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Teardown and Rebuild


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It's the 2009+ upgrade for 3rd gen trucks, which also works on 2001 & 2002 trucks. It changes the Y style steering to a T style steering. The front two wheels are locked together, so when the suspension cycles it doesn't change the toe in - toe out of the tires.

so everything fits right in without any mods? If so that is great news in near future I'll be doing this. I'm guessing everything is much bigger but still fits in all holes? Thanks.

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Next thing I'm waiting for now is to see how long it will last before he pops a head gasket. :whistle:

The slippery slope of modifying a Cummins.

I just look back at the numerous times he used this  :spend:as an excuse on not doing this and that during the overhaul but then a couple months later spends more and more on the exterior of the engine after the fact. :spend::stirthepot::think:

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You looking to buy?? 

Thanks I'm really happy with the way it turned out.

As for the air cleaner.... Yes it's an oiled S&B. It'll be getting a dry AFE on it asap. I'd like to get an ourterwear for it as well, and I think DAP sells some.

Hahahah... No.  :(  You've just put so much work into it to make it "perfect" or near as can be for an old truck, it is going to be a fun but there is always the battle of wear and tear.  However, I bet you can just enjoy it as long as you stay clear of the body shop!

 

Next thing I'm waiting for now is to see how long it will last before he pops a head gasket. :whistle:

The slippery slope of modifying a Cummins.

CH6rT5r.jpg

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so everything fits right in without any mods? If so that is great news in near future I'll be doing this. I'm guessing everything is much bigger but still fits in all holes? Thanks.

Yup. It all lines up and appears to be much better than the stock design. No more toe-in toe-out as the suspension cycles.

Next thing I'm waiting for now is to see how long it will last before he pops a head gasket. :whistle:

The slippery slope of modifying a Cummins.

Head gasket better not pop.... that's why I spent the money to have the head O ringed and put studs in. Heck my brother is making over 700hp on studs and a stock gasket (180k) with no issues. Remember.... it's not a 6.0 :)

I just look back at the numerous times he used this  :spend:as an excuse on not doing this and that during the overhaul but then a couple months later spends more and more on the exterior of the engine after the fact. :spend::stirthepot::think:

Well some things fell into place and I'm working while going to school. Without that $$ there's no way I would have touched it. The exterior was all insurance $$ too.

Hahahah... No.  :(  You've just put so much work into it to make it "perfect" or near as can be for an old truck, it is going to be a fun but there is always the battle of wear and tear.  However, I bet you can just enjoy it as long as you stay clear of the body shop!

 

CH6rT5r.jpg

That's my hope! With these injectors I'm not concerned about anything. There isn't enough fuel to break the motor, and I'm smart about when I apply power.

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Head gasket better not pop.... that's why I spent the money to have the head O ringed and put studs in. Heck my brother is making over 700hp on studs and a stock gasket (180k) with no issues. Remember.... it's not a 6.0 :)

I wasn't sure if it was ringed or not. Good thing it should hold up really good. Still with great power comes great responsibility. :gun:

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I wasn't sure if it was ringed or not. Good thing it should hold up really good. Still with great power comes great responsibility. :gun:

Yup! Built her to hold whatever the VP can throw at her. Just have to be mindful of the trans!

IMG_20150703_215107_671_zpszm7o3mhi.jpg

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I think you're confusing O rings with Fire rings. The O ring just crushes the head gasket's fire ring harder. Heat cycles don't bother it, just like not having O rings.

Fire rings replace the gasket's fire ring, and they are not fond of constant heat cycles.

Edited by TFaoro
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100psi boost gauge and steering column pod are on the way. Hopefully installing this weekend. 

I should also be picking up my high idle switch from Nick friday. Excited to have one again!

Found out my secondary is likely opening WAY too early... not sure how I'll adjust the arm up here.

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Got a couple videos. The sound only one was with the TST off. I can get 40psi with the smarty on 3....

40 .... heck I hit that on my he351cw .......single.

Wait till you join the 80+  club.

:) 

In all honesty - I love a high HP truck .... but a quick spooling 500HP is where its at.

 

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40 .... heck I hit that on my he351cw .......single.

Wait till you join the 80+  club.

:) 

In all honesty - I love a high HP truck .... but a quick spooling 500HP is where its at.

 

I agree with you there. I personally think 400 horsepower is more than enough and with a fast spooling turbo and a properly built engine  (head studs, correct pistons, etc).

A 24 Valve VP44 injected engine has pistons and tuning from Cummins that will yield 300 horsepower and be close if not over 900 ft. lb. of torque. This is plenty of working power for sure.

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I agree with you there. I personally think 400 horsepower is more than enough and with a fast spooling turbo and a properly built engine  (head studs, correct pistons, etc).

A 24 Valve VP44 injected engine has pistons and tuning from Cummins that will yield 300 horsepower and be close if not over 900 ft. lb. of torque. This is plenty of working power for sure.

I agree. I run about 400/850 to the ground which translates to ~480/1000 crank power and I rarely, if ever, go above 80% load while towing. I will hit 100% load occasionally while passing, towing or empty.

Based on personal experience and some research I don't think the cooling/oiling system can handle much more for actual use while towing. It always makes me laugh to see guys state they need 550-600 hp for what they tow. You cannot maintain that kind of power in a LD drivetrain and stay cool, properly lubricated, and keep a drivetrain alive.

Don't mention CFM... I think he has you beat. :cool:

CFM is HUGE and far more important that boot. Cam and turbine wheel/housing play a huge role in determining the boost per CFM. I always use my truck as an example. I run about 7 psi less peak boost than I did with the stock cam/turbo and make over 100rwhp more with lower EGT's. So what is better?? The new cam/turbo is far more efficient which is why it is cooler, has more power, and runs less boost. I went from a peak of 37ish and an average (on a grade) of 32-34 to a peak of 30-31 and an average of 24-26 psi on a grade with more power, more weight, lower EGT's, and the same speed.

 

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I couldn't agree more. That's why I don't even look at the TST when towing. Last time it dynoed 372 / 830 on the smarty only. That's been more than enough power to pull anything I hook up to and not kill the drivetrain.

I do enjoy having a lot of power DDing though. I don't use it often, but when I do it moves quick :stirthepot:

I've got the 100psi gauge in my room, but I'm still waiting for the steering column pod to show up!

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