2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have a 2.5 lift with longer springs.My skyjacker control arms are played out.Who sells good strong arms?

got up to almost 30 this morning, so I thought it would start easy for me... ran the pre heat, bumped the starter to start the lift pump, then ran the pre heat again. It did fire a little, but then nothing. Rob said I didn't have any vapor during the crank. We pulled it about a half mile trying to start, and it did run momentarily. Then finally nothing. Just happened to have my reader on board, and I got a p1693 I knew that was a companion deal, and digging a little deeper on my code reader it had a timing issue in the vp. about this time I noticed my fuel lift pump no longer run…

Truck in my sig...... This truck has had a FASS 150 on it for @10 years, has and still does work correctly. Up until yesterday, key "on", pump ran a couple of seconds, or bump the starter and pump ran for @20 seconds. Yesterday, key "on", no pump, bump the starter, pump runs a few seconds and shuts off. The FASS is run with a relay plugged into the factory lift pump harness. The truck starts and runs, and maintains @14 psi constant after being started. I unplugged the FASS harness, tested the relay and the harness, checked out ok, and the pump runs with 12v direct to it. Key "on", the factory lift pump harness shows 7v, bump the starter it goes to 9v-10v for a few se…

99 24 valve, going uphill anywhere from 1500 rpms up, dosent matter what speed, im getting a strange whining noise. coming from the drivers side of the engine. any ideas? its not the turbo im pretty sure. also i have an oil leak coming from the bottom of the tranny bell housing, right on the edge of the cover for the flywheel and the torque converter. are the 2 related? havent noticed a loss in power, anything

Simple question is the original fuel cap vented?

(Forgive me if I asked this before) Make any difference which battery I charge up to?

Ok guys got my vacuum pump resealed, no more oil being pushed out the CCV, and got my vacuum lines replace so my heater works on all positions. Fixed the banjo bolt leak on the back of the head, and T fitting leak on the return line. But I still have a bad problem until the truck is fully warm it has no power still, and if the outside temp is below 40 it loses power bad. And still have a hard starting issue has to crank for around 20 seconds and then until it sets for about 3 hours itll stat back instantly. New batteries, cranks fast, new fuel filters, fass DRRP lift pump. 15psi fuel pressure idle, 9 WOT. Any ideas would help I'm thinking my VP44 is shitting the bed it's …

I installed a fass 100gph a few months ago and its been putting a steady 19 psi at idle and 17 at wot, and for the longest time now ive wanted to remove my stock fuel filter housing and lift pump. So i got to removing the housing and that all went well as did removing the stock lift pump. I left the bracket in plate to support the ecm wires, but i was just wondering what i do with the WIF and Fuel heater wiring. Can i just leave them unplugged without touching anything else (and tape them up) or is there a fuse or something i need to remove so i dont light the truck on fire because of the unplugged fuel heater plug? Please help, need to know asap ?

I went out and had some fun in my truck this weekend and now the power steering is acting up. I can't turn the wheels easy up less im on the throttle and i checked it for fluid and it is full still. is the pump starting to go out now?

Long time lurker, first time poster. Bear with me fellas. I purchased a 2002 with a flatbed for 3k (thought I was getting a decent deal) with wore out tires, an overcharging problem and a relatively bad oil leak. I knew I was going to have to dump some coin into the truck but now the frustration is getting to me. The first weeks I had the truck I didn't do much besides clean it, the guy I bought it from abused the truck to death and didn't fix much of anything. The guy would unplug the alternator, drive to work, plug the alternator in at lunch and let it charge for a bit and then unplug it and drive home. Who knows how long he did this for. …

Just wanted to make another plug for Pete's awesome kit. Another satisfied customer here with the instructions, video, and 'tools' to get the old seal out. My driveway hasn't looked this clean in months, and of course, she's a happy truck not dripping oil down onto the axle. I must have called Pete about 5 times when I did the repair and he was happy to help out every time.

Guys I am at a loss. I HOPE someone can help me, this is frustrating. Bought my first 24v Cummins, it’s an 01, 3500 dually, and 5 speed nv4500. She fires up beautifully, idles normally. Then it gots warm and it idles up, stays around 1500rpm or so. The tachometer isn’t working, I tried replacing the camshaft position sensor and it didn’t fix the tachometer, maybe communication issue? Does the CPS have anything to do with idle? OBD2 computer says idling at 1500rpm. The APPS sensor was replaced, and voltage set. Stays below 0.50 volts, around .44-.48. According to the sensors live data reading, the volta…

been having problems recently with the trans in my truck (47re) sort of hanging in 2nd first time was maybe a month ago after a rather fast pull off from a standstill but after it wouldn't change up from 2 to 3 I backed off a little and it changed up, was ok for days then happened again sometimes after accelerating. This morning I accelerated at traffic lights to beat a real slow car oncoming, did over 5 miles in 2nd and no matter what I did it would not change to 3rd Got to my workshop and checked the trans oil, brown but not burnt, time to change it but it's not done 20k Had to use my truck today towing my mobile workshop, set off from my workshop to th…

I happen to be wondering the web a bit and stumbled across Timbo's page and he's added new videos on calibration and adjustment of the Timbo's APPS sensor. http://www.dodgecumminsapps.com/Calibration_video.html

Need some help. I’m The second owner of the truck, 175,000 miles. All originally stock, only modifications is an air dog lift pump and a heater grid delete. When I disconnected the batteries to do the lift pump install a few months ago, I did an APPS reset using the throttle pedal. When I start and idle the truck over the past week, I can smell what seems like unburnt diesel from the exhaust pipe. After a few minutes driving down the road and at a stoplight, before the engine is it operating temperature, I can still smell the rich diesel, and inside the cab my eyes start to burn. No codes are being thrown, no check light is on. I was pulling my boat yesterday, 6…

This is my first post but I've been a long time lurker and have found tons of information here, so thanks y'all! I'm currently chasing a fuel leak in my 2001 that has eluded me at every opportunity. The leak is on the rear of the engine and only occurs after being driven some distance. Around town it doesn't leak, but every morning after my 17 mile commute to work it leaves a softball to dinner plate size puddle under the truck. I have replaced the washers on the return banjo on the back of the head and the seals in the fuel return tee. Upon doing this I noticed that the return tee is just hanging there, the mounting tab isn't bol…

Hey guys, While the engine is running, noticed the H-balancer has a slight wobble. Feels tight if i tap on it, but looking like some rubber pieces may have broken off. Otherwise runs smooth. no noticeble vibration beyond the normal diesel cummins clatter we all know and love! Are these known to fail?

I’ll keep this brief since my phone battery is low and it’s 110°. I was driving to San Diego from Tucson when the truck started losing power, throttle did nothing. When I pulled over the truck shut off. Now I can’t get it to start. I don’t have a fuel pressure gauge. No codes. When I try to start it, it just shakes really rough

Hello. I used the search option here to find out about my P0606 code. It sounds like my ecm has given up the ghost from what I have read. But I will let all the things that it is doing and hopefully y'all can confirm that it is time for a new ecm. I did a ac noise check. I'm getting .092 volts for a ac noise check. When I start the truck it will not rev higher than 1400 rpm, it goes from idle and jumps to 1400 rpm that is the only rpm range it 850 or 1400 that's it. I replaced the apps and it made no difference. Also the wait to start light will come on sometimes and sometimes not at all and other times there will be a delay in it coming on. I put my obd LX…

Everyone knows I just did a coolant flush not to long ago and change my thermostat for the 190*F from NAPA. Come to find out the new thermostat tend to lean on the high side of the 190's. No problem. MPG numbers seemed good. I started to wonder about if I changed the thermostat from 190*F to 180*F if the IAT would follow? Guess what it does. Instead of the constant +40*F offset the 180*F makes roughly a +30*F offset with 80*F outside temp the IAT floated 105-110*F. If your looking for colder IAT temps then the thermostat will give you at least -10*F drop. This was only a 30 mile round trip to town. I'll leave it in and watch the IAT and ECT closely for the next few days. …