2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

He posted his question to the wrong place so I will post what he put so he might have some responses when he gets back.2002 2500 cummins 4x4 starts and runs good says no bus and overhead says ccd truck goes in limp mode solutions???

Hey I might of hit close to you guys problem... Another member was talking about Trans swaps... I just found a tidbit for you JL... This might be you problem the ECM is from a Auto and the anti-stall is DISABLED... The flash might be your trick...

It did it about 6 months ago and I just shrugged it off. Yesterday it jumped out twice, It has new oil in it. When I bought the truck it just had fifth gear fixed to keep it from falling off. I am thinking they welded it on because sometimes you shift and its smooth and other times its mushy and does not feel like its all the way in. What I do is go to neutral and back to fifth and it feels right then. Can this be a easy fix or just can it and get another trans, it has 294k on it. If can it who would you recommend ?

Once my truck gets warm the clutch gets real jumpy, when trying to back up slowly or starting in 2nd. Could this be a slave cyl problem or is my clutch bad? There is a small amount of oil sweating from between trans and bell housing but nothing at flywheel

Looking for some opinions. I have a 99 with an automatic. It's mostly a daily driver and I drive like a Grandpa. We plan on buying a camper next year, somewhere probably in the 3000 to 4000lb range, to go out a few times a year. I just serviced the transmission and adjusted the bands. Everything is working like it should. I'm wondering if a double deep pan and a shift kit is necessary, or if it will increase the durability of the tranny significantly. I'm a preventative maintenance nut so the tranny will be serviced regularly with or without the mods. Also, I'm running a stock exhaust. Would I see any benefit from a 4" exhaust over stock with my current setup? (see…

I looked at my build sticker in the glove box for the rear end gear ratio and I noticed the rear axle states it's an "anti-spin" differential. In dodges terms is this the same as a posi traction or locker? Just curious. Thanks!

Glad to have found this forum....Ok, here's the deal. This truck was last tagged in 2011. It was drove/cranked periodically for very short periods while sitting 99.9% of the time. I got it tagged and inspected, filled up with fuel. I've put about 350 miles on her trying to see if Lucas fuel treatment might resolve some issues....as I am new to owning a Diesel, in general. I've done a lot of googling though, LOL. All right, here's what's up. It busts off and cranks fine, every time....but it lopes very hard and spews white/blueish smoke....very strong diesel smell until it warms up a bit. Once warmed or ran, it cranks fine. Second issue...Usually after …

Hello everybody I appreciate any advice. I just purchased a 2001 Dodge 2500 5.9L Cummings, This truck only has 95,000 miles on it in great condition but it hasn’t been driven very much in the last five years I am going to change oil, oil filter, fuel filter anything else you recommend doing to it. Also it gave me a P0234 code Overboost. When I was on the freeway getting on it, cleared the code it came back a few days later on the freeway again recommendations thanks zev

:banghead: Darn it all... I'm wondering if this issue is coinciding with my previous post on the paculiar rattling noise I was having. It seems my pyro gauge is no longer functioning... I dunno if it is the gauge itself or if it is the probe. My money is on it being the probe. I noticed when I got home from the grocery store that the pyro was at 150 degrees. No way I can ever drive light enough to get it that low. Engine idle does not even allow it to be that cool. So, I opened the hood, no apparent signs right off the bat. I had the driver door open and hood up. Cranked the engine, made a funny noise. Let it run for a second, to see if the inoperable gauge is just a fluk…

Here is the deal. Saturday I flipped up the drain valve for the fuel filter canister to drain the fuel out. I unscrewed the lid for the fuel filter, pulled the old one out. Snapped the new one into place and made sure the new gasket was seated. Fuel filter canister looked clean so I installed the new filter. Pushed the drain valve back down. turned the key to on and I could hear the lift pump working to fill the filter canister back up. Repeated this two more times. Started the truck and it ran good for a couple seconds then died. I then repeated the same process with turning the key thinking it still did not have enough fuel in the filter housing. Cranked it three times …

I'm not sure if the video came through, but this one's just for fun. This is Skyler Oestrich's (Dynomite Diesel Products) race truck on the chassis dyno at Hunting 4 Horsepower here in North Idaho last Saturday. Any HP guesses?

Just got done installing my Airdog 100. Like it so far, 18 psi at idle and 15 wot. Time to save up and then on to the next mod.

Hey Gentlemen, I am back I just installed a new VP and everything was back to normal for a couple of weeks ,I started to notice the extened cranks, dont get me wronge this new vp flips over 10 times better than the old one but not like it did when first installed ,it takes about 1 complete or 2 complete starter turnovers or around 1 full second to fire up ,when it used to flip over right away ,any thoughts or ideas ,would it be because the fuel is not heated anymore ?

i have been using the carter campaign pump, for awhile now just bought the air dog2. when i installed the campaign pump i cut off the quick connect now with the new air dog it has the quick connect I NEED TO KNOW WHAT COLORS THE HOT AND GROUND ARE SO I CAN SPLICE IN NEW MALE CONNECTOR, to air dog. the two wires appear to be one white and a black with white tracer. --- Update to the previous post... The new air dog harness for the fuel pump connection has the color wires of tan and black. The company i bought the air dog from (SourceAutomotive) gave me the male connection i needed but the colors on the pig tales are black red.

Ive been off the site for a while due to so many circumstances over the last 3 years as im sure so many of us have. Im hoping some of the older knowledge is still floating around because i may need some help or if nothing else i can document the story a little bit here Back in 2017 i had the transmission rebuilt for the first time by a good friend at a reputable shop with plenty of experience. He did a great job. What was done then- (cause of failure was TC welding itself together and subsequently toasting the rest of the unit while i trying to get it home) billet triple disc, shift kit, GM sensor and governor, replaced one drum (with a good used o…

after engine warms up. getting 1693

Anyone know any tricks to tell if the injection pumps been changed? I can see the mounting bolts have had a wrench on them but can see a bar code tag on the side. Also the lift pump on the block (truck is entirely stock) does not look anything like the one that was on my 2002 when I bought it. It's kind of made with square shapes instead of a hocky Puck shape with, like the Carter with lines coming out the top.????? It's a weird looking lift pump. Anyone have an idea? Could be I'm looking at the wrong thing too! Me like this after buying truck Won't be driving it till it gets big lines and a good lift pump. Need to set it up right Michael …

Well guys,PureFlow sent me a upgraded replacement for my third failed Raptor 100, and before someone asks yes I did have to pay some extra. For me its worth it as hopefully now I have a reliable truck. The last two raptors died on the road and I had to limp the truck home, and one time it cost me a VP-44. Now I have a newly overhauled VP which runs better than any that I have had before and want to keep it that way. That said, just got the AD ll in and running and cannot believe the difference! The old raptor-100 did fine and held a good 21 psi or so but it did not respond like this one does. That said, PF told me that the pump that I have on the truck now is the same on…

So here's the deal. Truck is an 02 with a built auto, 120k miles and edge comp with tapped wire, stock injectors. After tons and tons of reading I decided that upgrading to an hx35 would be better for the truck and just make the truck better overall but I honestly don't know how to feel about it now that I'm doneThe truck makes way more heat on the egt's. Like everywhere but way up high in the rpm range. With the stock injectors and pinned I can only just barely touch 1250 unloaded but this was impossible with my hy. and whereas my hy made a max boost of maybe 20 the hx makes about 37 max psi.whats going on here? I get more heat, less spool up down low. Higher cruising eg…

check this out!! 1,300 hp and 2,140 lb-ft of torque. don't believe me, look for yourself, and that's not even max output!!! http://www.dieselpowermag.com/features/dodge/0808dp_2002_dodge_ram_cummins/index.html