2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hi, my name is jeremy Excuse me to disturb you, I have a dodge ram 24V 2500 99 with a 47 RE tranny, I have a little problem with my tranny> All the shifts are good, but the problem is the 2nd to 3rd hesitate, i need to accelerate more to pass this shift, and the 4 is ok > Ive changed the governor pressure only, not the transducer,and there is no changing! but I ask to myself if the problems would be a 2-3 valve stuck on the valve body, or the TPS is faulty! I adjust the front band and the rear too, the fluid was correct, red, and there is no particulate on the filter he was clean! So I need to your help before changing something…

Last year I got my tranny completely rebuilt,our local tranny specialist put everything heavy duty and it never performed too good it seemed like the shifting was sluggish from 1st to 2nd and now 9000K later the tranny let go again he pulled it apart and everything was wore out he replaced everything under warranty and he mentioned that the problem was the alternator, as anybody experience something similar?

Hi guys need some help here. I had the check engine light come on me driving home last night. I had the P0222 code. So I parked the truck and shut it off. Then I plugged into it and reset that code. Upon starting it immediately jumped to 1500rpms without touching the pedal and would not leave that range. I limped it home as I was really close. I suspected the apps. So I replaced it with an oem one along with the batteries bcuz they were going anyways. Just to rule those out of the equation. Also my alternator failed two days before so it's new and putting out 14.1. Anyways, after installing a new appsand batts, I attempted to perform the calibration procedure for it. I th…

Good morning everyone, I have a question regarding my 99 with a 47re. I decided to do some investigating because the truck developed a noise. I found that my torque converter to flexplate bolts were loose. I was able to get a half turn when retightening. So I have a few questions, any help or info you could share would be great. First, are these bolts TTY? Second, if they are not TTY, should I remove them, use locktite, and reinstall? And last, would you happen to know the torque spec on those bolts? Thank you guys for reading and for your time. This site has been a life saver many times. Brandon

So I just finished dropping an 01 engine in a 98.5 truck, dealt with the cmp signal error. But now my abs light won't go out. No abs related codes, no CELs and I can't get the ABS, motor to actuate via the scanner (modus from snap on). What am I missing?

So, finally got the truck all ready to go since rebiild. I got 1100 trouble free miles on it. Been pushing it hard, trying to weed out any bugs or issues. Hook up the 5th wheel, get going down the road, 4 miles....4 #@&#$! miles... And I blow a freeze plug on right under turbo on the water jacket. 4 miles.... Now, before ya ask, yes, I replaced all the freeze plugs during the build. However, I had them done at the machine shop when the block was getting worked over. So, now what...roadside assistance got me home....but for some reason I don't think the answer is to just put in a new freeze plug and then "go see what happen…

The outer seal in the drivers side of the front axle is leaking and getting worse. I first noticed this at a hotel a month ago then last night at the hotel we left a puddle on the ground, I know gear oil when I smell it so I know that the axle is leaking fluid onto the tyre and ground. I've done this before but never on this axle or this truck my question's are do you guys know of any tips or trick when it comes to these trucks do I need an axle puller how much time do you reckon is involved in this repair. Any input or advice is appreciated right now is the worst time for this truck to go down with a major repair thanks in advance.

So I've bought a set of sac 7x.011 dap nozzles 7 months ago, had them sent to local injector shop, right off the bat they said they look cheaper(they are by a bit), and the spray angle is wider. Dap claims there 225 hp injectors. They seem to not be much better than the 120s from ii I had on before, maybe got a little more power, a nasty haze at idle and white cruising. On top of that comes out more white ish black than just black on take off. That being said I'm interested in the weston 6x.013s and wanted to see how good they are and if they are as dirty. Let me know what ya think. Thanks

2001 Cummins 2wd tach works for 7 seconds then stops replaced cam sensor any other suggestions thanks for the help

Ok so yesterday I installed mopar1973man high idle kit on my brothers 02 dodge cummins 2500. I followed instructions black plugs go to coolent temp sensor and white plugs go to iat sensor. The iat sensor was not a easy as i though to get too. Next plug the white plug through the fire wall to see put the chip in and plugged it in. Grabbed my scan guage plugged it in to see if everything changes it did. What my brother noticed was white smoke bad. Looked up sure as you though check engine lights on. Looked at codes p0118 engine coolant temp circuit high input. P0113 air temp sensor circuit stays above 4.5 volts. And the worst one P0216 injection timing control circuit. Now …

Is there a "best" spot to install a FASS or Airdog pump? Thinking closer to tank because I heard the pumps are better at pushing fuel than pulling. What about cold weather? Any place better than another?

Hi, Do not want to wrongly blame ECM much less buy one needlessly. Lot of articles and Truckers say ECM’s rarely go bad. So, one last sanity check to be sure. My understanding is as follows: - WTS should “always” illuminate immediately after switch is turned on. (I’m told it indicates computer has “booted” up.) - Once WTS goes off, I should “always” be able to bump engine and hear LIFT pump cycle for 25s. Q1. Should the above events take place every single time? What I know: Batteries are good. Charged and tested with DEAD Load tester. Alternator is charging. Noise is .03-.04 max. (Not perfect, but don’t be…

I havent been here in awhile Has anyone researched the new Delo oil labeling containers you see at the store Delo 400 SDE SAE 15W-40 Im wondering if the changed the zinc/phosphorous and other content from what the 400LE was? Edit: Yep, they sure did take out some Zinc and Phosphorus Delo 400 LE 15-40 https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=415568&docFormat=PDF Delo 400 SDE 15-40 https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=481951&docFormat=PDF

Hey Guys, New to the Forum, but not new to Cummins diesel trucks. I limped my Cummins home on idle as this is all it would do. 2002 Dodge Cummis 4x4 6 speed manual. Basically stock, except for Smarty programmer and Airdog 100 fuel pump along with pillar gauges to monitor. Host of codes showing up when I read them off my Smarty programmer. I swear I have a bad ground or something of that nature, but I don't know where else to look. I'm almost at my wits end! Things I have already done: Cleaned battery terminals both batteries. Replaced APPS with Timbo Replaced MAP sensor-Factory Cummins part Replaced IAT sensor -Factory Cummins part …

Well I've been wanting to install a toggle switch to engage and disengage my CAD for a while now and finally took the time today to tackle the project. It will allow me to use the low range on my transfer case and remain in 2wd. It's very handy when moving trailers around in tight spaces like steep driveways and such in the mountains where I'm primarily working. I used a Clifford MJTV-5 pneumatic toggle switch and 1/4" air brake line. @TFaoro this should work for you as well so you can eng/disengage your CAD.

Ever since its warmed up, that gear hunting has come back. It's even worse now. Just out of curiosity, i called a transmission shop and asked them. They said it could be one or both governor pressure solenoid or a check ball in the valve body. How likely is that? It seems temperature dependant, which baffles me. Is the consensus still AC noise from the alternator?

I changed injectors last Friday and over tightened the 2 bolts in the back that has the injection lines on them. The gasket must have been a bit brittle and split and blew out. I only removed the lines to 1,2,4, and the plate came out the front. Now the problem that I see is getting the plate and the gasket back in there together. I was wondering if it would be a problem if I put something like silicon or grease or gasket shellac to hold the gasket in place or is it a no sealer type of gasket.

Found a replacement fuel tank for 2001 3/4 ton. It came with 3 rocks about 3/4 of inch by 3/4. My first thought was kids? Then again I wonder if the rocks were put in tank to slide around the bottom to keep it clean. Wondering if they were put in on purpose? Your thoughts... have you ever heard of this before?

I got a job that a 2001 Dodge was having lock up issues typically. Now the owner had the BD noise filter, the APPS wiring mod and ground mods. Still in all the truck ran with a surge and dropping of power. The old alternator I measured at 0.1 to nearly 0.2 volts AC. He replaced the alternator I measured today and its right about 0.04 to 0.05 marginal. Still the loss of power and surging. The owner has a Bank's tuner on so I opted to removing the MAP leads and return to stock and the Wire Tap. Went for a test drive and the problem is gone. Moral of this post is alternator noise can do damage to even 3rd party device like tuners.

Which way is the nut threaded, righty tighty lefty loosey or the reverse? About to take mine off and dont want to drive myself crazy, I know its on there good. I have plenty access.