2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok, I my original transmission finally went out. So I replaced it with a Certified Transmission, the Road Ripper 2000. The uninstall and install of the new transmission went great. It shifts great and everything. The problem I am having is, I believe it is going into lock up too soon. When I am empty, and take off from a stop gentle, and gradually ease up to speed, sometimes it will lock up at 40 mph, which is no problem, but it dosent act like it wants to unlock when I give it a lot of gas. I have to put the pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there for about two seconds before it will finally unlock and I will have power. It unlocks fine when coming to a stop…

So I scored a vgt turbo off a 6.7 that hopefully will perform better than my current turbo(it's too big for the truck, and requires waaaaaaaaaaay too much fuel and timing to light off before 2500 rpm) but I need an adapter to bolt it to my current setup. What adapter will I need? I've been trying to find one but no dice. And yes, I have a computer to run the vgt. If anyone is interested I can possibly point you to the gentleman who made the computer kit(you have to solder it but it's not hard) and how to set it up.

So along with re building my trans and t-case it was obvious that I needed to check to clutch out for wear and all that good stuff. So I did just that today. Snapped some pics to show yall. I have never had a sintered iron or competition clutch so I hope yall have some input.

Cracked 47re case, internals are good. Will a 47rh case work if we modify the plug to accept the new plug instead of the old 3 prong?

turn on my heater an the A/C is still runningany suggestion

Thought I saw people selling stuff on here. 2nd gen air box actually... I can't find classified section...any help? Thanks

I'm having trouble removing the back 3 injector lines. Not from the head but the brackets holding them down on the deck. Do I need to remove the engine lift bracket to do this, because those bolts wont budge. Where exactly are these bolts located that hold down these lines? Thanks

How much would a nv5600 2wd with 170k be worth?

Ecm went bad and I bought a used one from a guy thinking that any or all ecms can be used. My truck is a 2001 6 speed and when I went to the dealer to have them flash the new one they're saying it's from a 1998. Stupid me I didnt ask what year truck it came off of when I bought it. So the technican tells me I need a 2000 or newer ecm and that there's no need to flash anything it will work. I've spent alot of time reading about this issue and that's the first I've heard that. So I guess my question is what years work with what and does auto/manual tranny make a difference. Thanks for any help.

Needed new injectors recently so I went with a good company, they didn't disappoint. Ordered 75hp 7x.0085 vco like I've been wanting and after I got the new ones in they are great, even though the test drive was short. Got home to fill out the core return and realized I was upgraded! just wanted to say thanks @dieselautopower for the parts, I'll be happy to keep doing business with y'all.

I have been dealing with brake and ABS lights on all the time from key on to key off. I have also been suffering from "irregular" / "unpredictible" pedal feel. Sometimes pedal feels fine other times it goes to the floor. Braking power is still there however. So I got a hair up my butt today and started probing wires. Tested the rear ABS sensor, 1.8 k resistance, which is within spec for the sensor. While I was under there I unplugged the Sensor on the proportioning valve and BAM no more lights. So what does that sensor do? and why does the ABS computer throw a hissy fit when it is plugged in? I am assuming it is tellin…

Are there any long term effects of using Bio fuel in my 99 24 valve?

Shouldn't the TC unlock when you take your foot off the accelerator pedal? While at a steady speed above 48 mph and TC locked, when I let the engine go to idle (or try to) my TC is staying locked unless I tap on the brakes fairly hard. I do have a modified VB and 3disc converter but I don't think that should matter, right?

Looking at some Bosch 0 432 193 635 injectors. They are in what appear to be Bosch boxes and sealed in yellow plastic bags. The numbers are stenciled (inked) on them. They are packed individually. Are the numbers supposed to be engraved or inked on these?. I am attaching 3 pictures.

wondering if anybody has had this problem. just bought an 01 6 spd 24v good shape but was told it needed an injector pump or an ecm. 1689 was only code at sellers house but ran and drove fine so i thought maybe the guy didnt know what he was talkin about.. ok so paid him , drove it home with engine light on.. no problems..got home, erased code still ran fine..a couple days later 1st start up engine light came on, rpms shot up to around 2k for a couple secs then came down to 900 rpms ,,, idles fine but throttle cuts out at about 1500 rpms..havent checked fuel pressure yet at pump but it has a holley pump on frame rail so im hopin its good ..so far i have went through the 1…

Anyone using a smart lock on their automatic transmissions?I do a fair amount of off roading for hunting and camping. I've got an awesome torque converter, but if it won't stay locked up you get very little engine braking. I am wondering, since an exhaust brake pretty much needs a smart lock, why not add a smart lock as a partial solution towards a complete exhaust brake system? Do you see any issues to doing this? Is it hard on the transmission. My Trans is stock. How do these smart locks work in combination to an upgraded valve body?

So I have 2 nv4500's and the plan was to run both of them into the ground & get the cryogenically treated ones. But for the same cost I could get a g56? But Idk anything about the swap. Any chance y'all have a thorough write up? / what might I I need to do it? Edit found info but I think I'll just wait. Just exploring options my u bad can delete this thread.

I have a few extra parts laying around after upgrading my truck. I was wanting to know how much the stuff would be worth. Some of the parts are 5 speed flywheel, Hx35, 4" downpipe for Hx35, Stock lift pump, MK-10 aftermarket filter, Manifold not cracked(Missing 2 studs as I used them for new manifold), Intake horn, Intake plate, Connector tubes, BD boost fooler. I think there is maybe 1 or so more parts I'm forgetting that I have replaced.

While my VP is out for repair im resealing left side of block. The old mounting bracket for the stock lift pump is in the way of removing push rod cover and it has a seal back there id like to replace. Am told there is a cap/plug like on old chevy fuel pump where you can cap it off. Not having any luck finding this. Anyone done this and know where I can locate? FOUND IT, LOOK NO FARTHER THAN DAP

Recently I purchased a mopar1973man High idle kit for my truck. I must say I'm pretty pleased with the design and all! Id like to say thank you to @Mopar1973Man and @Me78569 for their time and investment to produce the switches. I do have a couple questions... 1. Apparently there is a delay from when you switch to high idle till the time it actually starts to high idle? 2. When switching from Off position to MPG position my truck engine skipped a beat and did a pretty good miss. Is this normal? Heres a few side notes. The only good place I could find to route the harness thru the firewall was thru the hole that the hood latch cable goes thru. But the switch would not f…