2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Question 1. Larger 1/2 inch fuel lines seems to be what people like best for supplying fuel. What about the return line (line back to the tank) …Is there any benefit going with a larger return line? (Maybe to relive pressure as return line enters back to module with a small but OEM 5/16 fitting, or maybe the return line needs pressure?) Question 2. I'm having a hard time looking over and down at engine...In the pic, the return line is the lower one right? (top is brake line, middle hose is supply line and lower line is return?)

Yea, I think so lol Not sure if it was a loose connection or what but I'll be ordering a new one. Sad part is this was replaced less then a year ago so unless it was really a loss connection (aka my fault) kinda sucks but I'll talk to Genos and see what they can work with me on. Theres no fuses I need to check right? Needless to say, check your connections often or use lock washers lol

Well Gang, The Board of Directors on the Mopar1973Man.com has decided that we need to produce some new High Idle Switches for the 2nd gen 24V Cummins. We have spent a considerable amount of time designing a Brand New High Idle / MPG fooler Switch. We have learned from the last switch design and have made significant improvements. The New High Idle / MPG Fooler switch will be the same price as before, but it will be more robust and modular to allow for easier install. We have decided to only offer a "Install Anywhere Kit" rather than a gauge mount or Cubby Mount. You will nly have to drill one 1/4" hole to allow for the f…

Hello, I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 24v 5.9 with intermittent electrical issues. Sounds like fun - right? New PCM, rebuilt instrument cluster, paid so-called electronics experts to troubleshoot/repair, still have bus communication errors and half of the gauges (tach, oil pressure, H20 temp) do not currently work. Experts or I can fiddle/clean with various stuff and everything will work for a bit, but that nirvana is short lived - a few hundred miles at most. My latest exploration has found that the "power distribution block" (what are these blocks called?) in the under hood fuse box will not tighten as securely as I think it should... just as the …

99 24 valve, going uphill anywhere from 1500 rpms up, dosent matter what speed, im getting a strange whining noise. coming from the drivers side of the engine. any ideas? its not the turbo im pretty sure. also i have an oil leak coming from the bottom of the tranny bell housing, right on the edge of the cover for the flywheel and the torque converter. are the 2 related? havent noticed a loss in power, anything

So after just picking up a smarty, I got to wondering if I should just look into getting a TST and being done with it. I know quad is the go to tuner around here for its ability to tune out smoke and get any one setup to run great. But if someone doesn't want to test and tweak setting to get them just right, is the smarty stack still a good one? Pros/cons?

Hey Guys, <<For a List of vendors who have supplied junk parts or didn't stand behind their products....see the bottom of the article.>> pepsi71ocean here. I decided to finally write this article up after another round of people with issues with reman companies. So a while ago back in 10/2015 I shorted out my PCM with a botched rebuild on my Alternator(I forgot to add a sealing washer!) As a result, after replacing the defective alternator I still had no charging on the alternator. I went hunting for a re builder for my PCM. I was quoted almost $800 for a new blank from Dodge, and that didn't include programming. A friend of mine on Facebook who …

Hey guys, recently picked up a smarty so in the process of tuning and changing tire size, I checked my DTCs and got a couple I hadn't seen before so looking for a sanity check on these. First one is I'm curious if this is a typical code to expect since I'm using a lock up switch? Seems like it, but some assurance would be nice. Second is Does this relate to the lockup switch as well? Or something else? My alternator seems to be doing it's job. Appears to come up with at least 12-ish volts prior to start and gets the needle up over 14 when driving so appears to be charging. What else should I be looking for? FWI…

Hopefully I can get some clarity from you all, as I have been scratching my head. I have been posting on other sites throughout the years and have had good luck, but seems like this is the place for good electronics info. Truck info: 2002 2500 6 speed Smarty FASS 4" Turbo Back Prodigy Brake Controller BHAF List of codes from Smarty P0121 P0122 P0123 All APPS voltage codes, but I am getting high and low voltage codes P0177 WIF P1475 P1480 Aux 5 Voltage high and low P0342 P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor High and low …

I'm looking for the best option for upgraded valve springs. I've got the air for 500-550hp and I will have the fuel whenever my buddy buys my smaller 7x.009 injectors so I can upgrade. I found Hamilton 103# and CPP 103# valve springs. The obvious choice will be the CPP for $100 cheaper. I came across this company that sells through eBay and was wondering if anyone has any experience with them. The name is StreetSportIndustries they have 103# valve springs listed for almost the same price as the crowler 110# springs. The link is http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-5-07-For-Cummins-5-9-6BT-24V-103-Upgraded-High-RPM-Valve-Spring-set-of-24-/311756186784?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 to…

I am looking for someone wanting to swap ecm's. I have an 02 manual ecm 235hp and I'm looking for someone with an 02 auto ecm that wants to swap. I can confirm the anti stall feature is present and functioning as that is the reason I am looking to swap. Trying to stop this thing in gear is like trying to stop a freight train (Allison 6 speed with extra low stall). It's never had a Smarty hooked up to it, completely stock. Pm me if you're interested.

2000 24v built trans, good hd torque converter, 40hp injectors, new IP, new FASS. Dies from park to reverse or forward gears, dies from reverse to forward or forward to reverse. Just had my PCM and ECM updated to the newest file. It's driving me nuts. Seems to be idling 50-75rpm too low. I try to move my trailer, it does. I love around a parking lot it dies. Happens at least 80% of the time. Anybody? I really like this truck...except this problem. Some people have said the torque converter is too tight.....not sure that's a thing or not. PLEASE HELP!!

Thought I saw people selling stuff on here. 2nd gen air box actually... I can't find classified section...any help? Thanks

I'll be ordering a new clutch here soon and I know my rear main is leaking so I'll be doing them at the same time. So with that being said, any tips to taking it out an how to install it? I don't wanna play with an $80 seal and do it 2-3 times before I get it right.

...Top of fuel module return lines…the smaller connection (roughly) is 5/16, the larger connection is 3/8. With Airdog 100 where would you connect the larger line? Return from engine or return from Airdog pump? ...Being larger lines are usually better in most cases (fuel line, exhaust, etc) Would there be any benefit going to larger return lines to fuel module? Thanks

Hello All, So I am in the market for a truck. I owned a 2002 6 speed a few years ago. I'm looking to get something similar. I would like to get newer but I am limited on budget. I was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on how heavy a camper a 2002 4x4 6 speed could comfortably pull. I guess I'm looking for a general rule of thumb- If I get a camper that is over 10,000#, do I need a dully? If I stay between 8 and 10,000# can I safely pull and stop without adding brake controllers and the lot. I like to keep things pretty simple, I just wanted to be educated before I begin my search for truck and camper. My goal is to have a…

Finally finishing up a new build that's been in the works for several years. April of 2000 built truck with 6 spd. We ppumped it with 01' wiring harness and ecm/pcm's. Installed the tone ring on the cam gear and just about everything else I can imagine that came on the 01'-02's. We are having trouble picking up the tach. Upon start up it will register (kind of erratic) for about 15-20 seconds then drops off. We haven't verified it's charging but assuming its not since there is no tach. We swapped wiring harnesses ecm's and pcm's with known good ones off an 01'. We've grounded and re-grounded just about everything. Swapped alternators…

Back in July I lost ECM output for my lift pump. I tested for AC noise at that time and had no issue so I corrected and added a fused power source and now it runs off a switch. BTW alternator is believed to have the same milage as the chassis which is 332,732 Two weeks ago to transmission started having issues with torque converter clutch lock up it was hunting a lot. I threw a scanner on it and started collecting live data. I find out my accelerator pedal position sensor will not register over 80% at wide open throttle. At this point I was very confused so I started testing more things including A/C noise again and the alternator is still fine my batteries…

2001...replaced fuel tank with pre 1999 tank, I’m not sure exactly what year donor was. On the inside of the (newer) 2001 tank, where the fuel goes in there is a 4 or 5 inch spout that deflects fuel just a little bit to the rear of tank. Pre 1999 tank does not have this spout inside of tank. Parts manual shows tank is used by gas and diesel models. Other minor differences …hose size, where hoses go into tank and different thread on gas cap. Question 1 Any ideas as to why OEM wants fuel diverted a bit to rear of tank? Wondering if I'm missing anything of real importance?

Any one know if an Isspro F/P gauge can be disconnected at the back to bleed off the air and then reinserted and retightened without buying a new compression wring? I'm not aware of how the plastic tube is sealed whether a compression wring like plumbing or what