2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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hello i change my automatic transmission for a nv4500 but the front drive shaft is too tight, what length to remove to be in the right measure ? .. I will have it cut and balance at a professional shop thank you
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So I'm bored here at work thinking deep, Have 206k on my 01, factory VP. Im second owner, bought at 120k miles December of 2015. Previous owner hauled camper to Florida and back and maintained it with regular oil and filter changes all documented. First thing I did was on my way home order a Air dog rapotor factory replacement. 2 days later it showed up and ran fleetguard fs19855 filters with 5k miles changes. That pump died in August of 2017. Then a Fass titanium 165 was put on and I ran the factory Fass filters for 11k miles and am doing 15k mile changes on fleetguard fs1000 and CAT IR0750. And every oil change I buy a 16…
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Didn’t know where to put this topic but since it’s on a 2nd gen I’ll put it here. I’m wanting to paint the compressor housing on my he351cw this weekend but it’s a pain to remove the snap ring that holds it on. It doesn’t have one of those convenient tabs that make it easy to remove its just got 1 hole in each side like a normal snap ring. Does anyone have a cheap tool that I can pick up at the hardware store? I can’t find any snap ring pliers big enough. I got it out last time with 2 punches and some channel locks but I’d rather not go through that again ?
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Bought truck from a friend that said it needed to warm up a few minutes before it shifted right. Test drive took 1/2 mile not shifting before shifting perfectly. I would let the truck warm up about 5 min and it shifted fine, for 4 months, 95% of the time. Sometimes, after just shutting it off, I had to drive around a parking lot until it shifted right or stopped and restart. I replaced the two pressure sensors, replaced the accumulator spring (was broken) with upgrade, and the bar( broken) on the front band adjuster. No luck. ONE TIME while driving around the block I shut it off, started it and immediately dropped into drive and it shifted perfectly through all gears. Non…
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Lost my Speedometer the other day and started troubleshooting. Only to find the abs ring is toast and the pinion gear had chipped and caused all the damage. The rearend was rebuilt 3years ago and has 36k on it. Any my idea what would cause this to happen? Poor install? Poor Material? I only haul 7k for 6 to 8,000 miles a year.
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Driving home from work engine the tone changed and my max speed was 60 mph so checked for codes no codes, I disconnected the TS MVP no change, I check fuel pressure seemed normal to me bump key 17psi, running 15psi, mash the pedal to the floor 10psi, my fass pump is 12 years old. Truck is smoking white smoke. I'm thinking it the VP44 it have been in for 10yrs and 200,000 miles. It did this the first time the VP44 died, except it would only idle no matter what position the gas pedal was in. I'm thinking it's the VP44 again just wanted a second a pinion. I plan on replacing the VP and the fass pump. Thanks
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2002 2500 with I think factory tow package has both 4 pole and 7 hooks up. The 4 way works like it should. Turn signals and brakes. The 7 way only had turn signals and brake light brake box wouldn't come on either. Checked the 40 amp fuse under the hood for the trailer and it was bad swapped it out. Brake box worked and had running lights. Then the ground wire on the trailer was smoking and my third brake like was stuck on till we unhooked trailer. What is wired wrong on this truck? It ain't the trailer. I think something was odd about dodge wiring but I cant recall what. Any help is appreciated.
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ok guys my 2002 fuel mileage sucks iv had different issues with it had a miss at idle changed injectors fixed miss put dap 50hp in it got a edge ez tuner fass pump boost gauge about 10 on it when getting in it and about 4-5 driving 55 fuel pressure 20lb idle 16 down highway iv checked fuel mileage in town about 13 mph . so could tuner or injector cause bad fuel mileage i mean shouldn't it get a little better i drive like a old man thanks.
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So I took off with a little extra spirit today and second gear decided to check out. Does anybody have and parts or have a good source to get whatever parts I may need when I open this can of worms? Also one more thing would help greatly is how much does this trans and transfer case weigh separately?
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If everything surrounding the DDRP is stock, is it limiting the DDRP/fuel pressure? Would it be beneficial to increase fuel line size? And what other benefit that would also be beneficial when I upgrade from the DDRP to either a more powerful mechanical or electric pump should I do?
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What should the stock transmission fluid temp be when cruising? I just got my gauge back from Westach that has had the pointer stuck since I installed it. I have the sensor on the transmission line, not in the pan so I know it will be a bit cooler there. Haven’t gotten around to installing the port in the pan yet. Yesterday it was 45 degrees out and the temps indicated from 100 to 110-not towing anything. She rolled over 114,000 miles and y’all have me thinking my transmission might be getting short in the tooth.
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Im running a 63 68 12 /s475 setup and i currently have 7x09 injectors... I'm looking to see what you guys recommend for my setup as my 7 by 9s are too small now. The truck is a manual trans and primarily used to tow the camp trailer in the summertime at about 5000 through 9000 foot elevation.
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My buddy replaced his mount and told me it stiffened up the truck a bit. He thought if might even took away some shudder in lockup. I picked up a new one and put it in tonight. The old one was nasty. Definitely has fixed my shudder.
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Ok I was wondering does a vp ever get weak or worn out. I installed a Fass 95 and a sump works great runs at 17 18 psi all the time. Installed new Bosch rv275 injectors and a Quadzilla xzt. Every once in a while it idles very slightly rough very slightly. Tonight the wife and I went out to dinner and took a drive we went a back road three the hills it had a 5 mile down hill stretch I didn't feel it but the engine died didn't realize it till I went to use the brakes and had no power. Pulled over and it started backup after a few revolutions. I have a new Vp44 just need to put it in. Thoughts anyone?
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Need some help guys I have low fuel pressure on my airdog 150 it's running 13psi vp44 truck. The pump is kinda noisy I've checked power 13.82 volts checked my ground and changed the filters and relay and it's a new electric pump got a warranty about 2 months ago was fine then boom 13psi.
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I recently removed my stock turbo for a SXE and have a friend that is looking for a HX35, so he asked me if my old turbo was an HX35 and I have no clue. Anybody know how or where I can locate that info? Or anybody know what should have been on the truck stock?
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I was fiddling around under the hood today and come to find out that there is excessive turbo play and a lot of oil film in the housing. I can see that the turbine has contacted the oil film and I’m fairly certain I can see a faint mark around the housing beneath the oil. What should I do for a turbo? Rebuild this one or go with a aftermarket or He351cw? Currently running Dap 75s. I think this has something to do with low low end power. Top end with these injectors is really good it takes off well but low end power feels very laggy.... Ipinions?
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Just wondering if you have to put a different filter on if you use a pan thats an inch or so deeper. Working on a little side project Ramcharger and have a nice deep I would swap if I dont need to mod the filter. Thanks Chris
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2000 dodge 47re 1-2 2-3 taking to long to shift, . it shifts at the right time just to long between gears. 3-4 shift good. trans was rebuild stock about 10000 mile ago. engine is stock diesel.
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