2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Got a 2001 dodge ram 2500 getting fuel in the oil. Have tried 2 different sets of injectors 7x.010 and 6x.013, put new seals on them both times i used them.(yes i did watch them with valve cover off and could not see anything leaking out the top) I have switched the front seal on the vp44 and its still getting fuel in there. Performed a leak down test at 75 psi and dont have a single cylinder over 20% leak down. Im stumped on what the problem could be at this point. Anyone have an advice on what to look for or try next?

Well I installed my new BD Diesel Injectors and the truck runs good. Install went well oiled up the o-ring on the injector tubes and injectors every thing snaped into place. But I checked my oil level this morning and it seems that the oil is now over the full mark. Is it possible that the injectors would leak a bit after the install ? Thanks !

Hey all, I am back again sadly for more problems. I'll tell the backstory and all symptoms I'm having. Was headed home yesterday and check gauges light came on. Had oil pressure but noticed voltage was not reading. Parked the truck and shut it off and saw there was fluid leaking in front of the engine. Popped the hood and the belt came off and I assume it knocked the catch can (tbh I haven't emptied it and I've owned the truck for over a year) Noticed there was fuel in the fluid (oil) leaking and I smelled raw diesel. Checked the oil and there was sure as **** fuel and a damn good amount. Forums seems to say it's either injectors, crossover tubes, or the seal …

I'm working on my VP44 and ECM projects and need to know how much fuel is actually injected by the injection pump. This is so I can calculate a fuel rate in milli Liters for determining engine load and also for the overhead trip, mileage display computer. So i dug out my old VP44 core and did some measurements. I thought I would share what I found and get some confirmation or feedback. This is a SO pump with three injection plungers they are 7.3 mm diameter. The cam donut has a thickness of 10.5 mm at the maximum inward point and a thickness of 7.1 mm at the maximum outward point. So 10.5 - 7.1 = 3.4 mm of stroke. I don't have an ultra pr…

I just had to replace #5 injector line due to it breaking of at the head. Something that surprised me is that it would appear that the injector line appears to to be double walled with a very small line inside of the outer line separated by what appears to be nylon. I don't know that be an absolute fact but this is what I see from the damaged parts. Here is a pic of the knob that broke off at the head. I have not been able to cut the old line open to see. Is the entire line of this same construction? If so that would explain why I could not fold the line over to crimp it off. I will cut the old line open tomorrow and see what is there.

Does the head end of fuel injector line have some type of Teflon grommet or is a metal to metal contact. Could I clean up the cross over tubes and replace the o-rings and re-use them. I cleaned up cross over tube for #1 cylinder. It is pitted.

Good afternoon everyone, This past week my vehicle situation has changed and I have been driving my 99 daily. Since I have not driven it much this winter in the cold I don't think it sounds right. I can hear a knock or a rattle noise when driving it and think it is either a fuel knock or timing knock and hopefully not something else. The noise does not increase with rpms, but it is there. I believe the injectors are stock with 174k miles and the truck has a Quadzilla XZT+ chip. Both videos were taken with the chip in the "timing" setting. I have turned the chip to the off setting, the noise is there but faint. I have included a couple video clips, what …

got a pretty good leak going on, apperantly at the return tee at the back of the block. i have gone under the truck while the engine is idling but cannot see it leaking. it is however soaking wet. the fuel is coming down and hitting the front drive shaft and is being slung all over the place. when i park i leave a small puddle of diesel and can smell it pretty good. since i cannot see it leaking i am assuming the engine needs to be under load for it to leak.anyway its going to be a pita to work on. so anything yall know to make it easier would be appreciated. i am going to buy a new tee and replace it while i am back there. is there anything else that ususally fails in th…

I’m leaking fuel from a plastic line connected below and to the right of the fuel filter. I took out fuel filter but can only get one hand by the leak. I’ve tried getting at it from underneath and can’t. I took the wheel well plastic guard off and there is no room. My only option that I see is cutting the metal out of the wheel well big enough to get my hands at the problem. Would there be an access through the fire wall I don’t see. I think I put my fuel gauge in the wrong place because it aways maxes out at thirty and never goes lower. Besides the fuel leak I’m worried about my injector pump because my truck aways started right away and now I have to crank it multiple t…

Ok today i was in a hurry and while my truck was warming up in the driveway I notice a puddle under the truck. It was Diesel and it looked like it was coming from the bottom of the lift pump. About evey 5 second there was a drip while it was running only. I took another vehicle and didn't get back intime to look into it futher. Question will these leak at the bottom? It looked dry above it. Anyone had this happen to them? Thanks in advance for any input.:confused:

I had my vp44 out and re-installed it. About 1k later, I developed a fuel leak from the bottom of the VP 44 where the #1 injection line is connected. I have tried to tighten it up, but it doesn't want to seal. I haven't lost prime and the truck runs good, but leaks quite a bit. Any suggestions on how to make this seal up?

I searched the past 45 pages of articles looking before asking. 1999 Dodge Cummins 2500 with fuel leak at #5 cylinder at injection connector tube and injection line nut. The tube had a cracked O-ring so it was replaced with a new tube. On start up no leak, 1 mile down the road no leak, up on the interstate for 6 miles and it's leaking again. Retightened but still leaking. Pulled the line off to check the mating surfaces with also looked good. Still leaking, any ideas? Part 2: This is for me to understand. The tubes pops out easy, no problem getting the removal tool on the tubes. Once in place how does it stay in place and not turn when tightening? First time I change…

Truck started to start real hard yesterday and by the time I've done all my Christmas running it now has a good size leak up near the injector pump. If i let it run for about 5 minutes it has a pretty good size spot on the ground. I can't really see any wet fuel lines but it's definitely dropping down on the front diff. Could my injector pump itself be leaking? It does have an airdog pump on it but like I said I don't see any fuel on the lines. Got any suggestions? 98.5 24v if that helps any.

Started noticing fuel dripping from the fuel filter. Looks like it is coming from in between the top of the cannister and the side. I have taken the top of the cannister off the block, looked for cracks and debris. Then I put a new filter on and it is still leaking. I don't know if the manufacturer is putting in smaller o-rings or what. Any suggestions?If I can't figure this out, looks like I will be putting a new filter setup on the truck and removing the factory cannister.

on my 01 i have a fuel leak off of the back of the motor it only leaks when running i replaced the o-ring washers on the banjo bolt on the back of the head and the tee fitting dont seem to be leaking what else could be leaking it is dripping from the bottom of the bellhousing 01 dodge quad cab 5spd 285000 miles cold air intake afe, cooler tubz, duel electric fans, airdog 150, edge juice att. hot unlock, industrial injection dragon fire pump, .093 connector tubes, .093 lines, ats head studs, 300 hp injectors 7x16 , s400 turbo and s300 twins, custom billet intake plate, cooling mist water meth injection, valair twin disc clutch 3850lb, 1 3/8 input shaft, south bend upgr…

I recently installed a set of RV 275's. I had some fuel weeping at some of the connections at the head before replacement. I replaced two of my cross over tubes and all of the orings on the rest. I still had some weeping which has gotten steadily worse. On my trip back to work from home it was really bad and I have leaks at all of the connections. So bad it has washed the underside of the truck and coated the tail gate with fuel. I also leave a nasty stain any where I park it on a highway trip. Around town it is not bad, but still leaking. I am not sure what to do other than replace the orings again and see what happens. Anybody have any suggestions?

I have been looking for two days for a 2001 3500 fuel lever sending unit module without the fuel pump in it but, I can not find one. Anybody know where I can get one?? I have an Airdog 165 with a fuel module upgrade kit on it and one of the return lines is cracked sucking air :banghead: . My fuel pressure gauge is jumping from 16 to 19 erratically . I don't think installing a Vulcan draw straw would help me because, I still need to have that port for a return maybe? I am not sure. The Vulcan has three ports on it maybe I can some how plug the broke one off if I don't have to use it. Anybody know? Thanks for any suggestions

Since the weather has been warming back up, I have forgotten that I still have a problem with the truck cranking because of air in the fuel system. I think I'm convinced that the fuel lines supplied to me from AD are now dry cracking and allowing air into the system. I recently discovered fuel leaking from the top of the tank. Something I think is attributed to cracked fuel lines under pressure... It does not leave puddles, but it does drip occasionally. Any thoughts? I'm thinking I might want to redo the line with something else, but dunno what. I also have the JIC(IIRC) fittings, which would need to go or I have to retrofit everything... This mak…

"T" fitting in fuel line to pressure gauge is leaking. What's best to stop leak? Epoxy glue, thread locker, tephlon tape? This type of fitting in link. Not many threads to it and thin aluminum. http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7221-gdp-pushlok-fuel-pressure-sender-tee-38-12.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3_SRouC21QIVD3R-Ch18VQxUEAQYCCABEgKsS_D_BwE Thanks

Question 1. Larger 1/2 inch fuel lines seems to be what people like best for supplying fuel. What about the return line (line back to the tank) …Is there any benefit going with a larger return line? (Maybe to relive pressure as return line enters back to module with a small but OEM 5/16 fitting, or maybe the return line needs pressure?) Question 2. I'm having a hard time looking over and down at engine...In the pic, the return line is the lower one right? (top is brake line, middle hose is supply line and lower line is return?)