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Matt0matic

New Member- New Ride 83 F250 with 24V Cummins

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Figure this would be a good place to start, I recently purchased an 1983 F250 with a 2000 Cummins and NV4500 swapped. Running the Dodge brakes, cluster, etc.

Currently I removed the stacks and installed a Magnaflow system under the truck- 3.5" down to a 4" pipe all the way to the rear tire. The system was for a 98-02 Dodge and fit well under the Ford, I did need to oblong the bolt holes in the exhaust flange to get the down pipe to bolt up.

Also removed an undersize air filter and replaced it with a 'BHAF' and replaced the welded 90 degree 4" intake pipe with a mandrel bent 60 degree pipe.

And pictures:

How I got the truck-

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While I'm waiting for photos to upload. I also have a TimBo APPS for the truck I initially suspected dead pedal but it was the throttle being out of adjustment and not sending signal until the throttle has opened ~15-20%. But I will hold onto it for just-in-case circumstances. Do I need to adjust the APPS with a voltmeter or can I just adjust it til an increase in RPMs then back it down a little? How does one check for full throttle?

Also purchased some Delo 400LE and Mopar branded filter to do an oil change but wanted to wait until I know what I need to change out the fuel filters and do it all at one time. Might just purchase an AirDog and replace the inline pump that it mounted outside the fuel tank, end up with new filters and a better pump. Any suggestions?

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That things gotta be awesome. Get some pics under the hood sometime :thumbup2:

Oh and welcome to the forum.

Thank you! Ask and you shall receive!

Excited when the Fedex guy dropped a few packages off.

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Off with the old.

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Old filthy filter plus the elbow I disliked.

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Under the Hood

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Stackless! And I am enjoying my hearing again. It was fun sounding like a semi a fraction of the time.

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Nice truck :thumbup2: and welcome to the forum. I would recommend a Fass lift pump over the AirDog/ Raptor. I think they are performing better is what I've heard out there.

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nice looking truck and welcome to the forum. That was one nasty looking air filter.

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Thank you for the welcome and responses!

Did you do a solid axle swap too or did that year not have the ugly independent front axle?:thumbup2:

Axle swap with a high pinion D44 "HD"; looking at a D60 from a 85 F350. But I also need to find a 4x4 NV4500 mainshaft and housing to adapt the NP241 I got with the truck. So for the time being the front is just there to hold the tires and steer.

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Wow! Amazing he even got the factory ABS brakes controller hooked up and the PDC box under the hood! :thumbup2:

PDC box is the fuse box? I need to take some pictures of the wiring nightmare underhood and the mess around the fuel pump and hopefully someone can shed some light on what I'm looking at.

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Do I need to adjust the APPS with a voltmeter or can I just adjust it til an increase in RPMs then back it down a little? How does one check for full throttle?

Any advice?

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Wire nuts and butt splices, definitely some concern. The one picture you ask about the ECM. It is the PCM in the photo. The ECM would be on the left side of the block if it was left in the stock location.

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I tend to agree with Dave the wiring is a bit concerning. The location of the ECM is on the driver side of the block. Can't miss it silver box with a 50 pin connector.As for that wiring I'd buy a roll of shrink tubing and roll of solder and solder all joints and shrink tube it. Ask Wild and Free about Scotch-Loc's on how much he loves them. :wink:

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Got some of the supplies to redo the electrical; but, I am fearful to mess up what is already done and end up with the truck not running after I "fix" it. So, I'm trying to find a 2000 electrical diagram and then draw out what I have in comparison for reference before I start at it.I did get a fuel pressure gauge to work again; it was showing ~20 at idle and a needle-width less under a load but for what ever reason soon after I took possession of the truck it decided to stop working. I found an old gauge to replace it and got simular reading with this gauge: ~23 at idle and 20 under a load.

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Was able to find a 4x4 NV4500 and a rebuilt NP271 that I plan on swapping in as soon as I go through the transmission. Anyone savvy with Dana 70 knowledge? I have my 70U under the truck with 4.10 and a posi, would I be able to swap just the posi from the Ford 70U into a Dodge 70-U2? I found a Dodge 2001 D70 with 3.54 and an open carrier for cheap and figure the disk brakes in addition to better gearing would be a good idea when I move to a 34-35" tire. And the 01 rear end would allow for me to hook up the VSS and get the speedo working.

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Was able to find a 4x4 NV4500 and a rebuilt NP271 that I plan on swapping in as soon as I go through the transmission. Anyone savvy with Dana 70 knowledge? I have my 70U under the truck with 4.10 and a posi, would I be able to swap just the posi from the Ford 70U into a Dodge 70-U2? I found a Dodge 2001 D70 with 3.54 and an open carrier for cheap and figure the disk brakes in addition to better gearing would be a good idea when I move to a 34-35" tire. And the 01 rear end would allow for me to hook up the VSS and get the speedo working.

In my dealings with the rear end in my truck, a Dana 70-U2, there is no difference in the housing center section regardless of the brand of truck. The 4.10 gears would probably be lower than you want, really cranks the RPM's at cruising speed. The dodge rear should have the factory limited slip in the carrier, if you take it apart and restack the clutches inside it basically becomes a spool. I restacked mine when I replaced the diff bearings and it feels like a detroit locker when the clutches actually do let the tires turn at different speeds. With 35's and 3.54 gears you would probably be turning close to 1250 RPM's at 55MPH. The speedo works off the transmission, the sensor in the rearend is for the abs system.
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Wire nuts and butt splices, definitely some concern. The one picture you ask about the ECM. It is the PCM in the photo. The ECM would be on the left side of the block if it was left in the stock location.

Yeah yikes that wiring is a mess. I would invest in some Deutsch connectors, very easy and simple to use, just the initial investment of crimper.

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I always liked the 80-86 fords. Good luck with the wiring. Found out about a new kind of butt connector from a CAT guru who was tracing down some internal wiring probs on the big truck I drive. He said they have glue in them and when you take the mini torch to them they seal up real good. Said he got them at Wally World. They work inside the valve covers of a big cat and keep the oil out and resist vibration so I don't know why they wouldn't keep out water and moisture.

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I used to sell some butt connectors that had heat shrink tubing around the outside and a small tube of solder inside. Put your wires together, use your torch and heat them up, it shrinks down and melts a little solder into it all at the same time. They were made by Standard Motor Products. Very nice easy splice and seals up good.

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