2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I got my turbo bearings replaced and manifold bolts for exhaust side replaced too. now I have been seeing a drop of RPMs no when in park it was always right around 850 RPMs before now they have been going down to 830 and now down to 810 and 800 when just sitting in park. is this normal or is the vp44 going out now

Been haveing problems for a long time. The eng. surges eradict but only slightly. When at hwy speed say 65 you let off and rmp get to about 1500 then put it in nuteral rpm drop quick to about 700 then pick back up,if A/C is on it almost dies. No white smoke no black smoke fuel mileage is normal. And when you rev up the eng. then it starts droping it has a little rev up right before idle. I here common rail motors do this, why would a vp motor do this. I changed the inj. to 75 hp and it started this so I had rv 275's rebuilt and put them back in and still the same no change.I dont no if this means anything but rpm gauge bounces a little at idle. Also I loosen inj. lines so…

So I read this article and would like some input before I spend $40 for a genuine Bosch replacement: https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/59_fuel/bosch-vp44-injection-pump-overflow-valve-r19/ Symptoms At idle in park I maintain a steady ~18 PSI. Driving it can drop to ~11 PSI, but sometimes rises to nearly 20, doesn't seem to be directly load related - sometimes it is low going up a hill like the filters are plugged, but then sometimes the pressure is HIGHER going up hill (gentle rollers). This can be within a couple miles, steady interstate travel. Some times on LONG, flat interstate…

My fuel pressure sporadically changes and considering all the prior investigating I have done, I am wondering if a weak Overflow Valve could be the culprit, or if the ECM is commanding full flow. Seems my fuel pressure will go up a little AFTER a long pull, like maybe the VP44 senses its brain is getting hot and needs more flow to help cool it. My fuel pressure sensor is at the inlet of the VP44, which is equipped with a big, long-sweep Vulcan-supplied fitting, not a banjo bolt. I see the procedure for testing the Overflow Valve regulator is on page 14-84 of the manual (1618 of 2939 in the PDF) and seems pretty easy. Has anyone found this item to be a pr…

Good evening guys! I went to go start my truck this morning it was about -4*C and it just cranked and cranked and cranked. Plugged in a code reader and got the code P0253 and the tpyical overboost code from the edge comp. Once the codes cleared, i turned the key back off, waited a couple few minutes, then attempted to start the truck again, started right away like nothing happened. let it idle for a couple minutes then hit the exhaust brake and let it idle for about 10 minutes, then shut it off and carried on my day driving my other truck as i had to be at the airport to leave for work. Side note, it would have very seldomly like once a month if that for the past 3 or…

I put a poll in CF, so I could get maximum response about our VP44s. Any ways a subscriber from Texas made this claim: "Hey give it a try. I am going to keep using the stock pumps though. They have worked for me so far! I have changed it out like 4 times now. But I just changed it when they quit filling the filter housing up during fuel filter changes. I need to get a gauge though." :rolleyes: So go to the poll and see if cold weather has any correlation because of poor fuel delivery, and the condensation that goes with it. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/239995-vp44-failures-north-vs-south.html

Ok first of let me vent here a second... (You've been warned!) I got a phone call from a gent this evening upset at his truck because of hard starting and P1689 error code randomily coming. He admits he's got a Raptor fuel pump, Edge Juice and 100 HP injectors. That fine... But the admits he's selling it because he's tired of all the VP44 failures and problem. WHOA! Stop the train... This is where I'm getting really tired of people giving the VP44 a bad name now pay attention. Now I asked him of his source of fuel. His response is he's running red dye fuel from a farm tank because its free. Then ask him of the the fuel filter he's running. His respons…

Ok. I see you guys say 20-15 psi on fuel pressure is good. I got some gauges and it reads 10psi at idel and 5-6psi WOT. I thought maby I hooked up the gauge wrong and so I did it again and I am sure its right. Now what do I need to do. Truck never studders and starts good hot or cold. Truck runs good really if I did not have gauges I would not be able to tell the difference. I dont want to run the VP low on fuel since that all that lubs it. What should I do?

I dont want to railroad an awesome thread but I'd like to touch on the topic of fuel cooling via a fuel cooler of some sort. I just have this crazy premonition that there needs to be a fuel cooler on these trucks. Given what I recently experienced while towing a very large trailer in 100*+ weather uphill with the engine at 215*-220* and having the throttle do something unexpectedly weird, excessive fuel temps or just plain excessively hot PSG is becoming very likely the culprit of what happened. I'm going to be digging into this topic really heavily and searching for an optimal small radiator to mount somewhere under or in front of the truck. Possibly with a fan as…

Hello. My truck died suddenly and now it's only cranking. Got a P1688 code and looks like vp44 computer is toasted. I found a company which repairs vp44 psgs. Now I'm wondering do I have to cut the wires if I remove psg from top of the vp or can I take the solenoid apart from the distributor end? Thanks and Greetings from Finland!

Does anyone have the dimensions for the VP44 gear puller? I want to make one for almost free rather than paying $40 + for one.

Hey does anyone know what the little t style valve is below the vp44 pump? 01 24 valve auto...it’s just a little brass t style

2001 cummins 24v 5 speed I’ve swapped into a 97 single cab short bed Dodge Ram ss/t i eliminated the harness at the 2 off-engine plugs and ran acc power through relay to give ecm power to run. I recently have purchased a edge comp box and tapped pump wire but engine makes no difference in power with pump tap wire plugged in or unplugged from box. Now here’s the real issue. I can’t remember the exact code off hand but it was a code for a pump solenoid and I believe it’s the pump metering solenoid the comp box taps into. What might be my issue here? I’m new to the forum as well.

So I have been having some surging issues under light pedal. It will consistently do this on any program I have on my quadzila, but no issues when turned to factory? I just installed a timbo apps and when I had cover off there is a sticker on the VP44 stating remanufactured. I bought the pickup 4 years ago from original owner and he never mentioned that the injection pump was ever replaced. Did they come from the factory remanufactured? Just seeing if anyone has seen this sticker on a pump from the factory

My truck has the original IP I have purchased a new or rebuilt 44 from Industrial injection it has new electrical. My question is what improvements have they made to these?

Strapped for cash so I pulled a VP44 off a spare engine. It is a Magnum 24-4015. But when I spin the shaft it sounds like a ball bearing clicking. Kind of like a valve opening and closing when it hits each injector line port. It's been rebuilt at sometime because the pump is much cleaner than the engine is. Not sure if that is normal or if it shouldn't make any noises when spun over. Also would it be worth while to send it out to be bench tested.

So...need honest answers. What's the worst case scenario if a rear mounting bracket isn't used for the vp44. I've heard of guys who had 200plus or more not notice until the vp44 change. I honestly dont feel like pulling the steering pump and try to easy out a broken bolt out of the block. Had anyone heard of anything go catastrophically wrong if there is no rear mount?

Anybody here have any tricks to getting the VP44 out of the back of the case? Trying to get the pushrod cover gasket replaced. I have removed everything including the nut and lock washer on the end of the pump shaft and 4 nuts on the pump. TDC is set but that o ring is being a mother! I don’t really want to beat on it to get it out, and prying does little but separate it just a hair on the lower driver side (Only place I can get some leverage). Truck has almost 300k on the Odo, but the pump has been replaced at least once. That O ring in there is really on there good. Any ideas?

If they are not on the Michal's list all ready Gillett Diesel Service Inc. 14812 South Heritagecrest Way Bluffdale, UT 84065 http://www.gillettdiesel.com/vp44injectionpump.aspx Exchange ONLY NO Bosch 815 test bench on site and Orange County Diesel, Inc. 17242 Gothard Street, A and B Huntington Beach, CA 92647 http://www.ocdiesel.com/ Exchange ONLY NO Bosch 815 test bench on site

Ok, I know things can cascade, now I'm wondering what all sensors I SHOULD replace. Started with a replaced VP, was running rough and lots of white smoke.... so replaced with remanufactured Injectors and new tubes... still white smoke but was improving. Scanned for pending codes and nothing showed up. Took for a test drive the smoke cleared up A LOT but still loss of power going into 3rd gear and again going into 4th gear... and then it just shut down on me with a code of P0112... fired right back up and got it home with the same power loss on gear changes. Can an IAT shut the engine down? Should I replace any other sensors? I replaced the IAT, MAP and C…