed home. Made it home no problem. Now I’m really curious why the heck it did that? My battery’s are in good shape. I cleaned the terminals and cable ends recently also. 

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Check the fuses as well I've seen strange things happen to those square fuses. They can crack and look fine but the power to the circuit is random or weak at times. Use an ohm meter to verify.

 

One day mine would crank for short period then quit. Turn the key off and wait a few minutes. Now try again the same thing short burst of the starter and then dead. The fuse for the starter had cracked. Soon as a heavy load placed on the fuse it separated at the crack opening the circuit. Let it cool and it would close again making contact.  Really simple I traded the starter fuse for another problem solved. Just needed to replace the cracked fuse.

 

Wiring can do the same thing if its loose. Load place a loose cable I've seen them move and do weird things. Make sure your master power lead the short red from the driver side positive to the PDC is secure and clean. Remember that stud won't take a huge amount of torque. 

 

You can pull any fuse here and test the bus for +12V during the times of failure. This would point to an issues between the battery and PDC.

 

You need to check fuse 2 and fuse 10 in the PDC.

 

As for in the cab you need to check fuse 9 which is the power to the ECM/PCM. You can use a simple test light during the times it's not working to see if power is to this point. 

 

Power Distribution wiring map 1999 Dodge Ram

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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Check the fuses as well I've seen strange things happen to those square fuses. They can crack and look fine but the power to the circuit is random or weak at times. Use an ohm meter to verify.

 

One day mine would crank for short period then quit. Turn the key off and wait a few minutes. Now try again the same thing short burst of the starter and then dead. The fuse for the starter had cracked. Soon as a heavy load placed on the fuse it separated at the crack opening the circuit. Let it cool and it would close again making contact.  Really simple I traded the starter fuse for another problem solved. Just needed to replace the cracked fuse.

 

Wiring can do the same thing if its loose. Load place a loose cable I've seen them move and do weird things. Make sure your master power lead the short red from the driver side positive to the PDC is secure and clean. Remember that stud won't take a huge amount of torque. 

 

You can pull any fuse here and test the bus for +12V during the times of failure. This would point to an issues between the battery and PDC.

 

You need to check fuse 2 and fuse 10 in the PDC.

 

As for in the cab you need to check fuse 9 which is the power to the ECM/PCM. You can use a simple test light during the times it's not working to see if power is to this point. 

 

Power Distribution wiring map 1999 Dodge Ram

Thank you mike. I’ll attend to that this afternoon. I’m headed to Washington this evening on a 5hr drive so hopefully all goes well. 

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Hawkez

Hawkez

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Make sure you battery cables are tight.  I once had something similar, after cleaning the battery posts I put the cables back on but forgot to tighten them down.  The problem was intermittent and didn't begin until days after.

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int3man

int3man

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9 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I took a closer lookat my PDC power lead and it appears that theyre could be more corrosion inside the cable. Where can i get a new one or must i custom make a wire? 

I bought a replacement from Larry B's store in Washington. Bought cable, cable ends and starter rebuild kit, and that got me to the free freight point.  Pulled the starter while it was working and fed it the kit!!!

 

Good Luck.

Michael.

Edited by int3man
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dripley

dripley

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11 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I took a closer lookat my PDC power lead and it appears that theyre could be more corrosion inside the cable. Where can i get a new one or must i custom make a wire? 

If you are speaking of the wire from the drivers battery to the PDC, you can buy a premade wire that will work for 10 bucks maybe. I think I used a #4 from the parts store. Ring terminals and wires, all you have to do is bolt in place.

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Marcus2000monster

Marcus2000monster

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I found the issue with the no start no lights deal. The positive driver battery terminal was vibrating loose and losing power to PDC. It also had a hole in the battery terminal caused by corrosion and arcing. I’m getting new battery’s this weekend and maybe ordering new cables not sure yet. 

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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36 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

maybe ordering new cables

 

I would get the copper lugs and solder on new copper lugs and use the military style battery terminals. The other problem most people don't hook up battery cable correctly. You need a terminal spreader and make sure the terminal goes all the way to the battery case. Then lightly snug it up. Most people barely get the terminal on the tip of the post and then crank down the nut, crushing the lead like it going to help hold the terminal to the tip of the battery post. :duh:

 

Another way if you don't have a terminal spreader. You can use a rubber mallet and a socket and gently beat the terminal down on the post in a pinch. Be careful its possible to break the battery post from the plates inside beating on a battery. I know this is not a suggested method but for "in a pinch" mode you can do it. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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dripley

dripley

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33 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I found the issue with the no start no lights deal. The positive driver battery terminal was vibrating loose and losing power to PDC. It also had a hole in the battery terminal caused by corrosion and arcing. I’m getting new battery’s this weekend and maybe ordering new cables not sure yet. 

I was going to suggest the same thing @Mopar1970man is referring to. Did mine out of 2/0 welding cable. Bought it off off of the internet. Came with the wire and the terminals. All I had to provide is heat and the solder. Very easy to do and a big money saver. I probably have less than 130 bucks in the materials. If you dont want to solder you can get a crimper and still save some cash and have a crimper for later. That depends on how cheap a crimper you want to buy.

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Ed ke6bnl

Ed ke6bnl

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50 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I would get the copper lugs and solder on new copper lugs and use the military style battery terminals. The other problem most people don't hook up battery cable correctly. You need a terminal spreader and make sure the terminal goes all the way to the battery case. Then lightly snug it up. Most people barely get the terminal on the tip of the post and then crank down the nut, crushing the lead like it going to help hold the terminal to the tip of the battery post. :duh:

 

Another way if you don't have a terminal spreader. You can use a rubber mallet and a socket and gently beat the terminal down on the post in a pinch. Be careful its possible to break the battery post from the plates inside beating on a battery. I know this is not a suggested method but for "in a pinch" mode you can do it. 

another thing I would add is to use double wall adhesived shrink tube to keep out the elements

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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

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1 hour ago, dripley said:

Did mine out of 2/0 welding cable.

Is this what you have ? 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Welding-Cable-Red-Black-2-0-GAUGE-COPPER-WIRE-SAE-J1127-CAR-BATTERY-SOLAR/291960472469?var=&hash=item43fa334395

Edit 

Or was it this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WELDING-CABLE-2-0-30-15-BLACK-15RED-FT-BATTERY-LEADS-USA-NEW-Gauge-Copper-AWG/251112721181?hash=item3a777c0b1d:g:WFAAAOSwa29bt-lB

Not sure which brand is better, probably same thing, both made in USA,  temco seems a bit cheaper in price. 

Edited by Dieselfuture
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dripley

dripley

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6 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

Is this what you have ? 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Welding-Cable-Red-Black-2-0-GAUGE-COPPER-WIRE-SAE-J1127-CAR-BATTERY-SOLAR/291960472469?var=&hash=item43fa334395

Edit 

Or was it this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WELDING-CABLE-2-0-30-15-BLACK-15RED-FT-BATTERY-LEADS-USA-NEW-Gauge-Copper-AWG/251112721181?hash=item3a777c0b1d:g:WFAAAOSwa29bt-lB

Not sure which brand is better, probably same thing, both made in USA,  temco seems a bit cheaper in price. 

I believe I got mine off of amazon. 8' of black and red, ring trminals, and adhesive lined shrink wrap. Looking back I probably have less than $115 in the project and 2 or 3 hourrs work in it.

 

4 hours ago, notlimah said:

Custom battery cables has all these readily available for purchase. Pre-made ready to go, solid product for those less inclined to want to do this job with larger wire.

I looked at theirs too. Very good looking product. The price, not the product  turned me off.

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