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Teardown and Rebuild


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3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I run winter fronts some times as high as 70*F except I'm not towing. Towing and grades with winter front is dangerous...

Things go boom!!!!! At least I found out how easy it is to change a radiator. Already knew it would be no fun buying it.

 

11 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

That's why I find the cardboard useful. I can have it out in 30 seconds if it's going to be a warm day, and drop it in just as fast if it's going to be cool. 

I went back to this method too. Easy in, easy out.

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Doesn't the above method in theory completely eliminate the radiator? With carboard right there in front of it there's no possible way for wind to pass through or the fan to do its job. With just the front grill mesh area I'm sure there still plenty of air getting through. No where near air tight but even if it was, ambient air would be abundant enough inside the engine bay and the fan could still pull air through and do its job.

 

Right?!

 

This is what mine look like just for reference. They're just held in my washers and wing nuts 

 

image.jpeg

Edited by notlimah
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37 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Doesn't the above method in theory completely eliminate the radiator? With carboard right there in front of it there's no possible way for wind to pass through or the fan to do its job. With just the front grill mesh area I'm sure there still plenty of air getting through. No where near air tight but even if it was, ambient air would be abundant enough inside the engine bay and the fan could still pull air through and do its job.

 

Right?!

 

This is what mine look like just for reference. They're just held in my washers and wing nuts 

 

image.jpeg

 

I cut an 8"x8" square out in front of the fan clutch and have yet to have issues. Today I headed up a pass, which was about 5 miles and the engine was already at 190* the engine temp climbed up to 207 while doing some "testing" with the smarty. Like 55-75 WOT runs getting exhaust temps up and boost above 50 multiple times.  Best thing is if I need it to cool off I hop out and pull the cardboard. 

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8 hours ago, notlimah said:

Doesn't the above method in theory completely eliminate the radiator? With carboard right there in front of it there's no possible way for wind to pass through or the fan to do its job. With just the front grill mesh area I'm sure there still plenty of air getting through. No where near air tight but even if it was, ambient air would be abundant enough inside the engine bay and the fan could still pull air through and do its job.

 

Right?!

 

This is what mine look like just for reference. They're just held in my washers and wing nuts 

 

image.jpeg

I dont disagree with what  you are saying at all. If I know I am going to be somewhere it is going to be cold both night and day  I will use my fronts but around here you might be winter in the am and spring in the pm. When using the card board I dont block off the whole radiator maybe 3/4 of it.

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I would have to have one intricate piece of cardboard to cover what the OEM winter front does. The OEM one also has 4 flaps that can be opened. I've run it on 60° days, not towing, without any temp issues.  

 

I like how it blocks the intercooler too. Warmer IATs are good in the winter. 

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There you go getting sophisticated on us. Just kidding AH. That would be a good option for me or anyone who experiences cold am and warmer pm conditions. Easy to open of close the flaps. You just have to remember it is on there before you go towing. Sometimes my memory is not so good. 

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39 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Tyler, rain doesn't make the cardboard break down? I live where it rains a lot.

The pieces I have used hold up fine. I guess they are drying almost as fast as they get wet. you can definitely tell they do get wet but I have never had one come apart. Finding a replacement piece on the job is easy anyway.

42 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

11° out this morning so I went to see how she started without a grid heater. Well, even without a winter front the engine was still 39° and it's been parked since 8 last night (11 hours). It started instantly :-)

Mine will still bust off at 30 very quickly though it does sound like the starter is turning slower. It is hard to tell though since i starts so quickly but the starter does sound different when its that cold.

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4 hours ago, AH64ID said:

I would have to have one intricate piece of cardboard to cover what the OEM winter front does. The OEM one also has 4 flaps that can be opened. I've run it on 60° days, not towing, without any temp issues.  

 

I like how it blocks the intercooler too. Warmer IATs are good in the winter. 

I really like the ones Geno's sells. They're very nice. However, free cardboard vs 80 bucks.... I'm going to stick with the free until I'm making some money :) 

2 hours ago, AH64ID said:

11° out this morning so I went to see how she started without a grid heater. Well, even without a winter front the engine was still 39° and it's been parked since 8 last night (11 hours). It started instantly :-)

Jealous.... 

I do have a bit of a CR tuning question for you. After dropping the 100% overs in my brother's 05, it starts super slow.... like it cranks fast (new bateries) and fires right away, but once if fires it slowly revs up to idling rpm. Sound normal with big injectors?

2 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Tyler, rain doesn't make the cardboard break down? I live where it rains a lot.

It has never come apart on me, and I wash my truck once a week! I think the heat from the engine dries it out very fast. 

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9 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

I do have a bit of a CR tuning question for you. After dropping the 100% overs in my brother's 05, it starts super slow.... like it cranks fast (new bateries) and fires right away, but once if fires it slowly revs up to idling rpm. Sound normal with big injectors?

 

 

Did you mess with duration in that realm?

 

Is the rail pressure coming up slowly too?

 

Have you tried higher than stock rail pressure at idle?

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8 hours ago, AH64ID said:

 

 

Did you mess with duration in that realm?

 

Is the rail pressure coming up slowly too?

 

Have you tried higher than stock rail pressure at idle?

I don't think it was messed with... kinda hard to remember now though. 

 

Rail pressure spikes to 5K as soon as he starts cranking, and it idles at 7K.

 

I'll look into changing the tune over Christmas. 

 

Another thing that may or man not be related: When he throws it in neutral while still moving the rpms bounce between 500 and 800 until he comes to a stop. Once he stops it acts normal. Think this is related?

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