2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Just made a little jaunt with the CTD, about 300 miles each way near all highway. Note: I have stock rubber & 4:10 gears as in my signature. (IMHO, 4:10 ratio is too low unless you're going to put big rubber on it, but I own it now.)At 65.... 2000 rpm... was getting 17.8-17.9. On the way back, I dropped the rpms to 1900 & speed to 60 & mpgs went up to 18.2 With my stock truck, the overhead has always been right on. These are running right foot on the pedal, trying to get mpgs... cruise control does not feather the crest of hills & gets a bit less mpgs in my truck. Russ

MY 5.9 has had a issue starting sometimes, will crank but no start! If i tap the injector pump with a hammer while cranking she starts. I installed a fass 150 over 5 years ago she still shows good fuel PSI while running. Also installed new injector pump at 85000 miles 4 years ago.

Monday I will be changing the oil for the second time since ownership. I know some send off oil samples.. where do you send it? Is there a sample kit to buy? I will be doing the Fass fuel filter and water separator for the first time. First question.. Are all the cross referenced filters on one of the pages I see here respectable replacements? Should I pour some fuel into the filter? Will it be difficult to start the truck? Not sure what to expect....

Started up today to hook up my trailer for the next morning. It was chilly so I left it idle about 5 min. to give the batteries a charge because I knew I would only be moving a short distance. Got under my trailer and got a hiccup. While dropping the trailer on it did it twice again. Pulling up my hill to turn around it did it once under load and was fine after that. I'm hoping it was a fluke and I'll find out tomorrow if it continues, but I'm just wondering what to look for. I'm leaning towards something electrical but would like to hear from others. Truck ran fine the day before.

I just changed out a factory lift pump on a 2001 Cummins to a FASS DDRP. Everything installed tighter, also added a sediment filter in line before the pump. Cycled pressure through and started the truck right now. It goes Immediately to 2500rpms and holds there. Good news is it is showing good pressure at that high rpm, but it is NOT coming down. is there a reset that needs to be performed, or did something get bumped during install? Vehicle is equiped with an Edge JWA tuner. No other mods that i can tell from sight. Thanks!

Been checking my fuel mileage since I installed my 2nd hand motor and running 60-65 been getting 15.2 pretty regiously. (I need to up date my weight on my sig. but anyway I weigh around 11k.) Getting 14 pulling trailer 7k. My best was 16.3 driving 55-58. Now that is stock everything except 5" exhaust and BHAF.Today I put my DDP50hp injectors in and we'll see what it does. I now this eng. is a lot quieter. Next I will put EZ back on. I can say this stock s----

I attempted to change out the crank sensor today. And of course, it broke off. I screwed in a long screw and pried with a pry bar, it moved a short distance, but is wedged in there pretty tight and won't move any further. I'm considering drilling it and removing it in pieces. Input? Any other ideas?

(So confused right now. I can't remember if I asked this question or not. Memory and fuel system not good. I'm going to install shut off valves and install elec fuel pressure gauge. I have an Airdog pump system. Fuel exits the tank by a sump at bottom of the fuel tank then goes to Airdog pump then directly to VP 44. If pump and water filter are below the level of fuel in the tank... I can just open valve on water filter and tank should just drain (slowly) by gravity, right? Thinking about locations of shut off valves... just after sump drain and just after Airdog pump. Does that sound good or is there something bett…

My tubo sounds differant than it did before, and I was wondering how to check it. I did visual checks and pulled the intake tube off. There is a small amount of play in the shaft but I don't know what the specs are. I still have good power and boost but EGT's may be up a little (200 more maybe).

Hey all, So lately I've been wanting to quite my truck down just a bit. I LOVE the sound, but I've had passengers more often lately and it gets a little annoying when trying to hold a conversation. Anyway I found a new MBRP 4" muffler on my local Craigslist for $40 and I made arrangements with the guy to buy it. He said you can see right through it but it does have some flappers or something inside. I'm concerned about my egts coming up some, but I figured for $40 what do I really have to loose? Anyway I was just curious if anyone has any good or bad experiences with MBRP mufflers that they would share with me(good or bad sound, higher egts)? Also, my truck has a ver…

Hey guys im new to this website just signed up last night and it looks awesome so far so ill give er a try! Ok so i adjusted my valves a while ago to .010 and .020 cuz i dont think they have been for a while and the trucks got 225k on it and it seemed to run louder than a couple of other guys trucks i know in the area and a little rougher? So I read some more on how to do i and say you can put them at .008 and .018 so i tryed that and it quieted it right down and seemed to run a lot better then before. Is there something that could be wrong or is this normal for an engine with higher miles?

Hi all. Thanks in advance for your time and wisdom. Second gen 24 valve. Quadzilla tuner. No "wait" light and no grid heater in cold weather, but from the voltage drop I can tell the grid heaters do come on after starting, even if the IAT is reading over 100 degrees (I can see what it's reading through the Quadzilla). Doesn't always come on, but most of the time it does when when the engine is hot. Already replaced the IAT sensor and no change in symptoms. Throttle position sensor (already replaced and no change in symptoms) often forgets itself. Have to turn off, back on, press all the way down and release slowly and start. Then w…

What micron filter do they use at the pump? What ever it is I am sure they don't replace it enough.

Just got a renew email invoice for my high idle switch out of the blue. Why? Sorry that I started new thread for simple question.

Have a 2001 2500 HD Diesel 5.9 Auto Tranny. I have a major A/C leak. Leaked down with in 4 months. Are there any common problems with the A/C's on this type vehicle? I am the original owner. I had freon put in in 2007 and 2009 and Nov 2010. Is there a likely area to look for the problem? Any help will be greatly appreciated.ThanksMohok

Having a new issue.. idling truck runs great very slight haze but nothing new.. take off down the road under low throttle it does great.. than between 20-50%ish throttle I begin to have white smoke pouring out.. under full throttle it’ll clear up to black.. I’m throwing no codes, turbo is rather new and have inspected behind filter and down pipe with no signs of oil.. injectors freshly pop tested, compression test recently has been done. Could injection pump be failing with no codes being thrown? Any other ideas?

Hey guys! I was just throwing this out there for anyone to make a comment on their preference.I have been looking at replacing both batteries and am thinking between interstate and optima. They are both 30 month free replacement batteries. Optima seems cool because of regular battery with abit of deep cycle so you can use it without engine and not have to worry about jump starting or trickle charging. Interstate I have heard is good also but where I work we have had issues with them from time to time. Let me know what you guys think!Thanks!

Hey folks, I am new to this site and new to diesels. I recently bought a 99 dodge 2500 24v auto transmission. Truck ran good for a few days then the wait to start light started flashing. Truck would crank but would not start. Had it diagnosed and they said it was the ecm. Sent the ecm off to be rebuilt and they call me and said the ecm tested good and was plugged into their 99 and started the truck perfectly. I got the ecm back and replaced all my battery terminals and my truck started and ran great for about two weeks. Then the wait to start light started flashing again. Im back to the truck cranking and not starting. I have read all kinds of stuff and done all sorts of …

I want to begin to upgrade my fuel system, truck is stock for the most part (see sig) but does have a FASS ddrp lift pump. What I'd like to do is relocate the pump to the frame near the tank with a relocation kit and run a big line kit from the tank to pump, pump to filter housing and then filter to VP44. Can I do this in steps? Such as filter to VP first, then relocate pump and run the rest of the big lines at that time? Or should I just accumulate the parts and do it all at once? Will I also need a draw straw with this setup? Also, will the larger lines decrease pressure? I'm not a fluid expert but I would think larger lines would increase volume but possibly lower over…

I'm talking about the line on the rear of the cylinder head. I was under there fir something else yesterday and noticed it's wet on the back of the engine and down the bell housing. A small drip was handing on the bottom of the bell housing. It was fuel. Could see the light green color. I took my phone and tried to get a pic behind the head (it's tight back there) and it looks wet. Can't tell if it's just the copper washers leaking or if it's the line itself. So far its a small leak, just a drip. Could this cause a slight hard start issue? I noticed yesterday morning she seemed to start a bit harder than normal. (Temp was low/mid 40's) Thinking of just…