2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My current Heat exchanger is a little crispy after the 20 years of service and a few years around some road salt. I've seen several listings on Heat exchangers varying in prices from ~$800 dollars to as low as ~$200 dollars and curious if anyone has found a difference between them or has had issues with the different options out there. Trying to save penny's where I can without risking the reliability of the truck. Eventually I also do plan on adding an additional cooler in the loop but curious if size of the cooler will add (if such a thing) too much restriction. And lastly, currently I have my Trans Temp sensor located on the output of the trans, but I…

Hello, I have a late 1999 24 valve sport model appears to be 4 wheel abs, just extra information. Have edge comp, S&B cold air intake, 5 inch turbo back straight pipe, and RV injectors. Rest of truck is stock. Anyway, I am just curious as to if it is normal for the stock temp gauge on the dash to be at 140*F on a cold engine in the summer. Sits for about a week then drive it off and on this summer 2022, temps reaching high 90*F. But yeah, when I go to use the truck after starting the temp gauge is already reading 140*F. I know that is not normal but I just would like a 2nd opinion. I also do have the Mopar1973Man High Idle/Eco Switch installed. It is …

Ive been off the site for a while due to so many circumstances over the last 3 years as im sure so many of us have. Im hoping some of the older knowledge is still floating around because i may need some help or if nothing else i can document the story a little bit here Back in 2017 i had the transmission rebuilt for the first time by a good friend at a reputable shop with plenty of experience. He did a great job. What was done then- (cause of failure was TC welding itself together and subsequently toasting the rest of the unit while i trying to get it home) billet triple disc, shift kit, GM sensor and governor, replaced one drum (with a good used o…

Just did the CAT filter replacement on my fass titanium pump.... called fass tech to double check which filter goes where since I couldn't find the factory instalation directions (had crappy service so couldn't look up online). They told me that the fuel filter goes on the side with two lines and the h20 separator goes on the single line side. Well guess what, that's backwards. I got home and found my paper printed directions. I only drove like 10 miles with the filters backwards.... did I cause any damage? Furthermore, why in the literal hell would anyone at fass tell me incorrect information?

I've spent the last two days working on the install of a new hx 35/40 turbo and pac brake unit. Today I finished up and went to start it with no luck. It initially ran a couple of seconds on numerous attempts to start it and then just completely quit trying to fire. Details: A few weeks ago I installed a kill switch in the grounding wire of the fuel pump relay. If I forget to switch the hidden switch to "on" it spins over but won't start and throws code 1689. Today, the spinning but no starting reminded me of the result of the kill switch being in the off position so I wired the relay back to stock configuration to rule out an issue with the switch with…

Yeah I've got a previous customer back. The white Dodge that I did the AirDog had a problem with 4WD and it wasn't locking in. First thought was CAD axle issues but after testing the transfer case and seeing if the shaft locks nope. Something wrong it the transfer case. I pulled the drain plug nothing came out but 4 drops of black thick oil. Removed the transfer case and open the inspection plate and ther is broken metal, plastic, and pieces. I'm heading to Boise Transmission warehouse to get a reman transfer case Tuesday morning.

Alright so after getting all my boost leaks fixed, I was finally able to install the ARP studs, and remove the Smarty tune. I’ll be installing the Adrenaline this week, as well as a set of Infinite Performance 7x.010’s. The goal was to have a reliable tow rig at around 325-350 HP, but a forum member lives down the road from me and is offering a really good deal on a 62/68/12 SXE. So I’m considering doing that and making my hp goal 400hp. Will this tuner/injector/turbo combo give a good reliable towing experience? Is that turbo gonna be slightly too big? Should I wait and get a 57/65/12? Don’t want a lot of smoke, don’t want 600hp…just a solid reliable 350-400hp for dd and…

I recently tossed the automatic and installed a G56 manual in my 98.5 short box. Love the trans but now I have too much axle wrap. My rear springs are on the soft side because I took a leaf out of each side to improve ride and offset it with a pair of coil springs. I have had traction bars before, on this truck and two previous trucks. Each set sucked. The last set I paid something around $700 because they were supposed to be good and beefy, but the heim joints quickly wore and rattled and clunked like mad. . .heims at both ends (bad idea and not quality ones at that). Also it seemed to bind suspension travel, ride quality wasn't that good. On…

I know most of you have looked at your oil pan and wondered if the oil pan can be removed easily. The answer is yes. You can remove the oil pan completely but you will need a few heavy-duty tools like a bottle jack or an engine hoist. The first thing you going to need to do is jack up the truck so the axle hangs freely. Then you want to drain all the oil from the pan. In my case, I had to do tie rod ends and a new drag link so this was all removed. I removed the wheels from the axle and allowed the axle to just hang freely. Loosen up both engine mounts bolts till the nuts are to the end of the threads. Now set up an engine hoist and hook it to the front hoist ring of the …

I have less than 10,000 miles on some DAP 50hp injectors but as many of you have said, always go bigger! I purchased some DAP 8 x 0085/100hp nozzles and put them on my stock/factory bodies that had less than 60k on them. A local FI shop checked out the bodies, installed the nozzles and popped them at 310. The increase in power going from the 50's to the 100's seemed greater than going from the stockers to the 50's. It has a nice little puff of smoke when you get on it from a standstill but is otherwise smoke free. I really want the power to kick in when needed up at cruise speed and I'm trying to pass some farm truck on the rural highway that is doing 53mph ( I call it th…

Hello all, just joined the page so please forgive me if I don't do this right. I have a 98 2500 24v auto, and ever since I've owned the truck I've been having this issue but just never attempted to do anything about it until now. I've just rebuilt my transmission to hold 550hp, am looking to add a tuner but I know I should fix this before I try to add more power. I have read the forum here about adjusting the apps and numerous other forums and cannot find anything to specifically relate to my issue. To start, my issue is that when I plug in my OBD scanner, my APPS sensor was reading 8.6% at idle and 71.3% at wide open throttle. So, after doing so…

Just wanted to express appreciation for communities like this. I haven’t posted/interacted much but I’ve been reading and applying what I’ve read. I’m too green to really chime in other than questions, anyway. I picked up a truck a couple months ago with the intention of building it into a tow rig. It’s not a full time commercial rig but I work remote and the wife and I want to be on the road a lot, so getting the truck ready was a priority. Doing WT’s ground wire mod fixed the annoying TC cycling issue and the vp44/injectors sound happier with a lift pump. Reading here has me settled on a Quadzilla and likely 100hp injectors (rather than 50’s and want…

I am planning the do a cooling system maintenance on my 1998.5 and have not been able to find the correct thermostat for it . The ones that I have been handed are the large one for the 12 valve. I did try one about 7 years ago and had such wild swings in temp that I thought I had done something wrong. After much thought and trouble shooting I found that the thermostat did not look like what I removed ( my fault I did not compare them when I removed the old one). I went back with the old one and finally found one that matched. Here I am 7 years later and the only one that I can find is for the 12 valve and in their data base it said that that is the only one fits from 89 t…

I replaced my ECM and FCM plugs with pigtailed aftermarket plugs. When I started the truck it idled normally but when i pressed the accelerator there was a loud grinding noise under the hood. What could I have done to cause this? It sat for over a month before I made the repair. Disconnected batteries first. Spliced wires one at a time. Reset throttle sensor before starting. No codes.

It surges when eng is cold and after it warms up it seems fine. It reminds me of a tank half full of water, you feel the push then it drags back. I just installed new vp44, new injectors, crossover tube o rings, new airdog 165. Talked with Lenny at DAP and he suggested hooking up Iquad and see what datta it might show. I havent installed the Quadzilla Iquad yet because of this. I also just reset my apps a few minutes ago to see what happens in the morning. A real head scratcher, I hear about ecm's doing this but its always when it heats up, or the vp doing this as it heats up. This gets better as it heats up.

@Mopar1970man - Was looking at one of your YouTube vids on some of your iQuad numbers and you mentioned on the phone to me earlier that your fuel and intake air are practically equal - or chasing each other as you said it in the vid. How are you achieving this? And is this any correlation to optimizing MPGs? My operating fuel temp is always higher than my intake air temp, probably 20-30 degrees higher if memory serves. They never get that close. Curious on others out there what they see.

My neighbor was driving my dodge the other day when one of the fan blades broke off and hit the radiator. I haven’t seen it yet but that’s how he described it. Anyone else had this happen?

I have to say I'm not a fan of the dry fit seals used on the crank. I've had bad luck with leaks. I have replaced a few on my own and others engines. The crank looks fine, sometimes I clean them up with fine Emery cloth. I use the seal installer that usually comes with it and center the seal housing as best I can before tightening the bolts. I never tried the shaft saver ring type most parts stores give me deer in the headlights look when I ask about a kit. Does it require machine work? Anyone use an alternative traditional seal?

So the seal is leaking in the cab and it looks to be the original so I ordered a new one. While I'm there should I replace the master cylinder also?

Custom AirDog 150 Install Doing a custom AirDog install I think the hardest thing that people struggle with is getting the draw straw installed properly in the proper place. First of the draw straw should not be installed in the sender basket. The reason is the return fuel from the rear of the head is heated by the heat of the head and that will be the first fuel you going to pump back to the VP44. We all know that you want cool fuel for the VP44 this is a bad idea. Second, your draw straw needs to be installed in the fuel tank away from the sender where the hot fuel is returned. I typically use the high spot just forward of the sender which typically has no other int…