47RE Upgrades

[Mopar1973Man]

I wonder how I got to 385k miles without 2 LO all these years? Only on my second clutch. Hmmm... 

 

 

 

Edited July 2, 2019 by Mopar1973Man

[dripley]

I dont have it either but have been in some places it would have been nice. The non paved rv parks are but occasionally I get in some weird places.

[Marcus2000monster]

So I’m thinking maybe a dual disc converter. And a valvebody should do the job?

What mods would I need to lockup all the shifts through 4th? I saw a video of a 24 valVe with lockup through all the gears.

[Stormin08]

billet shafts, and HD flexplate at a min... the stock flexplate is not very well built.

[dripley]

@Dynamic would be a good person ask too.

[dave110]

 Call and talk to him. He can build the VB to have the ability to lock up in all gears. And he likes triple discs but I don't think you just put one in without doing some other things. But please don't run around doing locked shifts all the time, at least not when I'm behind you. My Firestones don't like running over transmission pieces 

[BBHD]

@Haggar I completely agree with you and couldn't have said it any better. If a truck has the CAD why wouldn't anyone want the option?

[Evan]

I agree have dynamic tune a valve body for your  and toss it under your rig and drive.

 

Yes never do locked up shifts. 

Do you really want first too lock??

[wil440]

7 hours ago, Evan said:

Do you really want first too lock??

Yes. The road I was on last Friday truck was in 1st gear flat out for about 300 yards this was in the middle of 1.5 miles up a valley road so trans was hot already and round a corner is that climb with 2 sharp S bends, truck had maybe 8"either side the wheels then grass, I haven't done the 2wd mod in low   so that wasn't an option and pulling 9k  1st lockup would have been nice but the trans is standard

[Evan]

I'm prett stubborn about alot of things often takes years for me to try new things.

 

Yes locking first will work well. But so will using the hearing available that you have try it even with it in 4wd.

You probly already smoke the granny so what do you have to lose 

[Haggar]

Wil,

 

Until you get to the full blown mod, there are 2 ways to make the CAD not connect for you.

1. Open hood.   Locate vacuum hose feeding the switch in the transfer case.  (should be on firewall near the drivers side. in a "tee" going vertically down.  Disconnect this line.  Use a vacuum cap (easy to get at a zone near you) to plug the tee.  voila  your cad will not try to actuate.

 

2.  If you are afraid to open the hood, or it is too far to reach that hose easily,  lay under the front end of the truck near the cad (behind passenger side front wheel) (or you can turn wheels fully left and go between the tire and wheel well, I lay a carpet scrap on tire to not get too dirty)  Swap the two vacuum hoses on the cad actuator.  Just remember you will need to re-swap when you want to go back to 2wd.

  Here is a schematic of the vacuum.  Number 1 way is disconnecting the grey line.  number 2 is swapping the black and red.  You could also just disconnect and plug the black line from the actuator.(so a 3rd way?) 

 

HTH

Hag

[wil440]

7 minutes ago, Haggar said:

Wil,

 

Until you get to the full blown mod, there are 2 ways to make the CAD not connect for you.

1. Open hood.   Locate vacuum hose feeding the switch in the transfer case.  (should be on firewall near the drivers side. in a "tee" going vertically down.  Disconnect this line.  Use a vacuum cap (easy to get at a zone near you) to plug the tee.  voila  your cad will not try to actuate.

 

2.  If you are afraid to open the hood, or it is too far to reach that hose easily,  lay under the front end of the truck near the cad (behind passenger side front wheel) (or you can turn wheels fully left and go between the tire and wheel well, I lay a carpet scrap on tire to not get too dirty)  Swap the two vacuum hoses on the cad actuator.  Just remember you will need to re-swap when you want to go back to 2wd.

  Here is a schematic of the vacuum.  Number 1 way is disconnecting the grey line.  number 2 is swapping the black and red.  You could also just disconnect and plug the black line from the actuator.(so a 3rd way?) 

 

HTH

Hag

Thanks for that.. that will be great in an emergency. I've been looking and the posi lok seems to be the one as my old 3500 had cad and sometimes it was a struggle to get it out again even after straightened truck and wheels to undo any windup but again it's finding companies over there that will ship to the UK. Found a company on ebay but £90 shipping on top of posi lok then import tax and vat will make it close to £250.   I can get a 12volt air solenoid switch off ebay for £5 but from china, uk made £30 ggggrrrr

[Haggar]

I am not sure if you like junk yards much, but a suggestion....  Look for vacuum solenoids from the fuel vapor system from a wrecked car.  I am not sure if the UK versions use them (but I am pretty sure they did) but in the USA we have to capture the fuel vapors from the tank in a carbon structure, and burn them at a later time.  not certain that it will work for you but it should.  I think due to its internal valving if you put it in the 4wd side of the cad, if you wanted 4wd, you would need to actuate it. (I think it is normally closed, and the downstream vents to atmosphere in the non actuated state) but it would make it not an under truck or hood adventure.

 

Hag

[IBMobile]

Check the recycler yard for 1996-1998 Volvo 850 and 1999-2000 s70-v70 modules.  They have that purge valve located on the radiator fan shroud top left.  They can be either round, early type, or rectangle.  Test both ports with vacuum hand pump to hold vacuum when closed   If found get the wire connector and 10cm of wire with it.    

 

[wil440]

No yards here let you pull your part, that was stopped by the heath and safety police ages ago you can still walk around junk yards but they are full of ...well junk ☺ the info though will be useful for a ebay search for a volvo part

[BBHD]

this is what I use for mine