2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Hi gents, New here to the forum picked myself up a 2002 24v a few months back, I'm still in school so haven't got to working on the truck much yet but did notice I had a few codes when I bought it: P1594 - Charging system voltage too high P1492 - Ambient/Battery temp sensor volts too high P1763 - Governor pressure sensor volts too high Anyone had any experience on where to start with these codes? Truck runs well, only problem is when it warms up it seems to have a rough idle when not in gear. No issues starting even in the middle of winter, fires right up. Thanks in advance for the help.
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The stuff I've been using makes this claim. It's made from veggies now vs. petrol. What do you guys think Lubricity : D6079 HFRR lowered wear at 1-5 treat rate .37mm. Important for increasing lubricity in lower sulfur fuels. High heat at injector tip ( can weld plunger to barrel ) additives must add lubricity for longevity and proper operation. Well below CAT limit, .52 mm @140F allowance by ASTMD6079. PASS http://www.lcdinc.com/index.php
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Have had this truck for going on 5 years now and it came with LT265/75R16 tires on it. Believe that these are one size larger than stock? Details on the truck below on my signature.Put some new replacement tires on a year ago (same size) and two of them lasted for six months then started having tread separation issues and were replaced under warranty but still cost me $40 in the process. Now six months later the other two are gone, bouncing all over the place on the hiway. Big O tire where I got them looked at them and its replacement time.Problem is that this brand does not have this tire or model anymore. This is the SAILUN TERRAMAX H/T and its been a nice tire otherwis…
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Well my friends truck with NV4500 has a problem with 5th gear nuts we have fixed it a few times now over a couple years now. 1st repair put a fancy new nut with set screws and 3 small welds about 1/4 inch wide. Mig welded nut to shaft. Lasted maybe a year 2nd repair he put the nut back on and mig welded the hell out of it, all the way around the shaft. A couple months later on a long trip with trailer the shaft broke completely where the weld was. 3rd repair we put an after market shaft in it with full splines and threads. A very expensive shaft. It had a new washer and nut with it we also replaced the 5th gear. The nut had 3 set …
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Just did the CAT filter replacement on my fass titanium pump.... called fass tech to double check which filter goes where since I couldn't find the factory instalation directions (had crappy service so couldn't look up online). They told me that the fuel filter goes on the side with two lines and the h20 separator goes on the single line side. Well guess what, that's backwards. I got home and found my paper printed directions. I only drove like 10 miles with the filters backwards.... did I cause any damage? Furthermore, why in the literal hell would anyone at fass tell me incorrect information?
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Gents,I have searched for months trying to get a definitive answer on a question that has boggled me.2001 2500 rear axle with 35spline full float shafts (verified when i did axle seals), Is this a FULL D80 or a hybrid D70/80?Reason for question is for a locker (detroit). I have tried to look for identification and have been unsuccessful.tnx
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My truck has a two pillar pod, both egt and boost gauges are toast. In my new to the Cummin's world mind, I think I want EGT, fuel pressure and trans temp and boost as first gauges. My 2000 24v has a new Fass titanium, new injector pump, running Smarty #1. Would I be better off with the electronic reads it all or should I install all new mechanical gauges? I don't tow or beat my truck but I want it to live a long life. This is a daily driver which sees a couple miles of crappy roads then 90 miles of hiway 5-6 days a week. Advice from people with similar situations would be much appreciated! Much thanks for the forum and advice!
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Looking for some opinions. I have a 99 with an automatic. It's mostly a daily driver and I drive like a Grandpa. We plan on buying a camper next year, somewhere probably in the 3000 to 4000lb range, to go out a few times a year. I just serviced the transmission and adjusted the bands. Everything is working like it should. I'm wondering if a double deep pan and a shift kit is necessary, or if it will increase the durability of the tranny significantly. I'm a preventative maintenance nut so the tranny will be serviced regularly with or without the mods. Also, I'm running a stock exhaust. Would I see any benefit from a 4" exhaust over stock with my current setup? (see…
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I’ve had my fuel boss on for years. No issues other then replacing dried out cracked rubber fuel lines over time. I want to delete my oem fuel filter and run a frame mounted setup like GDP’s stand alone filter w/ heater. By using a FS19596 filter I can have a connection for the oem wif sensor. I also want to delete the oem electric lift pump. Has anyone here bypassed the stock lift pump and ran straight mechanical? And if so how did you plumb it? Im thinking 3/8” line from tank to filter, then to mech. pump then to VP44. But I need to regulate the pressure with the bypass valve so should I tee it from the return side up to the vp? The r…
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Long story short. I plug in block heater GFI outlet breaker trips. I don't see any breaks in the wiring. So is my cord from the block heater bad? Is the block heater bad? or both? It was all working up until this week. I used the same outlet and extension cord with some power tools and they all worked fine.
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hey all , been a while.ya'll got me going last time i had trouble , maybe someone has had this problem. my wait to start light quit coming on. could it be my grid heater?
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Name of Substance 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate Synonyms 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate EINECS 248-363-6 Ethylhexyl nitrate Nitronal Systematic Name 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate Nitric acid, 2-ethylhexyl ester Superlist Name 2-Ethylhexyl nitrate Nitric acid, 2-ethylhexyl ester
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I recently bought a scan gauge II. since install I have noticed while idling the reading for the apps sensor will jump from 0% to 10%, + or - a little. It does this very intermittently and only for a split second. I notice no change in the engine rpm just the sensor reading. Anyone else see a similar reading on theirs?
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Gents,Have been slowly upgrading my 2500 Cummins and getting it the way it should be. With everyone's assistance it now has a full set of gauges and a Raptor LP and drawstraw. Using a Edge/Attitude but its pretty much there just for the gauges. The wire to the VP44 is not even hooked up so running at level 1. Had the truck for a year or so and know it pretty well. Was getting 23-24 mpg on the overhead gauge in town, and 26-27 on the highway. No towing, running 60-65 or so, usually not faster. Did some work over in SoCal recently so filled up on the Arizona side of the border ($2.72!) and headed home. Did 670 miles before filling up again and it took 27 gallons. Overhead d…
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Hi all. This question is directly related to an ongoing thread at Cumminsforum, in which MoparMan is a contributor. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/search.php?searchid=9890709 I didn't want to high jack the thread, so here I am. Ultimately, it's about fuel efficiency & injectors, but bear with me! I've got a new to me '99Cummins 2500, 5spd, with 207K mls, fully stock. Had it checked out thoroughly before purchase, and everything is A OK. Recent clutch and tranny rebuild. My only concern now is the fuel system (which brings us back to the above mentioned thread). Getting ready for a 2 month Baja trip and want to make sure everything is good before I g…
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Hello everyone.. I'm lost and hope someone has experienced this before!! Bought a rollover truck and came with half ton body. Swapped body and pcm. Original chassis and engine wiring.. Knew vp44 was shitty before swap.. Tried to start it anyway.. No dice.. So a known good vp was installed. Truck still wouldnt start.. Shows batt voltage at the plug with it plugged in and cranking or not... Cut wires off plug, hot wired truck 6/7 pins while plug still connected.. No start.. Unplug the connector and hotwire truck fires right up.. Seems like something is keeping the truck off in the computer.. Shut off wire blue with red already cut off too... Help!!!!
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Autoignition DefinitionThe autoignition temperature or kindling point of a substance is the lowest temperature at which it will spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. This temperature is required to supply the activation energy needed for combustion. The temperature at which a chemical will detonate decreases as the pressure increases or oxygen concentration increases. It is usually applied to a combustible fuel mixture.Autoignition temperatures of liquid chemicals are typically measured using a 500 mL flask placed in a temperature controlled oven in accordance with the procedure described in ASTM E659…
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I would like to try taking out the alternator fuse just to see if it helps, can you tell me where the fuse is for sure so i dont take out the wrong one (i know that sounds stupid) I just want to make sure i dont take out a relay or something - - - Updated - - - I was also wondering where the alternator diode is, since it said the guy changed the alternator and it didn't fix it i figured the diode isnt in the alternator
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My 1999 ram 2500 has a hard start, no start condition I have to unplug the pcm and ground wires to battery with the key on to get it to start and sometimes it goes to wto at start u. Any help would be appreciated
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Ok Gang... I know we got a lot of knowledgeable guys with a few extra part in the garage and a bit of extra time here and there... I got a wonderful member that is need of help here. Russ is in a pinch with the economy going down and with his disabilities it hard for him to do the work himself. So I'm asking all the members of the site to please look at this message below and see if you can help Russ out... What I'm asking is if there is any member on the east coast near Rhodes Island that could give Russ a hand by either donating time or possibly parts to his cause.
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