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2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. Started by Dieselfuture,

    Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I…

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    • 266 replies
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  2. Started by dripley,

    I finally got started on this in earnest today. Did a little on it Monday pm. Then today after the morning mist died away and I got the doctors appointment out of the way the fun began. Itwent pretty well. Not one ceased bolt. They all came out nicely. Made this far today. My helper. The offending leak. The oil is from some bad pouring out of the gallon jug. Now a couple questions. Those metal strips between the pairs bolts at the front and rear of the exhaust manifold, are they necessary to reinstall? I thought they were under the bolt heads until I destroyed them all and realized they were over the bolts. They appear to keep…

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    • 211 replies
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  3. Started by Cummin Dodge,

    Found oil in the coolant so I pulled the head off this weekend and will be dropping the head off at the machine shop tomorrow. I was wondering what everyone though the best head gasket was to use. I now have 100 horse scheid injectors. and will be adding a hx40, ats exhaust manifold, and arp studs at this time. Truck will be sled pulled and drag raced some but also daily driven. Thanks

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    • 18 replies
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  4. This morning the wife took her truck to drop off some cayacks to my daughter and she is gone for about 10 minutes and she come back telling me there is white smoke coming from the exhaust. I got take a look, start the engine and sure enough a notable plume of white smoke (steam) is coming from the exhaust just idling. I immediately turn the engine off, pop the hood and open the oil filler cap and the crank case is pressurized slightly as I can hear the pressure escape when I removed the cap. (I think this is a secondary issue of mud daubers clogging up the crankcase vent tube as the truck sets 97% of the time) I pull the dip stick and there does not appear to be evide…

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    • 14 replies
    • 4.3k views
  5. Started by Alexio Auditore,

    Must be the year of head gaskets, because mines leaking as well, but im trying to hold off a little longer so I can be without the truck for a time. But I'm not sure if I'm leaking from another spot in the front as well? There is a plug that is underneath the thermostat housing that seems to be wet, even after driving a while. I know it's leaking above it, but that evaporates during the drive, while from the plug down, it doesn't. I can't tell if there is coolant leaking from the waterpump as well. I wipe it clean, start the truck, and I can see coolant coming up around between the pump and block, but that could be trapped coolant that is coming up betwee…

  6. So as the title states, is it necessary to retorque (ensure all bolts are up to correct ft/lb) the head bolts after break in and some mileage after full rebuild? So far i have about ~3000miles on my rebuild. I have had no issues but i heard rumors of needing to recheck torque on all head bolts. I am also unsure of what the ft/lb is to check for if needed. I did do proper install on head per rebuild manual. thoughts suggestions?

  7. Started by LorenS,

    I plan to install my new injectors soon and was wondering if that would be a good time to install head studs. Can a guy loosen all 26 bolts, then install the studs 'finger tight' one at a time without worrying about the head shifting or otherwise affecting the head gasket? Or, is it recommended to completely remove the cylinder head and install new gasket when installing studs?

  8. Started by Blueox01,

    Anybody know anything about Xotic performance head studs

  9. Started by Spdfrk,

    It's time to add head studs and I know I'm getting new, stronger valve springs as well. Is there anything else you all would recommend doing at this time as well??

  10. Started by 01cummins6,

    Leak coming from front passenger corner of block. Quit for awhile then started again. No coolant in oil

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  11. Started by mohok,

    Will someone please explain the best way to do this. I just received both left and right complete assemblies ($113.53 to my door cost from EBAY). When I tried to remove the old ones I ran into a problem. Looks like I have to remove the top cap on the front bumper, yes/no?ThanksHNK

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  12. Started by eaglesilas,

    A while ago I hit a deer,my Right headlight got busted. I replaced the light and bulb.The high beam light came on and wound not go off of,driving lights and high beams stay on at the same time.I have checked the fuse and they are all good the high beam light does not go off stays on .Does anyone know what the problem could be.I would appreciate it if some one could help me .thanks

  13. http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1361999&m=wc&l=en&html=true Mostly brake parts, some electrical, seals and rear drums.

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  14. Started by Heavyd1980,

    has anyone heard of or had any dealings with floor it diesel in lawerence, ks???

  15. Replaced the hard line from the tranny to heat exchanger with fittings and hose, because mine was bent and a pain to line up the threaded ends. $63 from Jegs -8 AN= 1/2" Fittings at transmission- 1/4" NPT to -8 AN and -8 AN 90 degree bend push loc Fittings at heat exchanger- 3/8" NPT to -8 AN and -8 AN straigh push loc 10' of -8 AN(1/2") parker hose

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  16. Started by chrisrmerritt,

    Hey guys, Ok im going to be putting on my BHAF today!!! and I have a question. Do you really need a heat shield? and if so where would I go to get a cheap one?

  17. Started by SWATPARAMEDIC,

    My heater is warm at best when the truck is at normal operating temperature, using a temperature sensor on my multimeter it's only about 100 degrees. Just had a new headgasket put on at a local diesel shop and the head machined and tested with no leaks or cracks in the head. Put a new waterpump and Cummins thermostat in it, not sure if it was a 180 or 190 but it runs right at 190 according to the dash gauge. What should be the normal temperature of the air coming out of the heater? And any ideas what to check?2001 3/4 5.9 L Standard output, rebuilt engine stock.

  18. Started by Max Tune,

    Bought my truck in September 2018. 2002 3500. Winter came and all I could get out of my dash vents on position 2 was 80°f. Position 3 was 75°f. Position 4 would blow cold air. Installed grill blanket, no change. Installed 190 NAPA thermostat, temp guage now runs slightly higher and more consistent but no change in vent heat temp. Installed heater treater, no change. Flushed heater core with hose, temp now at 110°f on fan setting 2 and 95°f on fan setting three. Guess I have a heater core replacement in my future. Watched Mopar mans vid and I'm going to wait till summer to do it because I have to work outside in my driveway....... Can't wait!!!!! …

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  19. Started by cummins,

    Hi there guys I Have this leak coming from a hose that's from the heater core what can I do to fix it ? Is there a special procedure I need to do ? Thanks for the help. http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af352/soriasholsteins/13cf7ea4.jpg''>http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af352/soriasholsteins/13cf7ea4.jpg' rel="external nofollow"> http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af352/soriasholsteins/13cf7ea4.jpg

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  20. Started by mopar440cu,

    Have any of you changed your metal heater exchange coolant lines that run under the exhaust manifold to make more room for the 3 piece exhaust manifold? See attached pic of where I am pointing to. The piping is really tight and close to it. I can only adjust it a little and the new turbo blanket will help with the heat to them. I was thinking of changing them somehow and was wondering if anyone has done this mod? Thanks!!

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    • 50 replies
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