2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

For about the last month or so, sometimes when I start my truck, it will idle at 1200-1300 RPM, and it just hangs there, never tones down. (no high idle switch on my truck) Other times it idles at 800-850. I've done the APPS reset a few times, it will help for a few days. Then it's back to high idle once and a while. Month ago I had auto zone scan my truck, no codes. Yesterday coming home from the other side of the state, coming down the mountain into Denver, truck started running funny, pedal was not responding. I would mash the throttle and RPM would jump up like the clutch was slipping, but truck was not increasing in speed. Few mi…

I have a 1999 24 valve cummins I just replaced the turbo but that didn't help but my problem is I'm losing power when I accelerate and I bbn low black smoke and my exhaust temp gauge is around 12 when I go up hill inclines or anytime I need power. I could really use some help.

Full of aluminum, rear seal is leaking so I figure it could have something to do with tail shaft. I bought this trans from All State Gear in San Antonio Tx and it was not a good experience. I am willing to spend the bucks and get a really good trans build. Any suggestions?

I'm not sure why one would use this over an air removing AirDog or FASS, but for an ELECTRIC pump has anyone heard of using a Holley Dominator? Only some sizes (100 and 200 GPH) are Diesel compatible, for some reason unknown to me. I think if I was looking for a frame mounted, non-air removing lift pump, I would choose this and the external regulator over the DRP (which I have) or Raptor 100. Anyway, this post is just for bench racing, if you will. Love to hear other's thoughts. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-1800

I have my SMARTY and will be in the Denver area for about 3 hours around 4 til 6 ish today. If you want the high idle feature, call me. (719)68O-O171

So I was on here a little while back on the topic of swapping a 98.5 motor in an 02 truck and with all the headache surrounding it i had found a good deal on an 01 with low miles and was just curious if it just needed a map sensor adapter to work and if they were a direct swap unlike the older engines with the crank sensor

Not sure if I'm going to go quad or Edge but if ones comes up for sale used is it a gamble how much life is left in them? Thanks

If I unplug the high idle harness and plug the factory wiring into the sensors I do not get any codes, plug/hook up the high idle harness I get P0112 INTAKE AIR TEMP VOLTAGE LOW & P1693 DCT DELETEDIN COMPANION JTEC MODULE. Any ideas?

Need help! Can't get it bump since I was last poster...Mike, delete this for me when appropriate, please and thank you!

Been looking at lockers for the rear diff ever since the Goerend triple disc and accompanying full beef up to the trans. I'm open diff now, no LSD. I live in the dirty south where snow is an oddity. Looking mainly from a performance traction standpoint. The tranny grips hard and the rear is about 350 lbs lighter than it was before. It is fairly easy to break one rear tire loose without trying. Truck is not a daily driver...is only used for fun and for pulling a light boat (2k lbs). So don't care about towing manners or too much about quirky road manners. Just looking to put power through both rears to decrease slippage...and maybe a little mo…

Looking at picking up a used tuner. I notice some tuners are year specific for 24v. I’m trying to figure out if the edge comp is or isn’t year specific from 98.5-02?

So as it says, more weirdo readings on my quadzilla. The temperature was going up to 204°, then would go to -40,then back to 204. I figured my cts was junk, so I replaced it. Didn't pay much attention to it these three hell filled weeks with it. Well, I drove home to NM from North Dakota yesterday, and noticed it was still doing the same thing. Up to 204,then -40. Then back to 204. Is this normal? Or?

Recently purchased a 2002 ho truck and got a good deal because the motor isn’t happy ( knocking and crazy blow by). To solve this problem I’ve purchased a 2000 model engine. Forgive me I am learning these 24s I’m used to 12 valves. I know now that there’s the two sub generations 98.5-00 and 01-02 and they don’t interchange very well. My main question is am I going to run into problems with the swap even with swapping the pcm/ecm/ engine harness ? Got a steal of the 2000 engine everything for 800$ so I really want to make this work .

Good morning been fighting with my truck for sometime it’s all manual no electric locks, windows, cruise etc. ive had the truck a few years now don’t drive often but when I get ready to it’s a flip of a coin on my gauges I’ve tested the cluster it’s good I went through grounds a while back while Also changing cam sensor and checking others. Problem was gone for six months but once again has returned I’ve searched forums for a while and can’t seem to find anyone with these issues seems like I remember a code 1698 haven’t got to check alternator yet but it’s on the list any other ideas or suggestions?

Are they both controlled by the pcm? What about the pwr mirrors?

What’s up guys? I’m at a loss and like most people, I need to try and get this figured out ASAP. Trucks a 2000 auto. About a month ago went to fire the truck up and check engine light was on and would just crank. Wouldn’t start, just crank. Felt like it was cranking as it (batteries didn’t seem low). I posted something on a different websites and was told to check the batteries and charge them. I did that and truck fired up and check engine light went off. Flew home today for work and went to start my truck at the airport and the same thing happened. Well I purchased a cheap $30 scanner to keep in the truck. It said there was a code being thrown but it wouldn’t tell me wh…

So I'm building my nv4500 finely but am courious what sealer works best for the tail housing and the top cover and input shaft housing

I've been fighting a blend door issue where if you turned the temperature up to warm up the cab and later want to turn it to a cooler setting the door wouldn't move. You had to turn it up hotter and then quickly down lower and it would start to cool down. Now Being I've never done a heater treater yet I was thinking the shaft broke and hanging it up. I grabbed Mark and asked him for an offset Phillips driver. With little patience, I managed to remove the two Phillips screws and removed the stepper motor for the blend door. I was shocked my shaft coupler was still going strong. Then I popped open the steeper motor lubed the gears with …

I just received my high idle switch kit. I'm trying to figure out how to install. I have an ejwa currently installed. How do I need to connect the high idle harness to the jwa? Thanks for any help! Jason 1999 24v

Today it is cool out and my 2000 3500 is going almost to red on accel. And the quadzilla reads fine till 204 then reads -40. Anyone else have this issue?