2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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I'm working on the truck in my sig. After installing all my upgrades last fall (pac brake, hx 35/40, 100 hp injectors, quad unit), I haven't been able to get over about 25lbs of boost even with the set screw in the boost elbow turned all the way in. Today I put a vice grip on the hose and saw a bit over 30ps of boost on a full throttle acceleration. Where in the adj process do I check the actual wastegate actuator setting/position? Its possible correct, to maybe need to adjust the length of the actuator rod? Also, I bought the manual boost controller shown by Mike in another post and have yet to install it. Mike, the red end goes towards the elbow correct?
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I know there are a lot of guys out here that love their oversized tires and I will admit they look super cool. Now to make it all come together and make it a rocket ship on rails you need the proper final ratio. Optimal for most daily drivers that are here optimal final ratio to the ground is 3.73:1 after the tires. The problem is any size larger than a factory 265's on 3.55 gears is going to lower the ratio. I created a chart of the final ratio with some tire sizes to see the results. Subscribing members only...
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I picked up a nv4500 for a great price but the guy kept the square to top cover and trans came with a early style with the intergrated shifter stub, my question is can the internals out of the top be swaped in to a square top
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I'm having some issues with my 02. Lately I've had no low boost fueling. It's a 02 built auto with a edge comp and 50hp injectors. The fuel pressure is good and the only codes I'm getting are 0622 and 1765. You can feel the edge changing power levels, and there is little to no smoke at wot or wot from a stop. Also about a month ago everytime I drop it in gear it will stall unless I let it warm up for 10+ minutes. Any help would be much appreciate. Thank you.
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So I've been testing Lucille out and seeing what's what, and I noticed according to qz my boost maxes out at 22psi. This is with stock sized injectors. I know the turbo is probably too big for my engine, but I was curious what rpm a proper turbo should start spooling on a 24v? Mine starts to come on at about 2200rpm,and I reach fuel cut off before it spools more. Aside from replacing the turbo completely, is there a way around this at all? I do plan on reinstalling my 150hp injectors, and I want about 700hp in the end. If I can get away with keeping my current turbo that would be cheaper. But I'm open to suggestions. Kinda want to stay single turbo for ease of cost.
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I’m having intermittent issues and not sure where to begin. First with what I know. After starting the truck, within a couple minutes, the tach becomes intermittent. It works, then won’t, so on and so on. While driving, it will stumble. Not all the time, and when it does, it does it like 2 or 3 times in a row. It seems like as soon as it’s at operating temperature, it runs fine. If it sits for a couple hours, it runs fine. In the past month, it’s shut off on me 3 times while driving. After it shuts off, it will crank but won’t fire. After it sits a minute or two, it fires and runs fine. Temperatures were in the teens when it happened, not sure if there…
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So here lately it's been getting colder and things have been working just fine. WTS light comes on, then off and she fires up just fine until....... When getting ready to leave work a few days ago I went to start her up.lile always but when I hit the key she didn't fire right away like normal. It hit one 1 or 2 cylinders and began to chug and huff smoke like mad. It caught me off gard so I immediately shut her dow to evaluate the situation. I listened for the lift pump, it's working, but I noticed the voltage gauge wasn't dipping like it should with the draw if the grid heaters. So I then cranked her over and let it run, it fired on a few cylinders again and after a…
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I bought a 1998 Dodge ram 3500 with a 24 valve Cummins manual transmission 4x4 the problem is the ABS light flashes the entire time as soon as you turn the key on the wait to start takes a second to come on about 10 to 30 seconds when it does come on, it only comes on for about 3 seconds and then you hear the pump come on for maybe 2 seconds it is a aftermarket air dog pump it fires right up every time but my RPM gauge falls to zero after 10 seconds it has no loss of power or anything unusual after it falls to zero changed the crank sensor and checked all wiring and it is fine the PCM has been repaired and it will do this every time I can turn it off and turn it back on a…
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So Ive been looking at a truck my little brother's friend owns, it's a 2000 with a "built" 47re, and according to him he recently blew the transmission, but the tranny isn't that old and he said, "It will not go forward, it will sometimes but only to 25mph and reverse works." To me this doesnt sound blown but correct me if I'm wrong. I'm not versed in automatic transmissions so I'm in the dark here and anything helps. Thanks!
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I have not started nor driven my truck for about 6 months. She started right up but the exhaust brake in not working. I have suspicions that our dumbassed cat which has been crawling up into the engine compartment may have something to do with it. I think I have some ideas on where to start troubleshooting but it never hurts to get as much information and advice as possible before hand. Does anyone have any comments or suggestions on solving this problem. Thank!
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What are these rubber grommets that came with the new Fel-Pro gasket for the tappet cover? Existing bolts only have a sealing washer?
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For the unlucky few who may have a dud air dog or fass laying around, (as in bad motor or wore out pump)... re-use just the filter/air separation part as part of a belt driven system? Seems like everything is self contained/sourced. your water/air separation, regulator.... just remove the motor and gut the pump, block off/seal and presto? (ok, would have to move it downstream of the belt driven pump).. I've bled out my eyes reading hundreds of posts over on CF about the dtt guy promising a cheap diy 'kit'.... which eventually ended up as his ' COMPLETE' setup. He drew me in with 'che…
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(This is a project only at this time and 2nd on list) Last week neighbor asked me to give her kids car a battery jump at local grocery store. Had to use wifes CRV as my dash still out of my 01. When I arrived I couldn't get near enough to jump battery. As I'm sitting there waiting for somebody to move their car. I'm thinking I need longer and better jumper cables. Project is... I'm thinking 2/0 welding cable has would cover the project of about 25 feet. From right side battery and underneath to back bumper. Once at back bumper going to use "Anderson SB 50 amp" connector. ( Like elec forklifts use). Then about 10 foot jumper cables. And also go…
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Cant find the torque on the inj. bodies. I am talking about the torque on the bodies there self. I cleaned and now putting back together.
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First time ever taking the head off a motor since I'm doing my second motor swap on my new-to-me 99. I bought another motor for it, as some may know, when I bought the truck it came with an 02 motor and that wont work and I ended up stumbling into this deal for a 99 but the kid took the head off to check it for cracks so the bolts aren't necessarily tight, but is there a certain way they need to come out?? Also does the head necessarily need decked? The kid I bought it from said it wasnt cracked and I will check it for my self when I put a new head gasket in it but does it need to be decked really?? Anything helps, thanks! TL;DR: I know the bolts go in a certa…
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Will a denso alternator fit if my original is a bosch, i.e. are the connectors and mounts the same? I was trying to replace the brushes today with Gould's brush/bearing kit, and the rotor seized on my somehow, and now need new alternator. Thanks.
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I am thinking about adding an Eaton True Trac to my Dana 80 rear axle with 3.54's. I have gotten by with open differentials for almost 17 years on this truck but have gotten stuck bad only once. I have noticed on MANY occasions that my truck has almost ZERO traction on level ground on grass and inspite of my best efforts NOT to spine a tire almost always do. Yesterday while checking on a forestry unit I had to drive up a very steep access road which was little more than a smoothed up logging road. I made it to the top but I could feel the tires slipping here and there while in 4WD. Has anyone here had an Eaton or similar True Trac differential installed in their truc…
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